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Big Secz

5.0 EFI Conversion Questions

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I know already that there is a lot of stuff out there about these conversions. But I'm going to ask some questions anyway.

 

Today I just scored a complete EFI setup out of a 92 Mustang.  Here's the kicker....I don't even have a project car yet or a motor to put it on, but I got everything for $150 and at that price I couldn't pass it up.

 

So While I take my time sourcing a motor for it I'd like to go through everything clean it up and prepare it for the conversion.  This includes modifying the wiring harness.

 

Also everything came out of a 60's Bronco, and the PO said it was running when he got it.  He is switching to a carb setup. So the wiring harness may already be setup, but there are some wires that are cut and frayed.  I want to be able to clean it up and make sure none of the wires I need have been cut.

 

Questions:

 

is there a way to bench test the ECU to make sure it's good?

 

What is the best resource with instructions on how to modify the wiring harness for the conversion?

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The engine harness can be merged into your vintage Stang with a 5.0 engine, but it does take some thought. I was going down that track and had a lot of good links on EEC-IV EFI before Ford began shutting down sties like the old FordFuelInjection site that had good information and was no threat to Ford. You do not need the whole car harness, just the engine / computer harness which is what I would guess you have.

Bench testing a CPU would be a challenge to me as it wants all the sensors, etc but I'm sure if you just powered it up it would report a butt load of sensor errors if it was working at all. I never tried it myself though.

 

I bought the proper year Electrical Vacuum Trouble shooting book which helps make sense of all the sensor, controls, etc. Then you can track down the colors, connectors, etc and make some sense out of them. 

 

I kept all my stuff, still think a 67 Galaxie with an 5.0 EFI would make a great daily driver.

 

Stephen

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I agree fordfuelinjection.com was a great reference site, did not know it had been shut down. Here are some additional ref.:

 

http://midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/EFI%20Swap%20-%20Wiring.htm

 

http://www.bcbroncos.com/fuelefi.html

 

 

Thanks for the Bornco site, that is one I haven't seen yet.  I did find this too which seems to be a pretty good soruce on the wiring harness modification:

 

http://aboutcarinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/EFI-harness-installation-instructions.pdf

 

A lot of the sites out there are outdated and provide high level overviews and then reference old sites that no longer work for additional details.  Trust me I wasn't asking this because I have done no research at all.  Just trying to find out the best resources from those that have experience with doing this.

 

Since I'm in no real hurry I'm going to attempt the harness modification myself.  Wost case scenario there are a ton of aftermarket harness options available.  The PO gave me a second harnes that I'm not sure what it goes to. Any ideas:

post-13226-0-73264300-1426547542.jpg

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Man hard to tell what that is for sure. There should be a neutral/backup/VSS/O2 portion as well that runs from the trans to the main harness. That might be it but not sure. I had made my own for that area. They may be different for different years and models though.

 

It's really handy just to lay the thing out on a table and start labeling everything. leave it hooked up to the core engine harness (Round "Salt and Pepper" connections) and start following it out. It's easier to understand a piece at a time vs seeing the whole massive thing at once in my opinion.

 

Stephen

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Right now I'm labeling an prepping the harness for modification. I've already gone through and cleaned and labeled most of the connectors, and came across a few connectors that I'm not sure about.

I think the green and brown connectors connect to an additional harness in the stock car. Not sure if these will be needed for the swap.

From what I've been able to find the white cylindrical connectors are for fog lights.

The round gray connector is behind the firewall grommet near the green connector.

The black connector is just past the firewall grommet.

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Okay, so I've gone through and labeled and identified the connectors on the main harness.  Circled in yellow are the connectors I still have and the ones in red are the ones I have eliminated.  I verified the white connectors in my previous post were for fog lights so I got rid of them as well.

post-13226-0-11075000-1426640932.jpg

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Those that you eliminated are for the egr and the canister purge stuff I think. (maybe?) If you want to make sure the ECU doesn't throw a check engine there is a way of putting a resistor value across the leads so the ECU thinks the sensor or control is still there. Sorry that is so vague, I found out how to do all that and bought a bypass resistor but can't remember the details.

 

Good job so far, you're figuring it out qucikly

 

Stephen

 

Edit: Duh, those are labeled but what I said would likely still stand.

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This is the best resource I have found so far. 

http://aboutcarinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/EFI-harness-installation-instructions.pdf

 

The three that I eliminated are referenced on page 3.  The EGR connector that will throw a code is the EGR position sensor #13 on the fuel injector harness.  They make EGR eliminator plugs that prevent from throwing the code.  It looks like the only other thing that can be eliminated from the harness is the Canister Purge Solenoid #12 on the fuel injector harness and possibly the air charge temp sensor #17 on the injector harness, still trying to find out. The VSS was removed by the PO, but shouldn't need that anyway.

 

The the green 8 pin connector #39 and the brown 8 pin connector #31 on the main harness can be snipped leaving the wires which will be used to wire into the main wiring harness of the car.

 

If I wasn't planning on having AC I could get rid of all the AC related connectors.  If you are going to have AC you need to keep them.  There are a few other wiring mods that need to be made once it is ready to go into the car, such as the Oil Pressure and Water Temp sending units.

 

My next move is to re-route wiring on the main harness relocating as muchas possible to inside the car leaving only what is absolutely necessary in the engine bay to give it a clean install.

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