Adjustable strut rod ?

[Kris 90]

I have a question for the guys that have made their own adjustable strut rods. I am in the process of making mine and am fixing to order the last few parts I need from speedway. My ? is is there any real benefit to going with the 5/8 hole heim and adding the bronze bushing than jist using the 1/2 hole heim. I am goin off the days design and he says he used the 5/8 due to the cheaper price. For me it is cheaper to get the 1/2 chromoly heim and 1/2 seals as they are both cheaper than the 5/8. Speedway even wants 2x more to ship the 5/8 than they do the 1/2.

Edited March 29, 2014 by Kris

[RPM 1,190]

I went with the 5/8 because of its higher radial strength, and because I went with 3/4" threads. Since I only play an engineer, too much is not enough.

 

Bob

[det0326 179]

I went with the 5/8 because of its higher radial strength, and because I went with 3/4" threads. Since I only play an engineer, too much is not enough.

 

Bob

 

Bob. are these heim joints made from stainless? Was wondering if it would be possible that the swivel bearing rusting over time.

[RPM 1,190]

Hey det0326, I bought QA1 XM Endura series rod ends. According to their write up, and with the boots covering the rod ends, I think it'll be ok.

 

From the QA1 website:

 

XM Chromoly Steel Series Rod Ends

Male Endura Rod Ends

For the ultimate in performance rod ends, look no further than QA1’s XM Chromoly Steel Series male rod ends. These heavy duty rod ends are commonly used on 4-link and ladder bars for their strength and durability. XM Series rod ends are completely self-sealing and self-lubricating because of their Nylon/PTFE injection molded race that keeps dirt and debris out.

 

BALL

 

52100 Bearing Steel

Heat Treated

Hard Chrome Plated

Precision Ground

RACE

 

Nylon/PTFE

Self-Lubricating

Self-Sealing

BODY

 

Chromoly Steel

Heat Treated

Protective Coated for Corrosion Resistance

[det0326 179]

Hey det0326, I bought QA1 XM Endura series rod ends. According to their write up, and with the boots covering the rod ends, I think it'll be ok.

 

From the QA1 website:

 

XM Chromoly Steel Series Rod Ends

Male Endura Rod Ends

For the ultimate in performance rod ends, look no further than QA1’s XM Chromoly Steel Series male rod ends. These heavy duty rod ends are commonly used on 4-link and ladder bars for their strength and durability. XM Series rod ends are completely self-sealing and self-lubricating because of their Nylon/PTFE injection molded race that keeps dirt and debris out.

 

BALL

 

52100 Bearing Steel

Heat Treated

Hard Chrome Plated

Precision Ground

RACE

 

Nylon/PTFE

Self-Lubricating

Self-Sealing

BODY

 

Chromoly Steel

Heat Treated

Protective Coated for Corrosion Resistance

 

Thanks Bob

[alphapygmy 10]

Just did this myself and like Bob went with the bigger stuff. Especially with this part you want to minimize any chance of breakage.

[Kris 90]

alphapygym how are you attaching the heim to the front strut rod frame bracket? Most people I have seen are using the standard 7/16 hydraulic fitting with a 1/2 pin hole. Also do you have part numbers for the stuff you ordered and how long did you leave the lower strut rod that you cut and rethreaded? Thanks

[alphapygmy 10]

To attach the front joint I drill a slightly undersized hole in the center of the spot welds on the rearward side of the old mounting hole. I finished the diameter by hand with a file so there is no slop in the cross bolts. I used a rod-end dust shield and steel spacers from a go-cart store that were 5/8" ID and 1 1/8" long. This added up to almost exactly the width of the inside of the strut rod frame. The cross bolt is a 5/8" grade 8 with a nylock nut and I drilled it for cotter pins, you don't want these cross bolts coming out! I also sized the cross bolts so there is all shank in the holes they go through. That's why there is so much threaded end that sticks out and double washers, no threads are touching where any front to back force will be present. The swaged tube is Afco 10" steel. I used the original strut rods. The threading starts 7" from the closer of the 2 mounting holes and goes out to 11" or 12", I think 11".

 

[Stangboy 14]

Not meaning to thread-jack, but where can I find plans to build these. I must have used the search function wrong, can't find anything. A link would be great. Thanks!

[alphapygmy 10]

This thread is good start, http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=13605&highlight=strut+rods. I didn't use any plans. I just read all the posts on homemade strut rods and borrowed what I thought were the best ideas using the least work while sizing everything to be as large as reasonably possible for the highest strength.

[RPM 1,190]

To attach the front joint I drill a slightly undersized hole in the center of the spot welds on the rearward side of the old mounting hole. I finished the diameter by hand with a file so there is no slop in the cross bolts. I also sized the cross bolts so there is all shank in the holes they go through. That's why there is so much threaded end that sticks out and double washers, no threads are touching where any front to back force will be present.

 

Damn, looks like my car under there. I also have the oil pan studs. I like the work you've done. In Carroll Smith's book "Engineer to Win" he talks about drilling the hole a size smaller, then reaming the hold to size. Files work just fine, although a bit slower. I also subscribe to using the shoulder of the bolts where they pass thru the mounting tabs. I had to buy many bolts for the stang to do it though. Top shelf work my friend.

 

Bob