Flanders 47 Report post Posted June 27, 2012 I was going to bolt on the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate this evening. I don't think there is much rocket science involved ;) and I have the clutch alignment tool so I believe I've got everything I need. I have all the torque specs and know how to get the pilot bushing out (and replaced with another one) but I'm wondering now if the pressure plate and flywheel need to be aligned in a certain position? I didn't mark the flywheel position on the crank before I removed it, nor did I mark the pressure plate position on the flywheel. Does it matter? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted June 27, 2012 Shouldn't make any difference. Only thing is it needs the locator dowels in the flywheel or shoulder bolts for the pressures plate to keep it centered at the correct spot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flanders 47 Report post Posted June 28, 2012 ugh. 1 hr of trying to get the stupid clutch pilot bearing out, and the stupid thing won't come out more than 1/32". I tried all the tricks suggested on here, but nothing worked. The bearing is definitely worn, as there's lots of play when I put the alignment tool in it. I ended up using a 1/2" deep socket along with stuffing it full of grease, as that fit much better. But, no luck. I now need to go find the proper tool. Any recommendations on a tool? I see a hammer type one, along with a gear-puller style one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cavboy78 28 Report post Posted June 28, 2012 you can rent one from a local parts store. The one I used from O'Reily's has has two puller jaws that go inside the bearing and then threaded to expand the jaws tight on the back side. The second part of the tool rental is a slide hammer that threads into the puller threads. Once threaded on, give it a couple of yanks and it should pop out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GypsyR 32 Report post Posted June 28, 2012 Pilot bearings can indeed be a pain. I've had the best luck with the slide hammer type tools. But on a few I've have to chisel them out. The rotation of the clutch setup doesn't matter just line up with the bolt holes. DO NOT tighten the bolts one at a time. Tighten them just a turn or two then across to the opposite one. And so forth around and around, little by little. One reason is that as someone posted a while back that if you try to run down the bolts one at a time you can snap them right off. Then you have to pull everything and try to get the broken bolts out, find new bolts, etc. Before you tighten the pressure plate bolts, snug them down so you can just wiggle the plate with the line up tool. Then use your fingers to feel where the edge of the plate is. Plates aren't usually a perfect match in size and there should be three gaps where you can feel how exactly the edge of the clutch plate matches the edge ofthe pressure plate. Line up tools don't line up perfectly. Usually the weight of the plate lets it "sag" down a little. By feeling with your fingers and tightening the bolts just a little you can get it close to perfect. It isn' necessary but sometimes it can be a bear to get the input shaft lined up with the clutch and pilot bearing. Every little bit helps as wrestling a transmission into a clutch is not much fun. Every once in a while one just drops right in. Lining up the clutch with your fingers AND the tool increases the odds that it may happen that way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flanders 47 Report post Posted June 28, 2012 Well, I tried again with a socket wrapped with electrical tape, and IT WORKED :) GypsyR, thanks for the suggestions -- however I as I torqued down the *last* pressure plate bolt, the head snapped off. $%@#. I can't begin to tell you how many bolts have snapped off in this car, either from removal or installation. Looks like new pressure plate bolts are in my future. I drilled it out, however looks like I took out half the threads in the flywheel. #@$! again. I'm looking at replacement flywheels, which leads to another question -- is it recommended to replace the flywheel bolts? With my luck, I'm getting new ones anyway :) but just wondered if it's common practice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nightowl 10 Report post Posted June 29, 2012 If it was mine, I would just go with all new. Save yourself some aggravation,, and keep the hammers locked up so you don't get the urge to hit something. Been there, done that.:biggrin: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flanders 47 Report post Posted June 29, 2012 Are flywheel bolts just standard grade 8 bolts? (with a bigger head)? VW uses funky stretch bolts for everything, but I believe these are just a grade 8 bolt. Ya? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted June 29, 2012 NO! And do not use auto trans bolts in the flywheel for a manual eather. Get the proper bolts for a standard trans flywheel. They have a shorter head so the clutch plate doesn't hang on them. From the been there, did that files.... And had to pull the trans/bell out again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flanders 47 Report post Posted June 29, 2012 thanks for the tip! looks like I'll just re-use the ones I've got...and torque them up very slowly. They really don't look that bad, I was just trying to be cautious! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites