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69R-CODE

Headlight Issues

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DANNO- I did have oil pressure light when I first put the new printed circuit on. Then It stopped working the next time I turned the key on. I have tested the gauge feed with the key in the run position and have no power to it at all. I have also tried grounding it and nothing happens.

 

I did not think about testing all the fuses in the run position. I will do that this afternoon.

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With the key in the "run" position, both side of every fuse should have 12 volts. If only one side of a fuse has voltage, the fuse is blown. This is the place to start. You could have a bad key switch, because the voltage goes from the battery, to the key switch, then to the fuse panel. 2 of the fuses do not go through the key switch, the should have voltage on them even if the key is off.

 

For the oil pressure light, if you disconnect the wire that attached to the oil pressure sense switch ( near the fuel pump), and short between this wire connector and ground, the oil light should go on. You also need the key in the "run" position. If you put a voltmeter in this cable connector pin, you should get 12 volts.

 

Almost every fuse will have 12V with the key in RUN, EXCEPT the 4V dash lamps. It gets its power from the headlight switch, which must be pulled out and rotated fully on. Input power will vary from 0 to 12V.

 

Lately, folks have been having problems with the reproduction circuit boards: I know of at least 4 bad boards in the past 6 months. This may explain your oil pressure light.

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I fixed the headlights and printed circuit board at the same time. I turned the key on the run position (not started yet) and the oil light came on (first time its ever done that) then it went off as I started the car. Now you turn the key to the run position and no light.

I pulled the gauge feed wire off the oil sending unit and put my volt meter on it and go 0 voltage.

 

Side Note: The water temp gauge work fine.

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The oil light is connnected to the +12 volts that comes on the circuit board, and the other side connects to ground through the pressure switch. With the instrument panel removed, you should be able to follow the circuit traces just by looking at them and figure out which of the "fingers" at the connector is the one that connects to each side of the oil light. Then use your battery charger and touch it to these 2 points to see if you can get the light to turn on. I will bet it will not.

 

I think the same 12 volts that goes to your oil light also goes to your constant voltage regulator for your temp gauge, so if that works, you are at least getting voltage to the hot side of the oil light.

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