prayers1 153 Report post Posted June 11, 2014 Rebuilt the entire front end including replacing the springs Drove the car down the street and back for the first time since the rebuild. When I got it back to the garage the right front tire bottom was leaning out and the top pushed in. I want to drive the car to the muffler and alignment shops, but I'd like to adjust the tire first. WHAT DO I DO? Thank you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted June 11, 2014 get a car dolley? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted June 11, 2014 You can measure the angle with a level and tape measure (or caliper is preferred) to see where your camber is at. See here under Checking Camber: http://www.negative-camber.org/jam149/technical/alignment.html My tires have a visual appearance of tilting in and they are within Opentracker's specs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted June 11, 2014 Good info, but how do you move the wheel to make the adjustments. What part makes the wheel move in and out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted June 11, 2014 Went to a local tire shop and the guy kept telling me that I had to have shims on the UCA. I believe he's wrong, but he did say to loosen the LCA and the bolt will work the cam bushing in and out. What do you think, is this right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted June 11, 2014 The cam bolt on the LCA adjusts the camber. As you rotate the bolt, the cam washer moves the bolt out or in. Many people do the eccentric eliminators to avoid having a pothole ruin the alignment, but they are more challenging to get the alignment set compared to the eccentric. UCA shims were used on early mustangs since they didn't use the eccentric/cam bolt. If you can't get good camber with bolt adjustment and have to use shims, then something is wrong like sagging shock towers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted June 11, 2014 I think I should be OK w/ the UCA, but I did the UCA drop. Don't know if that has any effect. I'll play with the LCA bolt tonight and see how it operates. Hopefully I can get it close enough to be able to drive a few miles. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted June 12, 2014 Took a look at it tonight. It was not as hard as I thought, fairly easy to do. You loosened the nut on the LCA and turned the bolt head right or left depending if you want it out or in. No it's all set to drive to the shop. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted June 12, 2014 What year car? If,it's a 69-70 then adjust the lower cam bolt to move the bottom of the tire in Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted June 12, 2014 Thanks for posting the solution. I'm replacing the suspension in my car next week. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted June 12, 2014 Thanks for posting the solution. I'm replacing the suspension in my car next week. Take pictures of where the lower arm cam bolt is positioned and set the new suspension back to around that spot. When you remove the inner/outer tie rod ends off keep them together and set the new stuff to the same measurements as the old ones. If you do that you will have the new suspension aligned enough that you will be able to drive it to the alignment shop Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites