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turn signals stuck

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Hey guys!

 

So last time I took the Mustang out for a spin it threw a new issue at me. Turn signals got stuck, as in they do not flash, they come on and stay on. I have replaced the flasher relay and nothing and I fiddled with the turn signal switch since I have had issues with it before and nothing. The hazard lights work just fine but not the turn signals, I'm gonna check all the bulbs and make sure they work... any ideas?

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Well, I just replaced front and back turn signal bulbs and there was no change, verified all the filaments light up but they don't actually flash. I'm thinking the whole turn signal switch assy....I have a repop turn signal switch, the one that breaks all the time, and it has been super finicky but I'm not sure that's the issue here since it affects both directions but not the 4way flashers....

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So four ways all work (flash) but individual turn signals do not flash at all?  That's most unusual.

 

Just for grins, are you running LED lamps by any chance?

 

Try swapping flasher cans from e-flasher (4 way) to turn signal. 

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Well, I just replaced front and back turn signal bulbs and there was no change, verified all the filaments light up but they don't actually flash.

 

If the filaments light, then you've got continuity through the turn signal switch and the wiring harness. The lights blink because the bi-metallic switch in the flasher module gets hot from the current flowing, deforms and opens the circuit turning the bulb off, then cools off, shape returns to normal, closing the circuit turning the bulb back on.

 

Things to check (I know you've done a lot of this already)

 

1. Dual filament 1157 & 1157A bulbs installed on all 4 corners. All filaments good obviously.

 

2. Good grounds to all four lamps. The tail light housings have a spade lug on the bulb socket for ground wire because the bucket is insulated from chassis by a rubber gasket.

 

3. Good flasher module designed for incandescent bulbs, not LEDs. Can be solid state or bimetallic but must be correct.

 

4. Good turn signal switch that actually sends power to the lamps when engaged.

 

5 Good wiring harness continuity to all 4 corners. Because the bimetallic cans rely on current flow, a broken wire to one or more lamps can cause a low current situation that might cause a no-blink condition.

 

Good luck!

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All good suggestions above.

 

The key point in this is that the four way flashers operate correctly.  I suspect your turn signal switch, in the steering wheel hub as number one to check and/or replace.

 

Take a look at the bulbs in 4-way mode, and then when they are stuck on with the turn signal.  Are they brighter or duller in the turn signal mode?

If duller, could be just poor contacts in the switch, not allowing full current.

 

If the same intensity, then it could actually be the flasher can, new or not.

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All good suggestions above.

 

The key point in this is that the four way flashers operate correctly.  I suspect your turn signal switch, in the steering wheel hub as number one to check and/or replace.

 

Is there a way to jump this?

 

Take a look at the bulbs in 4-way mode, and then when they are stuck on with the turn signal.  Are they brighter or duller in the turn signal mode?

If duller, could be just poor contacts in the switch, not allowing full current.

 

intensity looks to be the same

 

If the same intensity, then it could actually be the flasher can, new or not.

 

If the filaments light, then you've got continuity through the turn signal switch and the wiring harness. The lights blink because the bi-metallic switch in the flasher module gets hot from the current flowing, deforms and opens the circuit turning the bulb off, then cools off, shape returns to normal, closing the circuit turning the bulb back on.

 

Things to check (I know you've done a lot of this already)

 

1. Dual filament 1157 & 1157A bulbs installed on all 4 corners. All filaments good obviously.

 

Done, verified all filaments light up parking lights and turn/brake

 

2. Good grounds to all four lamps. The tail light housings have a spade lug on the bulb socket for ground wire because the bucket is insulated from chassis by a rubber gasket.

 

Done, Cleaned and rechecked grounds

 

3. Good flasher module designed for incandescent bulbs, not LEDs. Can be solid state or bimetallic but must be correct.

 

Done, will try a new can. Maybe a Motorcraft one...

 

4. Good turn signal switch that actually sends power to the lamps when engaged.

 

Verified every corner and separate filament lit up.

 

5 Good wiring harness continuity to all 4 corners. Because the bimetallic cans rely on current flow, a broken wire to one or more lamps can cause a low current situation that might cause a no-blink condition.

 

Once I uncover the car after the snow passes I will have to clean all the parts in the harness

 

Good luck!

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So, this is quite embarrassing, after chasing the powers and grounds cleaning them and what not. To my severe embarrassment I discovered I was messing with the wrong can. It was the 4way one I was replacing. After pulling my head out. I pulled the right one, I'm my defense I have never had to replace it. Haha, thanks guys for all of your help!

post-10957-0-48255500-1455478804.jpg

post-10957-0-97374800-1455479083.jpg

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Glad you got it fixed.

 

Also glad it was the flasher can, as suspected by all contributors.   Don't worry about not getting the right can first time.  Midlife did ask that you swap the cans, I guess that move would have identified the problem earlier for you........

 

Thanks for posting the fix.  That is very important for future owners with similar problems.

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