69 Coupe door skin replacement.

[Mike65 476]

I got started on replacing the door skin on the r/s door on my 69 Coupe today. I ground down the edges on both the front, back, & bottom of the door skin & then ground down the top edge of the door skin & tapped a stiff putty knife along the edge seperating the skin from the door shell. This left about a 2" piece that looks like it is spot welded to the inside edge in the window opening area where the beltline weatherstrip would clip into. My question is what does everyone think would be the best & easiest way to remove this remaining piece of the outer door skin? I have a large angle grinder which I used to grind the edges of the door skin it looks like it would be a tight fit to try to get it in that area to grind away at the spot welds there. Any ideas? If anyone has done this which metal did you use, Dynacorn or other brand?.

[stangnet33 88]

Do you have a die-grinder like this and burr/grinding set ? Nice & small and should work quickly.

 

[stangnet33 88]

I'm also in the same situation that I need a door or a skin. I'm thinking Dynacorn.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

do you have a picture of what your talking about? it only took a couple minutes to get my skins off, so i'm a little confused about what's happening.

[Mike65 476]

I am working tomorrow but I can take a picture & post it on Thurs. What brand door skins did you use Buckeye?.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i never installed them. i started media blasting the frames after removing the original skins and they turned to swiss cheese. so i picked up new doors.

 

i'm trying to sell the skins.

[Mike65 476]

Here is a pic of the part that is left on the door shell of the skin.

http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff499/NJMike69/100_0364.jpg

[shelbyshelby 52]

Mike65, I just done this to my drivers door last week with not so good results. 1st complaint, I used the dynacorn skin and the body lines aligned up nice except the bottom edge, which I can slide my pink into now. 2nd complaint, I cut small notches in the lip to weld back to the door frame. This caused a gentle wave across the bottom. 3rd complaint, I used the skin zipper tool. It worked on the sides after I got the lip folded with a hammer and dollie. The skin zipper did not work well on the bottom. It had interference withe bottom of the shell, causing it to cock the tool enough to put a small crease in the outer skin. Mine would require 2 welding rods welded to the bottom and some filler , so I gave up on it. I just hope the complete doors aren't too short. I would definitely buy a skinning hammer if I were to attempt it again, just for the bottom. A regular body hammer isn't long enough. I'm not trying to discourage you, just inform you of my mistakes. Hope yours turns out better. Btw, wait until you get the skin to remove the brace so you can see what comes with the new one. Don't forget to measure the width of the window channel, before you remove the brace. I used a cut off wheel to grind thru the spot welds on that brace, there is enough room in the inside of the door to do it.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

maybe this will help

 

Door Skin Discussion

[Mike65 476]

Thank you, that post with the pics answered my questions. The piece I was asking about comes with the new skin. Thanks again.

Mike.