Convertible top latches - adjusting the "J" hook

[Topless69GT 28]

I am trying to loosen the set screw to adjust my "J" hooks out so that the top will close properly since I replaced the top and all the rubber seals. They are hopelessly frozen and the one side is stripped. I have tried to drill the one side out and keep breaking drill bits. Does anyone have any ideas how to get them out or have the chrome part that the "J" hooks go into? It seems it might be easier to drive the pins out of that part and just get ones that are in better shape. All I see on the internet is a complete latch setup for a very salty price.

[barnett468 418]

.

the broken stud can be drilled out but you need a sharp small punch.

 

punch the center of the broken stud.

 

use a 3/32" bit that has a starter point on it and dip it in engine oil.

 

drill it as deep as necessary but at least 3/8" or until you drill thru it into the aluminum.

 

use a regular 3/16" bit next and drill to the same depth.

 

remove with an easy out . . the 4 sided ones work well but those need to be tapped on the end to drive the sides onto the bolt before trying to turn them.

 

if the aluminum threads are stripped you can helicoil it.

 

if the rubber seal on the front edge of the top is not within around 1/4" of touching the top frame with the top up but latches undone, it will likely never fit properly and you will possibly break a latch trying to pull it down.

 

also, with the latches undone, the top also needs to be within around 1/2" of being in its forward most position.

 

in other words, with the latches undone, the top needs to be very close to the position it will be in when the latches are latched. you can not pull the top down and forward very much with the latches.

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

Those set screws are hardened steel ,they will not drill out with a regular drill bit .I am not sure what will drill them out .I think i have the block that the J hook is mounted in ..If 65-68 is the same as 69 .Post a pic of the 69 so i can compare it with the 68s that i have .

[Topless69GT 28]

Here is a photo of the 69 "J" hook block

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

 I will look at the ones i have tomorrow

[barnett468 418]

.

Actually, you can drill those and other hardened metals with the right drill and technique . . just use a straight flute 100% carbide bit . . you can sometimes get away with masonry bits but not cheap Chinese ones . . they have a good angle and a carbide tip and are easier to find but they are no substitute for the proper bit.

Don’t use oil on carbide bits . . Dip the drill bit and part in cold water every 10 seconds of drilling or use compressed air or a can of “dust off†and spray that at it continually while you drill.

 

Use fairly high pressure and fairly low speed.

 

If you are producing what looks like metal filings instead of chips, the pressure is too light or the speed is too high and the bit will get dull quickly.

 

 

Straight flute, 100% carbide bit

 

http://www.kodiakcuttingtools.com/productdisplay.asp?series=195

 

 

Straight flute, 100% carbide bit with wear resistant coating.

 

http://www.kodiakcuttingtools.com/productdisplay.asp?series=196

 

 

http://www.kodiakcuttingtools.com/pagefiles/drillbits.htm

 

 

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/drilling-hardened-steel-189678/

[machm1970 180]

If you have an ACME Tools near you they have good carbide bits for very reasonable. I had to buy a few when a hardened shock bolt broke off in the frame of my Harley.

 

Matt

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

The 68s look to be the same but the one i have left is not in very good shape ,someone made their own j hook from a bolt and the chrome is green .