Ford AOD trans

[Trav_450R 10]

Hey y'all, I'm in need of some transmission advice... Me and my dad have been wanting to put a AOD in our 69 Coupe for quite sometime, and being at the KC2K13 car show and cruise this weekend made me want to do it even more. I didn't take the car up there, but cruising at 70-80mph on the interstate would've been murder on that 331! I've been going back and forth to different sites seeing what parts and kits and even whole transmissions companies have to offer. From what I know, a stock AOD can handle 450hp? (Correct me if im wrong). The 331 we have now will eventually make 600, and im not sure if just buying a whole trans, or sending mine off to be modified or even doing it myself. GearVender OD units are freakin expensive no doubt. Kinda hoping some tranny experts can chime in to give me some advise on what to do, I'd love to do the tranny work myself that way I get the experience. Isee some sites offer kits to install a AOD in the 65-73 first gen Mustangs

 

Thanks,

Travis

[Boogerschnot 12]

Nice car!

 

The AOD swap is a piece of cake. I wouldnt trust a stocker behind your 331 though. I called gear venders last week and you arent kidding.. Might as well sell an arm and a leg for a OD unit. Look into picking up one locally and building it if you think you can tackle it. I'm scared of the inside of transmissions, but would probably try it with the right info.

 

If not, you could pick one up for cheap and have it built, or just get one thats already built up. Mine is totally stock, but my 351w is fairly mild, definately under 300hp.

I just read in a few places that the rebuild is really not hard. They say to get the video, and use a haynes/chilton manual to help out. Dont forget the lokar TV cable, tranny lines, a flexplate from a FMX (or the swap plate listed in any of the parts magazines) and either the stock, or a custom torque converter. Cross member for the AOD, and possibly about an inch off of your driveshaft. I love mine, you will too. Then change up your rear gears for a 3.70-4.11 and go cruise.

[Trav_450R 10]

Thanks! I have an AOD out of a '84 Vic that our block is out of. I read out of an old Hot Rod issue that you could possibly use a C6 cross memeber and tranny mount to bolt it in! I was worried at first cause I thought you would need to make a new trans tunnel. Im running 4.11s right now on a 28" tire, been pondering on downsizing to a 26". What gears are you running in yours and whats your rpm at 65-70?

[Boogerschnot 12]

Your AOD will fit easily. Are you balanced for the 84 block or for the C-4/c-6 you are using now? If you already have the trans I would give it a shot. If you want, I could send you my old FMX crossmember and you could modify that one for a pretty cheap price. IF you have the extra crossmember I would go for it, I wish I would have saved the money and poorly fitting aggravation of my aftermarket mount. I used my stock rubber mount on the aftermarket cross member.

 

I also modified my shift linkage to work. I would have to take a pic of it for you, because I cant remember exactly what I did. But it took about an hour and I welded a stud to one end for the link.

 

I run 3.73's and turn about 2000rpm (not sure how accurate my Tach is, its a cheapo) at 65-70 with a 255/50/17 wheel.

[Max Power 74]

With your horsepower plans, I am not sure I would take any shortcuts on this install, unless you feel like doing it again. Not even sure how even the built AODs will handle 600hp.

 

The TV Cable on these AOD swaps always scared the crap outta me.

[69shelbycoupe 11]

An AOD swap is a good idea. A stock one will work for awhile unless you are going to be running it hard and putting sticky tires on the car and launching it. It won't last with that abuse. A built AOD will handle well over 600hp. I had a built AOD running in the 10's in the quarter for my daily driver behind a stroker motor I built. At 65mph with 26" tire at 65mph it ran about 2300rpm.

[jjstang 51]

You should seriously consider the 4r70w. hey will handle more hp in stock form and can handle even more than a aod with few a upgrades. It also a wide ratio so you'll get a lower first gear too. That will allow you to run a lower rear end gear for better highway cruising without sacrificing of the line. It requires a electronic control box, but by the time you spend the money upgrading an aod to handle equal hp it's not that much more. Plus you get the advantage to tune the transmission for our lighter cars, which you can't do with an aod. And you don't have to mess around with the tv valve. It's an easy swap.

[Grabber70Mach 107]

Heard this video is really good for rebuilding it yourself.....

 

http://www.badshoeproductions.com/aod.html

 

Also might want to check out Silverfox on this forum lots of good AOD stuff on here..........

 

http://www.clickclickracing.com/forums/forum.php

[rd49221 14]

AOD's can be built to handle high HP. You might want to check with a couple of suppliers that specialize in them

 

http://www.lentechautomatics.com/

[LindenBruce 27]

I did the conversion and modded the factory TV brackets so I could keep the factory TV cable, which is a lot stronger and more durable than the Lokar stuff. With the Lokar, you either love it or hate it. And those numbers are just about evenly split. So if you decide to keep the factory TV stuff let me know and I can shoot you my pics.

 

The 4r70w is great transmission, but you will need a controller. If you already have n 84 AOD, upgrade the internals from a 4r70w and it will greatly improve your transmission durability. That 84 unit will need some oil system mods, but you can do those yourself or a competent rebuilder can do it. Check out clickclickracing.com for those mods and further info on the transmission itself. I bought my rebuild kit from Silverfox at that forum and was happy with his service.

The badshoe video is great. Also, get a manual from ATSG( Automatic Transmission Service Group). As far as crossmembers go you may not have to buy one. I would try using yours first. Since I had to use an adaptor plate for my appliction, I had to build my own crossmember.

 

The swap is not that hard. Can you give more specs on your engine? Bruce

[Trav_450R 10]

I did the conversion and modded the factory TV brackets so I could keep the factory TV cable, which is a lot stronger and more durable than the Lokar stuff. With the Lokar, you either love it or hate it. And those numbers are just about evenly split. So if you decide to keep the factory TV stuff let me know and I can shoot you my pics.

 

The 4r70w is great transmission, but you will need a controller. If you already have n 84 AOD, upgrade the internals from a 4r70w and it will greatly improve your transmission durability. That 84 unit will need some oil system mods, but you can do those yourself or a competent rebuilder can do it. Check out clickclickracing.com for those mods and further info on the transmission itself. I bought my rebuild kit from Silverfox at that forum and was happy with his service.

The badshoe video is great. Also, get a manual from ATSG( Automatic Transmission Service Group). As far as crossmembers go you may not have to buy one. I would try using yours first. Since I had to use an adaptor plate for my appliction, I had to build my own crossmember.

 

The swap is not that hard. Can you give more specs on your engine? Bruce

Yeah I actually just found out a little bit ago that the 4R70 has a stronger gearset and was told to swap it over, I also planned on getting the one piece mainshaft (a absolute must) the main thing I can't really decide on is a lockup or non lockup converter, and id like a manual valvebody that i can shift 1,2,3,OD, not 1,2,OD...

 

Bruce the 331 has the blueprinted block, cast balanced Scat assembly with approx 10.5:1 compression, ported cast heads (soon to be much bigger aluminum), custom grind Comp cam hyd. roller lifters and 1.6 roller rockers. single plane Edelbrock Torker II, Holley 650DP, MSD Billet distributer and M6A ignition

[Trav_450R 10]

Your AOD will fit easily. Are you balanced for the 84 block or for the C-4/c-6 you are using now?

I run 3.73's and turn about 2000rpm (not sure how accurate my Tach is, its a cheapo) at 65-70 with a 255/50/17 wheel.

 

Yeah the engine is balance for that setup, but if i remember right, the flexplate i get for the AOD would just need to have the same weight thats on the one i have now. Wow thats awesome on the highway speed

An AOD swap is a good idea. A stock one will work for awhile unless you are going to be running it hard and putting sticky tires on the car and launching it. It won't last with that abuse. A built AOD will handle well over 600hp. I had a built AOD running in the 10's in the quarter for my daily driver behind a stroker motor I built. At 65mph with 26" tire at 65mph it ran about 2300rpm.

I've seen quite a few guys on clickclick claiming this! Making me pretty pumped!

 

You should seriously consider the 4r70w. hey will handle more hp in stock form and can handle even more than a aod with few a upgrades. It also a wide ratio so you'll get a lower first gear too. That will allow you to run a lower rear end gear for better highway cruising without sacrificing of the line. It requires a electronic control box, but by the time you spend the money upgrading an aod to handle equal hp it's not that much more. Plus you get the advantage to tune the transmission for our lighter cars, which you can't do with an aod. And you don't have to mess around with the tv valve. It's an easy swap.

Eh im trying to keep the car all mechanical, whats the weight difference between the two?

 

AOD's can be built to handle high HP. You might want to check with a couple of suppliers that specialize in them

 

http://www.lentechautomatics.com/

I've been looking at their valvebodies!

[Boogerschnot 12]

The TV is really not that big of an issue, just remember more pressure/pull is better. You get it moving 1/1 without bottoming out at WOT.

 

As long as you actually use it, and adjust it for about 6psi at idle you are good. The rest is feel.

 

I also took my car for a spin yesterday and came up with about 22500-2300 RPM with the 255/50/17 and 3.70 rear at 65.

[LindenBruce 27]

If you go with a one piece input shaft your convertor choice is a moot point on an AOD. All you will need to do with a convertor is select diameter and stall speed. B.

[LindenBruce 27]

As an adendum, the AOD does not have a locking convertor. There is no mechanical means inside of the convertor that locks the stators. Take for example, if you have ever driven an 80's or 90's GM product with automatic over drive give this a shot. While maintaining a cruise speed of say 55mph, keep your foot on the gas and slide your left foot over to the brake pedal. Very slightly apply the brake pedal with your left foot and keep an eye on your RPM's. As soon as you begin pressing on the brake pedal, but not enough to apply the brakes, you will see the engine rpm's jump up about 500 rpms. That is the mechanical clutch inside of GM's locking convertor disengaging. Release the brake pedal and the rpm's will drop back down gain. Now try that on a Ford AOD, those made before 1993, and this very phenomenon will NOT happen.

 

Once the Ford AOD hits third gear, IIRC, the Direct Clutch Drum toward the rear of the transmission and the Forward Clutch Drum at the front of the transmission are spinning at the same RPM. So the urban legend of the convertor being locked was born. But as I said on this transmission the stators inside of the convertor are not locked mechanically. B.

[jjstang 51]

Originally, I thought I wanted to avoid the electronic control box too. But when I saw the benifits of the 4r70w, I just had to go that way. There are several after market control boxes out there that take away the headache of this sway.

Read this site

http://www.becontrols.com/

[bomccorkle 12]

I too am doing an aod swap does anyone have any pics or dimensions of their cross member I don't have one at all for my car and was hoping to just build from scratch?

[LindenBruce 27]

Here are the pics of my cross member. Sorry, no measurements, but it gives you an idea of one way to do it. B.

[bomccorkle 12]

Awesome thank you sir. Now if only someone could chime in and give the dimension from the bolt holes that mount to the car to the plate I think I can wing the rest.....

[Trav_450R 10]

If you go with a one piece input shaft your convertor choice is a moot point on an AOD. All you will need to do with a convertor is select diameter and stall speed. B.

I'm seeing on some descriptions that some of those one piece shafts require a non lockup

 

 

I also took my car for a spin yesterday and came up with about 22500-2300 RPM with the 255/50/17 and 3.70 rear at 65.

 

Thats not bad, way better than 3200-3500!