Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted June 18, 2016 Need some help. Started my Mach today after installing new fan and shroud, when I went to turn off the ignition, car kept running. I tapped the top of the starter solenoid and it shut off. I did this because of issues I've had since getting the car, starter not engaging (popping out) onto flywheel. Problem, car now turns over, starts to fire, but as soon as you would normally disengage ign switch it will not stay running. If you leave ign engaged and depress on gas pedal, engine revs up. Replaced solinoid with a new one, get same results. Car doesn't have the instrument cluster in, but didn't earlier today when it started. Plug for tach has power when ign turned on, both side of circuits at fuse panel have power with ign on, except the smallest fuse for instr light?, either side. Should batt side of coil have power with ign on, does not currently. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted June 18, 2016 The starter solonoid is sticking inside ,the after markets will do this .If you can find an older original that works it will solve the problem .The new ones fuse the contacts ,probably because of cheep materials they used . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted June 18, 2016 Now is the starter staying ingauged or does it just keep the motor running?the alternator may be feeding back if the motor keeps running Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted June 18, 2016 Starter only stays engaged when ign is turned to right all the way, disengages when ign is at on position. Since I got car together, and running, some time when starting, motor would turn over then starter would come of flywheel and starter motor just spin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted June 18, 2016 If it is the soilinode causing the issue, might explain why there were 2 more in the boxes of parts that came with car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted June 18, 2016 Shouldn't batt side of coil have power when ign in on position Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted June 19, 2016 Shouldn't batt side of coil have power when ign in on position Yes, 12v when cranking and around 5.7v when in the "run/on" position. See the attached Word file. Hope that helps. ignition circuit.doc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted June 19, 2016 Resistor wire in diagram......would this be the one in the harness going to tach plug/harness? Also into engine compartment out of firewall, that connects to harness for cool, temp, oil send unit? Would the violet resistor wire in dash that I found cut and capped be playing a part in m issue? Harness in car is factory, so far it is all in tac, only wire I have found to be altered/cut has been the violet wire Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted June 19, 2016 If I turn the ign switch to the on position, shouldn't the S wire(red with blue stripe) have 12 volts? Currently it does not, so issue might be the switch itself? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted June 19, 2016 S wire will only have 12V when key is in CRANK, not RUN. It's the signal for the starter solenoid to send voltage to the starter motor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted June 19, 2016 So brown I wire, power with key in on position? But if I don't have power now to coil when ign is in the "on position" now, prob an ign switch or in dash wiring issue correct Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted June 19, 2016 My attachment is a schematic and is intended to show how it works, not how it is wired, as in a wire diagram. On a car with a tach: Ignition Switch C- wire 16 pink goes to a two terminal plug that goes to the tach, power goes through the tach and back to the plug and out through wire 16A pink, to a three terminal plug, and out the other side to wire 16 pink which goes to the coil. It sounds like the tach circuit is open (burned-up or disconnected). Disconnect the tach if not already and put a jumper wire in the plug (on the car side, not the tach side) from wire 16 pink to wire 16A pink. That should complete the circuit and get the engine running again. I don't have a tach and the wire diagram is on a different page so I always forget the tach is in series with the ignition circuit. In most modern cars the tach is not placed in series with the coil as it is here, instead they are in parallel and can be disconnected and not affect the operation of the car. Since yours is in series, if it is disconnected or gets fried the engine won't run- its an open circuit. Let us know if that works. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted June 19, 2016 Installed instrument panel, connected tach........Houston we have ignition. Thanks guys for the help and patience with my ignorant questions Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted June 19, 2016 FYI, when key on, "I" at solinoid has power Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted June 19, 2016 FYI, when key on, "I" at solinoid has power Yes, if you look at the schematic, you'll get 12v in "start" and 5.7v when "on". Glad its working. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
