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ksquared

Radiator support panel question

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My 69 was originally a 290hp 351W but soon to be a 428 (not soon enough). My original radiator is a 20" wide unit. My "belief" is that the 428 will need a larger 24" wide radiator. Does this mean I need a whole different support panel? If so, is it a bolt in item or is welding needed?

 

Perhaps another option is to use a higher efficiency aluminum 20" unit & retain my existing support panel?

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Don't go with a 20" aluminum, it won't be nearly enough regardless of which core you use. You will need the upper and lower radiator brackets for the 24" clamp in style radiator. The lower brackets are available new and bolt in. The upper is still available used or new reproduction. The factory radiator support at the front of the engine compartment is designed for either radiator applications so you will not need to swap any body parts out. It's a bolt in deal. Bruce

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Oh I do, I do..... My factory 428 and C6 were missing when I got my beast and it's been along and expensive road trying to put her back right again. So I can feel your pain. What are you doing for induction? I still have to purchase my shaker assembly. Jesus, it never ends:wacko:. Bruce

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I thought about a shaker then I thought about the other kind that works with my Mach I non-functional scoop (forgot what it is called). After pricing things, I decided to not bother for now. I can do a lot of other more important things for the $. Shakers cost too much for minimal performance gain. Hell, I could install nitrous for the cost of a shaker. But they do have a coolness factor...

 

I plan on converting to rear disc brakes early next year. Also, I'm going to make some differential temperature measurements and depending on the readings, I may add a diff cooler. I'd like to convert those non-functional rear side scoops to intakes for the diff cooler. I hate non-functional cosmetic items (like my hood scoop). Arrgh - it never ends...:clown:

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If your talking about the radiator support itself, if it is a bolt in unit, then someone has done some work to mine. I have the fender off, and I see no where that it is a bolt in. I wish it was, but mine does not have the look of just taking out bolts, and replace it. It looks more like it is spot welded in.

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Oh I do, I do..... My factory 428 and C6 were missing when I got my beast and it's been along and expensive road trying to put her back right again. So I can feel your pain. What are you doing for induction? I still have to purchase my shaker assembly. Jesus, it never ends:wacko:. Bruce

 

FYI, I saw a 428 shaker assembly for sale recently over on the VMF forums. I'd post a link, but I don't think links to other forums are permitted. So, you might want to poke around and do some searching over there.

 

EDIT: Sorry. It appears someone was asking about the value of a 428 Shaker assembly. But he apparently never listed it for sale on VMF.

Edited by Klutch

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Nightowl, the radiator support welded into the car does not change. There are a series of bolt-in holders that hold the radiator in place.

 

ksquared, here's a list of brackets that I /think/ you need. I was originally looking to swap in a larger radiator, but after choking on the price, opted to keep the 20". The radiators listed are for a big block in a 70. If I recall big blocks starting in 67, the water pump had out on the passenger's side and in on the driver's side. Your 69 351 had in/out on the passenger's side.

 

AutoZone $260 -- CU379

Advance Auto $260 (Ready Rad Radiator) -- 433379

http://myworld.ebay.com/engineered-products (24”) $199 (w/ free shipping) -- PN 379 <--- Best deal

 

Will need big block radiator mounting brackets (~$111)

Upper mount -- PN 98233 01 -- $33

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=98233+01&

Lower mount -- PN 8A193 01 -- $35

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=8A193+01&

Lower support insulator -- PN 08125A 01 -- $10

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=08125A+01

Upper support insulator (for 2” cores) -- PN SD88 01 -- $14

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=SD88+01

Upper support insulator (for 2 3/16” to 2 1/4” cores) -- PN SD87 01 -- $13

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=SD87+01

Mounting bolts -- PN AMK559 01 -- $6

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=AMK559+01

Edited by MustangChuck
had my ins and outs backwards (figures!)

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Okay, I thought he was talking about taking out the support for the radiator. Where can one find those pieces on the sides of the radiator that fill in the hole? I put a 3 row aluminum in mine, but the sides are open now. I can't seem to hunt them down, so I will just get new ones if they make them.

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KLUTCH - I saw that posting and was curious myself if they were looking for one or maybe thinking of selling one but was not able to determine anything more.

 

NIGHTOWL - Sorry if I wasn't clear on the radiator thing. The Radiator support is welded in. But the brackets that hold the radiator are bolt in as MustangChuck stated.

 

The radiators you find at ebay and almost all other supply houses are Chinese junk with a 3-4 year service life if you're lucky. U.S. Radiator makes their radiators in house here in the states, but they are twice the cost of Chinese junk. But then, they last a lot longer too. Like I have always told customers, "pay me now or pay me later".

 

Bruce

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Thanks MustangChuck for all of the links. I need the radiator with the outlet on the pass. side & inlet on the drivers side. Standard FE. Thanks Bruce for the warning about the Chinese junk on eBay. I was looking at those today & thought that they looked good for around $200.:shit: Their ad copy is a bit rough in spots. Didn't know they were from China.

 

I checked out U.S. Radiator (who I had not heard of before your post) and their price looks like $405 for model AL051600ANDZ. Know anything about SUM-380479 on the Summit website? They want $359.95. They don't say where they are made. Probably the Chinese ones marked up:excl:

 

My concern about the radiator support panel was about going from a 20" to a 24" wide radiator. I was worried that the opening wouldn't be wide enough.

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the aftermarket lower radiator supports are not built correctly. i bought from 3 different suppliers and they were all made the same way. they will work, but you have to cut them and then re-weld so that the side that gets bolted to the frame is flush with the frame.

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Thanks MustangChuck for all of the links. I need the radiator with the outlet on the pass. side & inlet on the drivers side. Standard FE. Thanks Bruce for the warning about the Chinese junk on eBay. I was looking at those today & thought that they looked good for around $200.:shit: Their ad copy is a bit rough in spots. Didn't know they were from China.

 

I checked out U.S. Radiator (who I had not heard of before your post) and their price looks like $405 for model AL051600ANDZ. Know anything about SUM-380479 on the Summit website? They want $359.95. They don't say where they are made. Probably the Chinese ones marked up:excl:

 

My concern about the radiator support panel was about going from a 20" to a 24" wide radiator. I was worried that the opening wouldn't be wide enough.

 

 

From my research the only domestic made copper radiators are those made by U.S. Radiator. All others are imported usually from China but also Taiwan and Mexico and other countries. Just gotta love outsourcing huh?

The hole in your support will be big enough for the 24". I will be buying mine from U.S. Radiator here real soon. Bruce

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ksquared,

 

One more thing to pay attention to because I just made this mistake is the thickness of your radiator. If you buy an aftermarket aluminium 4 row (mine is 24" Champion), the brackets mentioned above will be too narrow. I now have to do some fabrication to widen them.

 

Regards

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A lot of guys buy Champion aluminum units. Although they are imports, most people speak very highly of them. The 4row 24" is not a perfect fit though for our cars. I have a new Champion 24" with integral trans cooler for sale. Has never seen fluid. I just didn't like the fit. I am told the three row units fit very well.

 

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Edited by miketyler

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