428 - I drove it - now I must fix it – rebuild thread

[jwscarab 20]

I bought my 69 Mach1 in March 2013. Details of car are in my signature. I quickly found some issues right off the bat. In the spirit of not being able to quit driving it, I band-aided the issues and added on miles. It seemed like more but I just checked and I only put 800 miles on her this summer (leery of break downs). The longest being 50 miles one way.

 

I have to admit – even a little embarrassed – I have yet to even get to know my car, especially the underside. I have not spent very much time under it at all, and believe it or not, I have yet to even remove the wheels or change the oil (yes it had fresh oil when I bought it – and I added oil – a LOT of oil).

 

So I hope to make up for this now and fix the issues, do upgrades, and most importantly- get to know my car. I do have family and work so this wont be super fast updates, but hopefully some constant progress. Bear with me on replies - I will get to them in time. I’ll try to post a lot of pictures to keep things interesting.

 

Important issues to tackle this winter:

 

1) Massive oil consumption - maybe 4 quarts over 800 miles

2) Oil in coolant (no coolant in oil), minor oil on floor, oil out exhaust.

3) Headers leak and bolts hit shock towers

4) Rear tires rubbing

5) Fuel gauge quit

6) Misses hard at 4500 rpm and up – like a rev limiter

7) Dipstick hits windage tray – and too long

8) Fix one headlight

9) Fix horn

 

Upgrades I would like to tackle while she is down - not in order:

 

1) Replace gauges with Autometer in OEM location – except leave tach on pillar

2) Replace intake manifold, valve cover, and oil pan gaskets

3) Find solution to keep quarters rolled – possibly weld lips up

4) Remove electric fuel pump and replace with OEM style

5) Try to find a better electric fan/shroud that covers more of radiator

6) Replace tail lights with LED

7) Replace rear seat with fold down

8) Replace whole ignition system (distributor, etc.)

9) Replace rear louvers with OEM style

10) Add hood scoop emblems

11) Replace drivers door glass with bolt in (passenger side already done)

12) Move front seat back further and replace with different style – possibly Fiero and Mr. Mikes

13) Change out steering wheel with a Moto-Lita

14) Change out all wood grain panels for painted or "mild" Carbon Fiber look

 

Big “wish list†items that I would love to get done but may not make it this year:

 

1) Add power steering – possibly electric

2) Replace heads with aluminum

3) Replace headers

4) Replace harness with Painless or AAW

Edited October 8, 2013 by jwscarab

[jwscarab 20]

These pics show the engine before disassembly - then the exhaust bolts hitting the shock towers and oil leaks.....

Edited October 7, 2013 by jwscarab

[jwscarab 20]

Mallory Unilite - has to go. Same with the HUGE fuel filter. Also see how the fan shroud needs to cover more of radiator. There is probably 1/4" between the pulley and fan. I want to go to a single groove pulley setup too.

Edited October 7, 2013 by jwscarab

[jwscarab 20]

The previous owner removed the shaker and added a B9 scoop. I am going to leave it on, and just add the 428 and CobraJET emblems to it. Still has shaker hood with hole in it - but shaker is long gone. Maybe a project if she gets a repaint some year. I like the recessed antenna but need to do something about the holes - maybe I can find a retractable with a rectangular base. No room for power brakes - thankfully it stops just fine with manual 4 wheel disc. Doesn't seem too bad on rear of engine as far as oil leaks.

Edited October 7, 2013 by jwscarab

[jwscarab 20]

Aftermarket rear louvers have to go - and be replaced with OEM style. These just don't look like they belong on the car. The OEM look natural on the car. I like the big tach on the pillar - it makes a statement when you pull up to a Camaro. But the rest of the gauges can go in the OEM bezel. Wood grain needs to go, including wheel. A Moto-lita like shown but dished and not flat would look good with the removal of the wood grain panels.

Edited October 7, 2013 by jwscarab

[jwscarab 20]

Im not a huge fan of the front seats. They definitely need moved back many inches for me to fit. I may change them out to Fiero seats and Mr. Mikes covers so I can enter / exit the car easier.

 

The previous owner did a good job making a fold down seat from Home Depot material, but I have the parts from my old car so I might as well remove this and put in the correct stuff. I think the addition of a Shelby style roll bar and harnesses would be cool too, but I am afraid I will hit my head on the retractors because I am tall and I will be moving the seats back.

Edited October 7, 2013 by jwscarab

[jwscarab 20]

Ok, my first item is to see what's going on with the intake manifold gasket - see if it let go causing all my oil issues. I hope so because if its not, it may be a block issue then the engine is coming out. But first I want to try to replace the manifold gasket and see what happens. I'm going to do a compression test on the cylinders first - then start manifold disassembly - results and pics to come.......

[jholmes217 65]

If your intake gaskets are Fel-Pro Print-O-Seal, then that is probably the culprit. They are more for race engines that are disassembled often. They don't last long on street engines. They have the nickname of Print -O-Leaks! I'd go with a different intake manifold. The Edelbrock Performer is great for low end torque like for a truck, but not good for for mid to upper range power. A Blue Thunder, or Edelbrock Streetmaster or Performer RPM, or Holley Street Dominator would be a better choices for better power through the RPM range.

 

Headers options will be few with the TKO trans. Stan at FPA might be your best bet.

 

Barry Robotnick at Survival Motorsports has some new aluminum heads he calls FElony heads that look promising. I'm thinking of getting some of those for my 428 CJ.

[jwscarab 20]

Hi JH, Thanks for the info on the gaskets, etc! I did do a little reading on the FE forum and they seem to also think those are junk. I did buy new FelPro 90145 so I will use those without using the front and rear - just using "the right stuff" in those areas.

 

I'm new to most everything above a tune up - so this will be a learning experience for me. I've tore a lot of cars apart but never got them back together.....lol. This car seems like a good fit with the projects it needs - I can handle.

 

Great advise on the heads and headers. I was not aware the TKO limited my choices. I'll check into the FPA's. I did check my manifold and it is a RPM - updated the signature.

 

I hope to get the manifold off tomorrow!!

Edited October 7, 2013 by jwscarab

[mustangstofear 608]

Joe, looks like you have a good car to start with.

[jwscarab 20]

Hi Rich! I am tackling all this stuff over the winter and starting with the engine oil issues. I definitely need to talk to you soon about the steering wheel, what you have for dash panels, possibly roll bar. Not sure what else you offer but I should need a lot over the winter. I'm off this week so I will call you to talk for a few! Thanks!

[mustangstofear 608]

Joe, if you follow Steve's build you can see all the new parts we're developing for the 69-70. We are completely re doing the roll bar. I didn't like the looks or the function of the Aeroform roll bar Steve provided us with.

[jholmes217 65]

Hi JH, Thanks for the info on the gaskets, etc! I did do a little reading on the FE forum and they seem to also think those are junk. I did buy new FelPro 90145 so I will use those without using the front and rear - just using "the right stuff" in those areas.

 

I'm new to most everything above a tune up - so this will be a learning experience for me. I've tore a lot of cars apart but never got them back together.....lol. This car seems like a good fit with the projects it needs - I can handle.

 

Great advise on the heads and headers. I was not aware the TKO limited my choices. I'll check into the FPA's. I did check my manifold and it is a RPM - updated the signature.

 

I hope to get the manifold off tomorrow!!

 

Another thing. Whatever headers you go with, make sure they are ceramic coated. Under hood heat is a big issue with big block Mustangs, and the ceramic coating will help with that.

[jwscarab 20]

Got the plugs out and they all seemed ok except #8 which was covered with oil. Did the compression test on a cold engine and without depressing the accelerator pedal - so it was just cold and reach arm in and turn key 5-6 revolutions. My choke horn is milled off so its getting air. My car does not turn super fast like most - most likely from battery in trunk so ground is not the best - but I assume it would still test accurate.

 

Results are:

 

#1 = 150

#2 = 150

#3 = 158

#4 = 142

#5 = 168

#6 = 165

#7 = 157

#8 = 135

 

I even double checked a couple - like #8 to make sure numbers were right.

 

I'm a little concerned by the oil on #8, and the lbs-psi being all over the map. Especially #8 being lower. Can any experts jump in on the results?

[jholmes217 65]

Could be the intake gasket (those crappy Print-O-Leaks.) That would be one of the easier fixes. All others involve pulling the heads or pulling the whole engine. Any idea how many miles are on this engine?

[jwscarab 20]

About 2-3k miles on rebuild - which was about 8 years ago. I just "squirt" a half oz or so of SAE 30 in cyl #8 and redid the test - to temporarily seal up the rings - psi went to 145. 10 psi higher then earlier today.

[jholmes217 65]

Do you by chance have a build sheet that tells what kind of rings and seals were used? Some rings seat faster than others.

[jwscarab 20]

I sure don't - there was not much paperwork on the engine build. I'm going to redo the compression test - at WOT. I didn't have open throttle so my numbers may be flawed. Hopefully that will even them out and I can move on to the intake gasket, then the fun stuff on my list! Fingers crossed!.. Thanks.

[SM69Mach 68]

You should try to do a leakdown test as well. That will give you a little more info.

[390mach1 49]

 

Upgrades I would like to tackle while she is down - not in order:

 

1) Replace gauges with Autometer in OEM location – except leave tach on pillar

2) Replace intake manifold, valve cover, and oil pan gaskets

3) Find solution to keep quarters rolled – possibly weld lips up

4) Remove electric fuel pump and replace with OEM style

5) Try to find a better electric fan/shroud that covers more of radiator

6) Replace tail lights with LED

7) Replace rear seat with fold down

8) Replace whole ignition system (distributor, etc.)

9) Replace rear louvers with OEM style

10) Add hood scoop emblems

11) Replace drivers door glass with bolt in (passenger side already done)

12) Move front seat back further and replace with different style – possibly Fiero and Mr. Mikes

13) Change out steering wheel with a Moto-Lita

14) Change out all wood grain panels for painted or "mild" Carbon Fiber look

 

Are you looking at selling the wood grain stuff your planning on taking out?

I would like to buy them if you are.

 

Thanks

[jwscarab 20]

I redid the compression test again today at WOT - 150, 152, 158, 145, 165, 163, 160, 147 (keep in mind I squirt oil in #8 yesterday so its higher now).

Anyway, I looked in the Ford manual and they say a min of 135 = a max of 180, and a max of 165 = a min of 123. I am not ideal at all but I am within spec.

 

Also, my valve covers leak like crazy when I turn off engine and flood the cavity outside the head where the header gasket sits - and it smokes like crazy on start up while burning this off. It makes me think the heads getting flooded is real.

Although not ideal, I think I need to go ahead and do the intake manifold gasket, check drain paths etc. After I'm running again I will check plugs for oil etc. I do want to thank everybody for their help!

 

Fingers crossed this will work. If not, no harm done. But I want to try easy, and most likely stuff first. Back on track - back to my list!

 

Are you looking at selling the wood grain stuff your planning on taking out? I would like to buy them if you are. Thanks

 

Not currently but if I do I will let you know. I may need them to paint, or modify. But I may find worse ones for that too. I can definitely let you know when I get to that area! Thanks

Edited October 9, 2013 by jwscarab

[jwscarab 20]

Did a leakdown test today and it came out great. All the cylinders were in the 94-96 psi range. I sure hope I did it correctly but I am sure I did. Also didn't feel any air from carb/valve covers/exhaust, but I could hear it - just not loud.

 

I'm off to where I started - changing the intake manifold gasket. Learned a few things from the guys in the 428 forum as far as oil restrictors to the heads, drains, etc - so that's on my list before it get reassembled. Before and after pics of engine compartment today. About 8 hours work with the leakdown test and flushing the engine.

Edited October 11, 2013 by jwscarab

[390mach1 49]

Thank you. You have a great looking car. I'm currently doing a restoration on a 69 S code and hope for it to look like yours one day.

[jwscarab 20]

yw 390Mach1! Good luck with your build! I'll pm you when I get to that part. I kind of got lucky finding the car - it was the color I wanted but color was not a limiting factor. The paint is 20 years old. The previous owner buffed it out and put a new coat of clear on it. He also put on the wheels tires and stance too. The rear tires rub on big bumps - need to be a tiny bit narrower. Front needs to drop 1". If you really look at the car- its really a driver. I proved that this summer coming home from 2 out of 3 shows empty handed....lol

 

Currently have not updated much on thread because I am still battling the hard part first. I made my own leakdown tester from scavenging parts off of a bead blaster and a compression gauge. Also, went ahead and tore off manifold - what a job!! Currently in the process of inspecting for leak paths, bad gaskets, valve condition, etc. The guys over on the 428cj forum are helping me thru this part - I don't know much of what I am doing or looking for.....lol. Possibly put in a new distributor while I am putting it back together.

Edited October 12, 2013 by jwscarab

[82firebird 11]

Love the progress, keep on trucking! :)