Looking for Pointers for pulling 428CJ & T4 Transmission from 69 Mach

[Mach_1 18]

Hey folks! Long time lurker on this site. I haven't been able to do much with the car in a while so I tend to read more than post. Well finally our Mach 1 is getting a new heart, and I need some pointers from folks who have done a remove / reinstall of an FE on a 69/70. 

 

I'll be pulling out our long-troubled 428CJ and replacing it with a 455 FE stroker from Lykins Motorsports. I plan to pull the motor and T4 to also update the clutch and bellhousing while I'm at it. I've pulled motors on new mustangs, subarus WRXs, Foresters, etc...but never on a classic with a BB. The car has Hooker longtubes on it already, and I have the required cherry-picker. Just looking for any pointers, How-to walkthroughs, etc that anyone can provide. I've heard mixed feedback about raising up the back of the car, loosening or removing the master cylinder, when to unbolt / remove headers (if at all), etc. Any help you experienced folks can offer is much appreciated. Thanks!

 

-Rex 

[jholmes217 65]

Jack up the back of the car as far as you can, and pull the engine and tranny together. Make sure to use good block on the front tires to keep it from rolling. You will need a leveler, something like this.    With the leveler, you can adjust the angle to dip one end or the other.  You will want the engine side tilted up high until the tranny clears the tunnel, and keep it high until the headers clear the shock towers.  Put plywood over the windshield just in case as you may need to do some pushing of the cherry picker, and you don't want anything to swing back into the windshield.  Once the headers are clear, start pulling the cherry picker back and start leveling the engine until the entire thing clears the radiator support. 

[jholmes217 65]

Reverse what I said above, and that is the way I will try installing my 428 with 4 speed in a couple weeks with Hooker Headers on.  I've heard it can be dome on the 428 CJ Registry Forum, so I will see if it works.  Keeping my fingers crossed as I really don't won't try try putting those headers on with the engine already in. 

[SM69Mach 68]

Good luck.  Either way with or without headers on its a tight fit.  I have never pulled or installed with the headers on in my car.  I just cussed my way through putting the headers on with the motor already in the car.  After a few times doing it its not all that bad.  Of course having a buddy with a lift sure is helpful. 

[Mach_1 18]

Awesome feedback so far folks! Any issues with the booster / MC interfering? I was hoping to maybe disconnect the headers as the engine & tranny started to pop up a few inches as that would make getting to some of the header bolts so much easier. We will see! Keep the advice coming- ordering one of those levelers now! 

[SM69Mach 68]

That is what I usually do, give a little more room with the engine raised a bit.  I could get some of the bolts from the top and others from the bottom.  Don't be surprised if you can reach some of the lower bolts from the top and vice versa as well.  If you can get the starter out of the way, it also gives you a bit more room to work.  The exhaust was always the biggest PIA for me on pulling and putting the motor back in.  Other than that was always pretty straight forward. 

 

I never had any issues with the MC/Brake booster being in the way. 

[barnett468 418]

remove the valve covers first.

 

it will take you around 3 hours to undo the header bolts.

 

I remove the trans, bell housing, clutch, radiator and fan.

 

no need to have the rear up when removing.

 

yes, use the chain assy shown above.

 

as mentioned, the booster and mc will not interfere.

[jholmes217 65]

Booster and master cylinder were not in the way when I pulled the engine.  My headers were trashed from a previous owner running over a fence, so I used a sawzall and cut the pipes off at the head, then lifted the engine out.  Sold the flanges later on to a racer wanting to make a custom set.

[Rsanter 152]

When pulling a big block I generally pull the engine separate from the trans.

Remove the water pump and the lower crank pully for more working room

 

Take the engine mounts loose, unbolt the converter and the trans.

Unbolt the headers and leave them there.

Pull the engine straight up, well slightly forward to separate from the trans

 

Bob

[Mach_1 18]

Thanks guys- sounds like some options at least which will be nice if I run into issues. 

 

Can anyone point me towards a good deal for a new zero balance flywheel? Is there a popular wheel folks prefer to use with higher HP FE builds? Looking through my options and trying to figure out what to get before the motor arrives. Thanks!