Daves69Coupe 10 Report post Posted August 22, 2012 So Im trying to get the brakes bleed and the connections at the proportioning valve keep pissing fluid and there tight. I dont understand it. Ive hooked everything apart and put it back together 4 times and keep getting leaks when I start pumping the brakes to test for leaks. Attached is photo of how I routed lines. I did switch the in and out ports of prop valve. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ksquared 13 Report post Posted August 22, 2012 Perhaps you don't have the correct flare on the pipe ends going into the valve? If not, it'll leak like crazy. There are a number of different flare types. Don't know what your valve needs but some examples are here: http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lemon Owner 11 Report post Posted August 22, 2012 They are not tight enough. When you think they are tight, tighten them some more. But be careful not to tighten them too much and strip the threads. :thumbup1: Working on cars is fun huh.:lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daves69Coupe 10 Report post Posted August 22, 2012 Perhaps you don't have the correct flare on the pipe ends going into the valve? If not, it'll leak like crazy. There are a number of different flare types. Don't know what your valve needs but some examples are here:http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf there double flares right now. I gotta see if thats what it should be for jegs valve. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daves69Coupe 10 Report post Posted August 22, 2012 They are not tight enough. When you think they are tight, tighten them some more. But be careful not to tighten them too much and strip the threads. :thumbup1: Working on cars is fun huh.:lol: I tightened them to the point where you cant see the threads going into the prop valve. O yea there "fun" lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRASTiK 22 Report post Posted August 22, 2012 if you can bottom out the hex portion of the fitting on the valve, then it's possible you need a deeper fitting and it's not mating the flare to the valve itself tight enough to seal. Just a thought. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bobh67 18 Report post Posted August 22, 2012 So Im trying to get the brakes bleed and the connections at the proportioning valve keep pissing fluid and there tight. I dont understand it. Ive hooked everything apart and put it back together 4 times and keep getting leaks when I start pumping the brakes to test for leaks. Attached is photo of how I routed lines. I did switch the in and out ports of prop valve. Are they stainless steel/ Those are the most difficult to seal. I never had great luck sealing ss no mater how tight you get them I do like regular steel better for that reason. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daves69Coupe 10 Report post Posted August 22, 2012 if you can bottom out the hex portion of the fitting on the valve, then it's possible you need a deeper fitting and it's not mating the flare to the valve itself tight enough to seal. Just a thought. There the fittings that came with prop valve so they should fit fine but who knows. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangnet33 88 Report post Posted August 22, 2012 Check carefully for hairline cracks from over tightening. Check those flared fitting that they are made right. Also lose any teflon tape or sealants from the nut as it won't help with any sealing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted August 22, 2012 All great suggestions thus far. Also, when installing new lines that are flared try this. tighten down the line, then lossen it up and retighten. Do that several times. This will help form the flared end to the seat inside of the article it is attached to. Kinda like breaking in a new motor. You don't slap it together then hammer the throttle at first. Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lemon Owner 11 Report post Posted August 23, 2012 All great suggestions thus far. Also, when installing new lines that are flared try this. tighten down the line, then lossen it up and retighten. Do that several times. This will help form the flared end to the seat inside of the article it is attached to. Kinda like breaking in a new motor. You don't slap it together then hammer the throttle at first. Bruce That's great advice, I will do that myself from now on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daves69Coupe 10 Report post Posted August 23, 2012 That's great advice, I will do that myself from now on. is there any way of testing for leaks without having to install all the lines master cylinder etc. I feel like ive done that atleast 5 times now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted August 23, 2012 Sure, but you would need the appropriate plug for those connections that are open. Ie, a plug that has an inverted flare so it would seal against the insert/seat on the article is was being used on. Any automotive supply house with a selection of fittings would most likely have them. Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites