70 Sportsroof Drum to Disc Front Upgrade

[det0326 179]

In my experience only on the power brake cars is the hole elongated

 

Bob

thanks Bob good to know

 

Dave

[barnett468 418]

OH MY, yes, this is fun........that is why I joined and post on this forum.  A lot of you guys have a LOT more experience than I do.

Ok, Barnett, why would I need a stock and adjustable proportioning valve ?

Would they both go up front ?

By the way, I did get started today.  The front drums are off, MC drained, hood off for easier access. Glad my daughter and wife were around to help with the hood.

Hope to get the drivers seat and pedal assembly out tomorrow. No promises, I have to take my daughter and groceries back to college tomorrow.

:)

 

ok, this is a bit complicated and this is the short version.

 

the front and rear wheel cyls or calipers are always matched with each other for proper perf and braking balance when used with other necessary parts like a proportioning valve, especially on a disc/drum system, however this does not mean that the front and rears are both the same size/volume.

 

most of the time, a car that has disc brakes on the front will have a different size/volume wheel cylinder on the rear so the braking balance is still correct.

 

if the ratio of the size of the front caliper to the rear wheel cylinders is correct AND the brake pad area and rotor diameter is the same as stock ford parts, then you can use just a stock proportioning valve but if the ratio is much different, then more often than not an additional redction to the rear line is necessary . . if the brakes are biased too much to the rear due to the caliper/cylinder size, then less of a restriction is required in which case one can get away with just using an aftermarket proportioning valve in the rear line.

 

the basic prblem is that the aftermarket prop valves do not have a huge range of adjustment and are more of a fine tuning device in many cases.

[RPM 1,190]

I do not remove the pedal,assembly.

 

I remove the pedal from the stock manual position while the pedal,support is left in the car.

In your case you will remove the clutch and brake pedal and then put the clutch pedal back in.

 

 

Bob

 

I believe he removed the pedal hanger assembly to do a clutch pedal roller bearing conversion.

[ggugert 1]

Rsanter/Bob, thanks for the info on the pedal assembly.  I have the dash and cluster assembly out.  I still have to check the pedal assembly, but as RPM mentioned, I should do the clutch pedal roller bearing conversion while I have all this apart.  I have not removed it yet.

 

Barnett468, I understand what you are saying about the proportioning valve and ratio to the front and rear calipers, wheel cylinders......my question is, what is a way to test it, if I need just the proportioning valve or also one that adjusts ? if both are needed, would they both go under the hood on the fender wall ?

 

Anyone had any experience with CSRP or GPS Automotive ?  Classic Tube is actually marketing and selling the GPS kit and full SS line set

I thought I mentioned before I wanted to find one kit and not piece meal the setup. One throat to choke ...............should any issues arise.

I had a response from one post that they were all Chinese parts.......

My car is not a race car, I just want to be able to stop more efficiently.

 

Thanks

Gerald

[barnett468 418]

.

 yes they are both very slall maybe 2 x 1 x 1 1/2 inches total in size each.

 

to test it you must first bed in your brakes . . they should come with instructions . . do not do this in a traffic area.

 

after that, one option is to have a friend stand on the curb then drive by him at 20 mph then slam on the brakes and tell you which ones apply first which is most ften the rears .  if the fronts do not skid at al, they backs need to be restricted with a prop valve of some type which is 99.999% of the cases.

 

its really easier to just install a stock type valve to begin with at the very least and a stock, rebuilt 1970 one is one of the best.

 

cougar parts has them . . mustang steve sells them also but he sent one to my frirnd in england and it leaked so he was not impressed or very happy . . he also had to modify the hole in the rod on a booster mustang steve sent him that he said would fit right on and i think he had readjust th rod to piston clearance that mustang steve he personally set, lol, so  i would only use him as a last desperate option and plan on having to fix whatever you get from him.

 

you can also put a 2 lb residual valve in each front brake line to reuce pedal travel slightly.

 

.

[shaun071 62]

If you are staying with drums on the rear I would drop the wheel cylinder size to 13/16" from the standard 7/8". It's a very common mod here in Australia to sort out rear wheel lock up. They were standard on big block cars.

[MikeStang 247]

http://www.discbrakeswap.com/Mustang%20Disc%20Brake%20Conversion%20Kits%20SWAP2.html

 

I run the CSRP Granada upgrade kit and it works perfectly and stops the car on a dime.

I had rear drums but recently swapped to a rear disc kit from Quick Performance which consisted of a few brackets, a spacer and some 78 Caddy rear calipers which worked fine with my system until both calipers started leaking at CTC and I simply went to the parts house and got some 85 Chevy Monty Carlo front calipers and mounted them on the rear and voila working brakes.

Got replacement rear calipers coming from supplier this week.