Where do I have to cut my floor boards to weld in new torque boxes

[1BAD351 21]

As the title states, does anyone know exactly where I have to cut my floor boards out to gain access to the torque boxes? Also is there anything behind my floorboards that I have to worry about cutting through such as fuel lines or maybe a brake line?

[Fordrevhead 29]

They weld to the toe board below the pedals but you do everything from below except drilling the row of spotwelds along the top edge. See my build thread revheads 70 coupe build i did drivers torque box, toe board, floor support and short pan. Ebrake cable runs through drivers torque box.

[1BAD351 21]

Sweet, that definitely helps. Reading and seeing all that is making me second guess doing this myself though haha. I don't have the cut the whole floor pan out though like you did right? I just have to cut the front part somewhere?

[1BAD351 21]

Anyone?

[Fordrevhead 29]

You dont have to but if your torque box is bad I wouldnt be surprised if your floor is as well.

 

My box was not bad at all just a little separation at the overlaps but I know they didnt coat the internals and they rust from the inside so off it came. After I blasted the car the short pans (from the toe board under pedals... you'll see a seam under where your heel lands) back to the seat risers was full of pin holes. It seeme solid, I could have rust converted it and fiberglassed it up and undercoated it and it would be like 9 out of 10 other Mustangs out there but IMO anything worth doing is worth doing right.

 

One more thing, I have added torque boxes to the earlier cars without them and it was easier on this car with the short pan and toe board off. Of course I also had the rotisserie on this build so that makes every job easier.

[1BAD351 21]

You dont have to but if your torque box is bad I wouldnt be surprised if your floor is as well.

 

My box was not bad at all just a little separation at the overlaps but I know they didnt coat the internals and they rust from the inside so off it came. After I blasted the car the short pans (from the toe board under pedals... you'll see a seam under where your heel lands) back to the seat risers was full of pin holes. It seeme solid, I could have rust converted it and fiberglassed it up and undercoated it and it would be like 9 out of 10 other Mustangs out there but IMO anything worth doing is worth doing right.

 

One more thing, I have added torque boxes to the earlier cars without them and it was easier on this car with the short pan and toe board off. Of course I also had the rotisserie on this build so that makes every job easier.

 

Hmm, ok I'll have to see what I want to do, maybe I'll cut the whole pan out and just weld it back in when I'm done if it makes everything easier. My drivers pan has already been replaced, and my passenger pan seemed perfect but I guess I'll find out.

[bcsilver 10]

You will also need to replace or repair rail extensions, likely the repair bottoms of the frame rails and of coarse toe board patch panel. There is a reason 9 out of 10 stangs are patch worked in this area. lol I am happy I did mine right, but it was alot of tough dirty work. About 40hrs to do this. (maybe I was slow)lol

[1BAD351 21]

I plan on buying the torque box with the rails on it already to save myself some work. Can't hurt to replace the rail too and from what I hear it's just overall easier.

[Mike65 476]

Let me know where you get your torque boxs from, I need to do the l/s front on my 69 Coupe.

[1BAD351 21]

Let me know where you get your torque boxs from, I need to do the l/s front on my 69 Coupe.

 

Probably going to just do a search online and whoever has the cheapest dynacorn boxes I'll buy them. Maybe local craigslist or ebay even.

[MustangChuck 16]

I was looking into the torque boxes. From what I've read, it is best to get the two piece boxes that you have to assemble, not the one piece (already assembled) box. I don't know of too many online places that sell Dynacorn. Laurel Mountain Mustang does but that is all I know of.

 

M/C

Edited March 22, 2012 by MustangChuck

[1969 coupe 15]

I was looking into the torque boxes. From what I've read, it is best to get the two piece boxes that you have to assemble, not the one piece (already assembled) box. I don't know of too many online places that sell Dynacorn. Laurel Mountain Mustang does but that is all I know of.

 

M/C

 

CJ Pony sells Dynacorn stuff as well. I think they are running a sale and torque boxes are 20% off. I ordered some a while back while they were on sale, two piece boxes, and gussets were included. I have not installed yet, but hope to soon. The issue with them is that a lot of things are on back order or takes several days to get. I don't mind waiting if I get a good deal, but it can be frustrating at times. They offer free shipping on a lot of items, but if you place a big order and something is not in stock they will wait to ship the entire order when the items arrive with them. Just my experience, not really an issue for me, but just so you know. For example, if one is in stock and the other states 5-7 days, they won't ship both until they get the other and will probably be a couple of weeks.