Dual subwoofers... split RCA pre-outs?

[Cantedvalve 128]

I am looking into getting a pair of Kenwood KSC-SW11 powered subwoofers.  The things are tiny... definitely will fit under the front seats.  I have a set of pre-outs on my head unit for subwoofers... I just cant decide how to split them.  There is a left and right RCA pre-out.  The subwoofer units have left and right RCA inputs.  Should I run left to left and split it into both the left and right channels on the left sub, and right to right and split it into both the left and right channels on the right sub?  Or split both channels and run both channels to each unit?  I don't know if it means a hill of beans difference, but I thought I would ask just in case.

[Cantedvalve 128]

Okay, I decided to go with RCA splitter cables and do one unit left and one right instead of what I was told would be a mono configuration.  In the end it may not make a hill of beans difference, but I'm gonna try it... mainly because it is less wire.

[danno 128]

I think you chose the best method. Split the left pre out into two signals, and feed them into the L and R of the speaker under the drivers seat.  The same for the passengers side and the right pre amp out to subwoofer.  I wonder how speakers under the seat are going to work? 

[Cantedvalve 128]

Obviously, these aren't the only speakers.  I have a pair of 3.5" speakers in the stock dash location, and a pair of 6x9 in the back.  Also contemplating kick panel units... but probably not unless what I have really sucks... which it shouldn't.

[RPM 1,190]

It should sound real good CV. I've got a 10" sub in the trunk, 2 6x9's in the trap door, 2 6" round and 2" tweeters in the lower front doors and it really kicks arse. Although during my recent trip to Florida and back I listened mostly to the 393 stroker under the hood :)

[Cantedvalve 128]

Yeah... can't go wrong with the dulcet tones of Ford horsepower!

[Cantedvalve 128]

So the subs showed up today.  I was off for a carpet cleaning in the basement (floods tend to require that after everything is dried out), and I happened to be home to get them.  Initial reactions...

• these things will DEFINITELY fit under my stock seats without platform mods
• everything you need is in the box. Even speaker level to RCA adapters should you be using/splicing into stock wiring
• wiring harness is awesome... but will get modified so I can run one set of power lines to the rear instead of two
• Not terribly sold on the idea of a remote for the sub.  I know I can choose not use it, but it will default to some sort of settings, and probably not the ones I want.  Worse... I have TWO remotes with 2 subs.

It's in my to-do list now. Looking forward to it!

[Vicfreg 773]

How many amps do the powered subs draw?    I assume you can use a head unit "turn on" to power up the subs, so they are not "on" all the time.  I typically use the power antenna feed from the head unit for that.

 

[Cantedvalve 128]

Each sub is 10A, so not as much as you might think.

Yeah, there is the "blue wire" method... it switches the amp/subs on, but doesn't power them per se.  They have their own power circuits.  So each component gets blue switching, red (or yellow in my case) 12V+, and black ground... and then the line level inputs via RCA.  The amp and subs I am using though also can do input sensing... so they turn on when they think they see input from the stereo.

I'll be going with the blue wire method.  I like the certainty.

PS: technically I wasn't wrong about the subs fitting under the front seats... they would, but I'd have to ditch the return springs (which are missing anyway) and the link that connects the two rails together.  In light of that, I will be channeling the seat platform for clearance.

[Vicfreg 773]

Oh, 10 amps is good, and so is the input sensing.  My amp will pull 60 amps, and I will bridge 2 of the outputs to feed one Sub, and parallel the other 4 speakers from the front 2 feeds.