Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
prayers1

Have Questions on Engine Leak Down Test

Recommended Posts

Mach1Rider

 

Yes, he did what you suggested in post #25, good call.  He did mention that the other shop messed up on the guide work. IIRC, something like you can still see the drill or bolt mark and one side you don't.

 

The heads were rebuilt by someone else, I just changed the factory valves to SS single groove Valve Stems, new double springs and Scorpion 1.73 Pedestal Roller Rockers.

 

Not checked to Rocker to Stem pattern.

 

Nice to see your still around, how's life in the country at the new place!

Good to see the valves were changed, But not checking the stem to rocker pattern is a problem in my view.

Placing shims under rockers are a poor choice for lifter preloading. That is why I went to studs and guides in my build.

 

Life is good in the woods here, started working on building the 2400 sq ft house this month.  Retirement is hard work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rather than spend all that money on a new Windsor build, I would buy a set of decent aftermarket Cleveland heads so it will run like a stroked Windsor. Clevelands can be very streetable engines with aftermarket heads that get some velocity into the ports.

 

If you have no engine at all, I would lean Windsor, but since you have so much usable Cleveland, I would just buy new heads and have fun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

He took the #2 exhaust valve out and lapped it.  He found that one side of the valve was barley touching the seat, the valve was not bent, but can see into the guide that one side did not having any wear, the valve was riding on an angle.

 

Further inspection found that the valve stem tip witness mark was wearing towards the edge, as if the roller tip was on an angle and had developed a very tiny mushroom on the edge.

 

As for now he's going to take both heads apart do whatever it needs to be done to fix it.

 

I do not know what the future holds for this Cleveland.  I learned that it will not do me well as a street engine but well enough if raced, where I can keep the rpms high all the time.

 

He suggested for me to build a Windsor based roller type block, stroked to a 393 or 408, using AFR 205cc heads and an Edelbrock  RPM Performer with a 2800-3000 stall converter.

 

Whats your say!

 

ok, you do not have hardened valve tips . if you reuse those valves, the tip needs to be surfaced and i would consider running lash caps.

 

it is irrelevant where the rocker runs on the valve . what is important is that it makes the narrowest pattern on the tip of the valve . this will be one way to determine good rocker arm geometry.

 

there is absolutely zero benefit to running a roller block . if you do, check the cam tunnel for cracks in the journals.

 

 

.

.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have found 351C to be as street-able as any until you try to pull big HP numbers than things get a little tricky. 

Had one with a RV cam and small carb. that would pull 3rd gear starts without effort but would only rev to 4700

Good for the wife and children.

 

I think P1 has a little more Vulcan mind melting before he knows where he is going with this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...