Need HELP-Did the bodyshop mess up!!!

[prayers1 153]

Mike, thanks for the pics. Rear set up is lookIng good, nice attention to detail!

Fenders and hood are new Dynacorn, bought all of my sheetmetal on CJ Pony 20% sale.

The hood has the typical bulge in the center, can't see it in the pics but their gonna work it out by placing blocks of wood on the ends and gently pushing down. Will see if that works.

[Monzy 10]

You've got the same setup as I do. I have all stock metal/suspension thats factory and based on your pictures it looks like you may be a 1/4" to the driver side then I do. They also look like 5.5" backspacing wheels, like mine. Only thing I see is your pictures are taken on more of an angle on the driver side then passenger which could be giving more of an illusion, exaggerating the driver side sticking out? Either way I'd do what the others have said and move the whole rear over. Just curious but how close is the rubber snubber on each side, to touching the side of the tire?

[prayers1 153]

Monzy,

I won't be at the Bodyshop until next week to answer your questions. As for the snubber, I cut them off.

[buening 63]

If you think the frame is out of whack, confirm the dimensions at the rear of the car shown below. Otherwise, offset holes in the spring perch or remove and reweld the perches with the rear centered. My rear is offset as well, I think 1/4" or so.

 

[prayers1 153]

buening- Thank you for the measurement chart.

Before dismanteling the car, I purchased the Manual that gives all dimensions.

I hope the Bodyshop used it. I will be going there in a few days and check myself, but I don't know how accurate I can bee since all things are bolted up under the undercarriage.

Thanks!

[prayers1 153]

Went to the shop today to do some measuring to see if things are square. From the diagram above things seem to be pretty right on.

However, on one measurement suggest by Mach1rider, I measured diagonally from the last hole of the front frame to the front corner of the leafspring shackle starting from the drivers side to pass side and came up with 149 3/4", the other side measured 150 1/4", difference of a 1/2".

 

We then placed a 4' level against the outside of the tire and remeasured the distance from the 1/4 panel lip to the tire. Drivers side is 7/16ths, but the Pass. goes into the lip 1/8th, the diff. is 5/16ths. From eyeballing the tires, it looks like they are off a lot more than 5/16ths.

 

At this point there's really not much that can be done since it's all welded in, I'm just gonna have to live with the drivers side tire sticking out more. I feel that I will have to go with a different tire and wheel set up, maybe a 17x9.5 w/ a 275/45/17/ tire.

If worse comes to worse, I can always cut one axle shorter.

 

Thanks for your interest!

[RPM 1,190]

Hang in there prayers1, every time I discover a factory f up i have to remind myself that they weren't building watches on the car line. I believe the guys who built my car in San Jose were smoking some hand rolled weed before, during and after work.

 

Bob

Edited March 21, 2013 by RPM

[miketyler 15]

You do have options. Drilling or elongating the spring locator hole in the perches like G mentioned is a no brainer and if you plan to thrash your car you could weld the hole or plate it and redrill it clean. Also, to avoid spacers, you could run a custom backspace on both wheels that would correct the offset condition or just run narrower tires and run a spacer on one side so the fender lip profile matches the other side.

[prayers1 153]

Thank you, very good suggestions!

 

If I do elong the hole on the axle perch, wouldn't that throw the driveshaft angle off.

I know were talking 5/16ths of an inch instead of inches, I just don't know the tolerences of the driveshaft.

[buening 63]

The driveshaft angle will be fine. The change is minor

[prayers1 153]

OK, Thanks.

Is it necessary to fill in the hole after its been aligned. If so, how to keep the weld from filling in the new hole. Is there some sort of dowel to stick in there, then pull it out when its colded.

 

FYI: My 295/50/15 tire specs are 26.6 OD & 12.3 Section width.

As someone mentioned before, the 295 is wider than some 315's.

Thinking of dropping down to a 11" width, I really love that fat tire look!

[buening 63]

If you are moving it 1/2", the holes will likely be next to each other and not touch. I would fill the hole like you do a rosette/plug weld. Use copper backing and just fill the hole with a weld puddle. Grind flush and you are good to go.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Your easiest fix would be to egg shape the holes in the plates.

First thing is to remember that it has to go right so the holes need to go left. I know your staring and going :blink:

 

But remember that your not going the full half inch but splitting the difference from side to side to bring the rearend to center.

Still going:blink:

 

Start with the rear on stands at the frame pads, remove the Ubolts and use some wooden shims to raise the housing off the stubs.

now center the housing using the outside of the wheels to body measurement again.

Once you have both sides even, Now mark the pin location on the housing.

Now you know how much and in what direction the holes need to be opened and moved.

[buening 63]

Heh, yeah I guess he's moving the holes 1/4" (half of the 1/2" difference).

[prayers1 153]

Yes. I had to laugh because at first, my thoughts were going that way. Good one!

 

I follow what your saying. By egg shaping the holes, will the rear have a tendency to walk over to the original holes. Should I fill in the original holes first, then mark and drill new holes,

[LoneWolf2U 136]

If you tork the u bolts correctly the chance of the rear walking is slim to none.

Your not going to be elonggating the holes that much.

[prayers1 153]

Here's a picture of the rear I took out showing the spring perch, the center hole is 5/8 wide. Does anyone know how wide the center pin is on the springs.

 

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Prob just shy of 1/2in.

Just a thought, does the body shop have a frame/body pulling set up?

Optional fix for the squareness is frame pull that 1/4 inch over.

Down side is some body part removal to attach clamps, but overall its time cost to get your rear right. :biggrin:

[Fordrevhead 29]

If you are moving it 1/2", the holes will likely be next to each other and not touch. I would fill the hole like you do a rosette/plug weld. Use copper backing and just fill the hole with a weld puddle. Grind flush and you are good to go.

 

+1... They can move for sure.

[RPM 1,190]

My spring bolt head is .480

 

Bob