Have u converted your clock to Quartz movement?

[70fastbak 16]

I'm actually considering taking my clock out and cutting an old bezel up and putting a TV in mine for my Son so he can watch Movies or Play games on it while he rides....he Loves to Cruise but hes so short he cant see over the dash so I have to get him a booster seat LOL but it does get boring for a kid.

I wear a Watch For time

 

If you want to sell it im looking for one, lol.

Seriously.

[miketyler 15]

An interesting post from VMF on how to maintain OEM clock and how to "adjust" their accuracy.

 

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/4622290-post13.html

[miketyler 15]

An interesting post from VMF on how to maintain OEM clock and how to "adjust" their accuracy.

 

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/4622290-post13.html

[SA69mach 39]

An interesting post from VMF on how to maintain OEM clock and how to "adjust" their accuracy.

 

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/4622290-post13.html

 

Well,.....that is my post from VMF.

 

I urge owners of original Ford clocks to NOT discard them. If you want a quartz powered clock, by all means do the conversion. You will get a 20 cent quartz movement, and some retainers and cogs to replace the mechanical clock movement.

Easy enough with some care.

But if you want a clock and your Ford one is just out of adjustment, I urge you to just clean the movement or take it to any clockmaker for a service. it is a very simple and tough little clock.

There are two unique(ish) aspects to the Mustang clock.

1. To keep it wound, Ford decided to add a simple electrical contact points arm to wind the mainspring. Every few minutes, the 'ticking' allows the contacts to come together, and ZAP, the electric short spits them apart, to cycle over and over and keep the mainspring wound up.

 

2. There are usually one or two adjustments built in to any mechanical clock or watch movement to allow the watchmaker to adjust for "gross" and then "fine" timing adjustment. On the Ford clocks, the single adjustment arm is connected via a cog to the manual time adjustment ( the little knob sticking out of the clock for you to alter the time)

As the user alters the time, it also moves the inner movement adjustment, which, ingeniously, adjusts the timing of the movement. So, every time the user 'corrects' the time, it also fine tunes the movement speed, making the clock very accurate over time (a month or two)

 

I have two Mustangs with original clocks. One was serviced and works perfectly, and the other has always worked perfectly (a 69 and a 70)

 

The movements are very simple and easy to clean and service for any shop.

Please don't throw them out.

For similar money to the conversion kits, you can get a quartz clock from an instrument maker and replace the original clock, completely.

 

I would be happy to take any unwanted Mustang clocks that work erratically.......

[SA69mach 39]

An interesting post from VMF on how to maintain OEM clock and how to "adjust" their accuracy.

 

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/4622290-post13.html

 

Well,.....that is my post from VMF.

 

I urge owners of original Ford clocks to NOT discard them. If you want a quartz powered clock, by all means do the conversion. You will get a 20 cent quartz movement, and some retainers and cogs to replace the mechanical clock movement.

Easy enough with some care.

But if you want a clock and your Ford one is just out of adjustment, I urge you to just clean the movement or take it to any clockmaker for a service. it is a very simple and tough little clock.

There are two unique(ish) aspects to the Mustang clock.

1. To keep it wound, Ford decided to add a simple electrical contact points arm to wind the mainspring. Every few minutes, the 'ticking' allows the contacts to come together, and ZAP, the electric short spits them apart, to cycle over and over and keep the mainspring wound up.

 

2. There are usually one or two adjustments built in to any mechanical clock or watch movement to allow the watchmaker to adjust for "gross" and then "fine" timing adjustment. On the Ford clocks, the single adjustment arm is connected via a cog to the manual time adjustment ( the little knob sticking out of the clock for you to alter the time)

As the user alters the time, it also moves the inner movement adjustment, which, ingeniously, adjusts the timing of the movement. So, every time the user 'corrects' the time, it also fine tunes the movement speed, making the clock very accurate over time (a month or two)

 

I have two Mustangs with original clocks. One was serviced and works perfectly, and the other has always worked perfectly (a 69 and a 70)

 

The movements are very simple and easy to clean and service for any shop.

Please don't throw them out.

For similar money to the conversion kits, you can get a quartz clock from an instrument maker and replace the original clock, completely.

 

I would be happy to take any unwanted Mustang clocks that work erratically.......

[stangs-R-me 120]

I put quartz movements in both my '69 and my '67 Fairlane back in the 80's and both still work and keep perfect time.

 

I had a good original in my '69 that I had cleaned up / lubricated to get it going but it was either fast or slow and the self adjustment feature never seemed to do any "adjusting". I've never been one to wear a watch, so my cars always needed accurate clocks and the quartz conversion was a simple way to solve that !!

 

I do miss the mechanical movement of the second hand and the click of the contacts. Back in the 80's, people used to always comment "wow your clock works and is not a quartz conversion" ... miss that too !!

 

One more thing ... YES I agree it is annoying that you can't see this clock from the driver's seat by glancing towards it, but you don't have to lean too far towards the passenger side to be read it ... I've been doing it for around 30 years !! It is a styling thing (and a "Rally Clock as other pointed out) and just looks cool. There are many other things on a '69-70 vs modern day cars that are less functional than the Mach 1/Grande' clock.

 

Doug

Edited October 30, 2014 by stangs-R-me

[stangs-R-me 120]

I put quartz movements in both my '69 and my '67 Fairlane back in the 80's and both still work and keep perfect time.

 

I had a good original in my '69 that I had cleaned up / lubricated to get it going but it was either fast or slow and the self adjustment feature never seemed to do any "adjusting". I've never been one to wear a watch, so my cars always needed accurate clocks and the quartz conversion was a simple way to solve that !!

 

I do miss the mechanical movement of the second hand and the click of the contacts. Back in the 80's, people used to always comment "wow your clock works and is not a quartz conversion" ... miss that too !!

 

One more thing ... YES I agree it is annoying that you can't see this clock from the driver's seat by glancing towards it, but you don't have to lean too far towards the passenger side to be read it ... I've been doing it for around 30 years !! It is a styling thing (and a "Rally Clock as other pointed out) and just looks cool. There are many other things on a '69-70 vs modern day cars that are less functional than the Mach 1/Grande' clock.

 

Doug

Edited October 30, 2014 by stangs-R-me

[1969_Mach1 333]

Not trying to hijack this thread. But mine in a 1969 Mach 1 looks clean, the contacts seem to work, but it is locked up. What causes that? I cannot even move the hands with the knob to set the time.

[1969_Mach1 333]

Not trying to hijack this thread. But mine in a 1969 Mach 1 looks clean, the contacts seem to work, but it is locked up. What causes that? I cannot even move the hands with the knob to set the time.

[SA69mach 39]

Not trying to hijack this thread. But mine in a 1969 Mach 1 looks clean, the contacts seem to work, but it is locked up. What causes that? I cannot even move the hands with the knob to set the time.

 

The movement is prone to dust accumulation and also the lubrication gets dry and gummy after many years.

 

If you take the time to remove the panel and the clock, it is well worth the effort.. you can test the power feed cable, you can test and if necessary change the bulbs out if they have blown.

 

Once you have the clock out you can clean the movement with some low pressure air. I have used carb cleaner, air and even some Dw40 to just test them.

 

Identify the small lever and contacts. (the two contacts are typically half spherical arrays. Invariably they are touching in a clock that has stopped.

Carefully move the lower contact down. It should move down with a light ratchet action, and this should power the clock, and make it tick. At this point you need to spray and lube as necessary to allow the clock to run on its own.

 

If it runs all the way through the cycle (until the contacts touch once again) and then it stops, then continue to manually cycle the lever a few times.

 

Connect power to the clock, either at the harness, or by some rigged 12 volt supply, and let the clock run. Watch for the electric operation of the contacts. Clean the contacts only as required with very fine emery, but don't rub off the shiny finish.

 

If the clock runs very fast. like 3-6 hours per day, then the hairspring is the culprit - oiled. It needs to be dry. It is delicate. Hi pressure air is too harsh. Clock maker visit needed for a service, clean and lube.

 

Then you will have another 30 years of service from the clock.

 

That's enough for now...... Will add more if wanted.

[SA69mach 39]

Not trying to hijack this thread. But mine in a 1969 Mach 1 looks clean, the contacts seem to work, but it is locked up. What causes that? I cannot even move the hands with the knob to set the time.

 

There is something to add regarding the adjustment knob, that you say is stiff and wont move-

 

You must pull the knob out toward you to engage the cog on the 'inner' end of the rod to engage in the timing adjustment cog on the actual clock movement. Again, do this with some care, they are small and a bit delicate. The knob is spring loaded, to automatically disengage the cog (and knob) from the movement.

 

Remember that if the movement is gummed up it is probably too stiff to be rotated by a small adjustment cog...... Think of trying to turn an engine over using the distributor, or the oil pump......

[TheRktmn 15]

SA69mach has given a very good outline of how to clean and rejuvenate your factory clock. If you are not comfortable doing this or you have but the clock still doesn't run, please consider my clock service.

I clean, lubricate and adjust the mechanism as well as replace the points and repaint the hands and buff the lens for $40.00.

If your clock needs a part I have acquired a large inventory of parts over the years and can usually repair the movement.

Repairing the set mechanism is usually more difficult and expensive since most times another clock has to be sacrificed to repair yours.

 

If your clock is completely shot it may make more sense to replace the movement. I have repaired OEM movements I can install for $60. I have a few NOS movements as well, those are $100.

 

If you send the clock in for service and it turns out it is not worth saving then I can convert it to quartz for an additional $85, or return it to you with a $30 refund - I keep $10 for return postage.

Clock repairs have a two year warranty.

 

If you just want to convert the clock to quartz I do that for $125 - this includes painting the hands, buffing the lens (when applicable) and a lifetime warranty.

[sandlersmith 0]

If you already have the kit take the time to carefully read the instructions the night before you plan on converting your clock to a quartz movement. I've used this method whenever I have a project I've never done before and you'll be pleasant surprised how sleeping on it clarifies the instructions the next day. The instructions includes a list of simple hand tools you should have, so make you sure you have those available before you start. One tool the list doesn't include is a small pair of Vise Grips.If you do not have such tools then you must go to any shop of Watch Battery Replacement.