69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted February 2, 2012 Looking for opinions on Tri-Y headers for a '69. Anybody running them? I've currently got the factory manifolds on my 302, although i bolted up a 2-1/4" dual exhaust (wish I went 2" but that's another story). I've got a pair of long tube headers hanging in the garage if I want to go that route but I'm really liking the idea of Tri-Y's. Trouble is, most Tri-Y's don't like the bigger bellhousing on the'69s, and some cost almost $600. I've got a Z-bar, too. I'd like to know if a good chrome, nickel or ceramic set exists that doesn't cost $600 (I mean, c'mon, the design's been around for 45 years) and fit a '69 without "adjustments". Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonyinsandiego 37 Report post Posted February 2, 2012 Can you tell me about the bell housing fitment issues. I'm looking for the same set up and just want to know what to look out for. I will go with the AOD even if it means giving up headers. I think the AOD trumps the headers all though i would like both. Anyone with any suggestions?? The AOD with the tri Y would be the setup I'd like to go for but, you do have to pick and choose your battles. #1 choice is the AOD with tri Y's. #2 AOD with headers and #3 AOD with a dual exhaust custom set up. One thing I don't understand is why would you choose 2" over 2.25" pipes? I'm still in the learning process and looking for all the info I can get. Any advice out there? I usually learn by 2 methods. First, by the mistakes I make or by the mistakes others make. The second is usually the cheaper one :) Thanks for any info. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted February 2, 2012 Can you tell me about the bell housing fitment issues? I don't have any first-hand experience but the details on a lot of Tri-Y offerings refer to making "adjustments" to get them to fit, like the following... 1967-70 Manual transmission cars require additional driver's side header clearancing around steering box. Fits manual transmissions using 10" or 10.5" clutch only. 1968-up bellhousings require drivers side header clearancing. Non-HiPo cars with manual transmission may need header clearancing for clutch linkage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jholmes217 65 Report post Posted February 2, 2012 Try calling Stan at Ford Powertrain Applications. Here's a picture of his Tri-Y for 302. http://www.fordpowertrain.com/347step.htm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MustangGT 11 Report post Posted February 2, 2012 How about a set of Tri-Y's for a 351W -- that don't cost an arm and leg. The decent ones look like they are around $500+. I would like the headers for the performance but not sure I can justify that much $$$ for a few HP. Thoughts??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted February 2, 2012 JBA, which I have personal experience with, make a great sturdy header. You might think about a set of shorties if you are worried about bell housing clearance. As Jeff also pointed out, talk to FPA as they make headers equal to or better fitting than JBA. As far as your AOD goes, I am installing one behind my FE and I plan on ordering a set of tri-y's from FPA here in a few weeks. From my research they are the best fitting header. So the AOD really should not be much of a problem. From a parasitic loss of HP, I think the AOD is on par with a C6. Not very good. The C4 is the best from what I have read followed by the FMX. But with today's fuel prices I will take the AOD anyday and sacrafice a few HP's. Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted February 3, 2012 I know FPA and JBA both have very good reputations but, like MustangGT, I can't justify $600-$700 for a set of headers. I know the old adage "you get what you pay for" but that's too much for my budget. Since Tri-Y's have been around for 45 years I was hoping someone made an affordable set that fits a '69. I think the big problem is they're made for '65-'68 and nobody really worries if they'll fit a '69 or not so they don't (unless you tweak them). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonyinsandiego 37 Report post Posted February 3, 2012 As far as your AOD goes, I am installing one behind my FE and I plan on ordering a set of tri-y's from FPA here in a few weeks. From my research they are the best fitting header. So the AOD really should not be much of a problem. I thought I was crazy doing this with a 351W. I hear header fitment is nothing short of a nightmare with the AOD. I have a few leads on a AOD and will make my decision most likely this weekend. I;d like to hear how this works out with the FE big block. Have you considered a stroked 351? From a parasitic loss of HP, I think the AOD is on par with a C6. Not very good. The C4 is the best from what I have read followed by the FMX. But with today's fuel prices I will take the AOD anyday and sacrafice a few HP's. This also surprises my since they AOD has the lock up converter. Plus you can get the AOD in a wide ratio gaer set up and be a little quicker off the line and have 30% overdrive. I'm also going after a few extra MPG's. How are you solving the braket issue with the AOD? Making one or buying one from a vendor? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted February 3, 2012 (edited) I thought I was crazy doing this with a 351W. I hear header fitment is nothing short of a nightmare with the AOD. I have a few leads on a AOD and will make my decision most likely this weekend. I;d like to hear how this works out with the FE big block. Have you considered a stroked 351? This also surprises my since they AOD has the lock up converter. Plus you can get the AOD in a wide ratio gaer set up and be a little quicker off the line and have 30% overdrive. I'm also going after a few extra MPG's. How are you solving the braket issue with the AOD? Making one or buying one from a vendor? No, I never considered a stroked small block. I am trying to put my car back to factory as much as possible, which happens to be a factory "R" code car. Hence the AOD. Big blocks were never that great on gas:angry: I will dumping the entire power train in as a unit, so that means the headers will bolted on prior too said activity. If there are any problems with power train fitment I will know up front. I talked to Stan at FPA several times and he assures me the transmission will not be a problem. Which bracket are you talking about? The TV brackets? I am using the lower bracket from an F-150 that I chopped down to clear my transmission tunnel. The top bracket is also from an F-150 that I again modded for my Holley carb. If you want pics I can supply them. I looked at the Lokar stuff and was not impressed. They just appear to be to flimsy for my taste. Using factory brackets and cable was in my mind the only option. The factory stuff has a warranty AND massive global reputation they have to live up to. Aftermarket does not. The C4/FMX have about a 25-28hp parasitic loss. The AOD has about a 40-45 HP parasitic loss. The C6 has about 55-60 HP parasitic loss. I don't know about the 4R70W, but just because it has a the lower gear ratio doesn't mean is has lower HP loss due to parasitic values. The C4 weighs 110lbs, the C6 weighs 140lbs, the AOD weighs 150lbs, and the FMX tips the scales at 160 lbs. These are all average of course. If a person changes internals and or torque convertors that will throw these figures out the window. Bruce Edited February 3, 2012 by LindenBruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonyinsandiego 37 Report post Posted February 4, 2012 (edited) Which bracket are you talking about? The TV brackets? I am using the lower bracket from an F-150 that I chopped down to clear my transmission tunnel. The top bracket is also from an F-150 that I again modded for my Holley carb. If you want pics I can supply them. I did buy the Lokar TV cable. I would like to check out what you have. The Lokar cable will need lube and a little loc tight just for extra security. I was expecting a little more from Lokar so, I can see where you're coming from. The bracket I was inquiring about is the one going to the transmission to the frame holding up the rear part of the tranny. What will you do about the drive shaft? I take it you'll use OEM drive shaft. I don't quite understand what your saying about the parasitic loss in an automatic. When they lock up do you still have a loss? Does parasitic loss translate to slip or just the power going through the transmission from input to output? Thanks Bruce Edited February 5, 2012 by tonyinsandiego Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted February 4, 2012 I am making my own transmission crossmember. I looked at those that are available and I don't think any of them will work since I'm using an adapter plate to mate the trans to the engine. I am having deadnutson.com make me a drive line once the powertrain is in place and I can measure it out. Yes, automatics soak up horse power just making them work because of the clutch packs, bands, torque convertor and heavy internals. Lets say you are pushing 100hp into a C4. Because of how it works and the components it uses, you are going to get 75hp out the rear. I know they say AOD's have a lock-up, but its not really a true lock-up. In 3rd and OD, the direct drive drum is spinning at the same speed as the convertor and that's where people get mixed up and call it lock-up. Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustangdug 10 Report post Posted February 8, 2012 I have Stans Tri-Y's on my car. They are the chromed ones, I absolutly love them! Nice thick no leak flanges and the ball type flange is the shit for adjustability. They arfe not cheap but whats good and is? Doug Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdlester69 10 Report post Posted February 15, 2012 I have a 302 with a C4 and i have a set of Patriot Tri-Y's that i got from Summit Racing. They went on with no problems. I only have about 700 miles on them but they are great so far and i think they were less than $200. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdlester69 10 Report post Posted February 15, 2012 I have a 302 with a C4 and i have a set of Patriot Tri-Y's that i got from Summit Racing. They went on with no problems. I only have about 700 miles on them but they are great so far and i think they were less than $200. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted February 15, 2012 I had a '69 coupe with a 302, C4 trans, and P/S, with a set of Doug Thorley Tri-Y headers. They cleared everything great, and were really nice quality too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted February 15, 2012 I had a '69 coupe with a 302, C4 trans, and P/S, with a set of Doug Thorley Tri-Y headers. They cleared everything great, and were really nice quality too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chillininnh 21 Report post Posted February 15, 2012 I used the Doug's D669Y midlength headers. Real thick flanges, tons of ground clearance. I would recommend them to anyone. http://www.jegs.com/i/Dougs-Headers/776/D669Y/10002/-1?parentProductId= Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chillininnh 21 Report post Posted February 15, 2012 I used the Doug's D669Y midlength headers. Real thick flanges, tons of ground clearance. I would recommend them to anyone. http://www.jegs.com/i/Dougs-Headers/776/D669Y/10002/-1?parentProductId= Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted February 15, 2012 I used the Doug's D669Y midlength headers. Real thick flanges, tons of ground clearance. I would recommend them to anyone. http://www.jegs.com/i/Dougs-Headers/776/D669Y/10002/-1?parentProductId= I'm a big fan of mid-length headers anymore. I've had enough sets hang low, and scrape everything in sight. I like my cars sitting lower than stock too. So, mid-lengths really are the best bet for ground clearance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted February 15, 2012 I used the Doug's D669Y midlength headers. Real thick flanges, tons of ground clearance. I would recommend them to anyone. http://www.jegs.com/i/Dougs-Headers/776/D669Y/10002/-1?parentProductId= I'm a big fan of mid-length headers anymore. I've had enough sets hang low, and scrape everything in sight. I like my cars sitting lower than stock too. So, mid-lengths really are the best bet for ground clearance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djs69stang 10 Report post Posted February 19, 2012 I too have the Patriot Tri-Y hdrs. They went on fine, sound great and helped some with the HP but the Ceramic coating isn't all it is cracked up to be. Too many rust spots which are really hard to get off, especially at the mounting flanges. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djs69stang 10 Report post Posted February 19, 2012 I too have the Patriot Tri-Y hdrs. They went on fine, sound great and helped some with the HP but the Ceramic coating isn't all it is cracked up to be. Too many rust spots which are really hard to get off, especially at the mounting flanges. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdlester69 10 Report post Posted February 21, 2012 I agree with you on the ceramic coating. I ordered black but when they came i got the ceramic, but for the price they are hard to beat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdlester69 10 Report post Posted February 21, 2012 I agree with you on the ceramic coating. I ordered black but when they came i got the ceramic, but for the price they are hard to beat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonyinsandiego 37 Report post Posted July 10, 2012 Which bracket are you talking about? The TV brackets? I am using the lower bracket from an F-150 that I chopped down to clear my transmission tunnel. The top bracket is also from an F-150 that I again modded for my Holley carb. If you want pics I can supply them. Would it be possible to snap a few pics of your TV and bracket set up. I think the factory stuff is the way to go after thinking about what you said. I finally have the aod ready to go in. It always takes longer then you think.\ Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
