panteramatt 1 Report post Posted July 11, 2011 Im currently putting on a front disc power brake swap from csrp. I already have the brakes on and am putting in the master cylinder. Im having problems figuring out the adjustable prop valve and the new brake pedal doesnt even come close to fitting. its about 2" longer. Its going in a 69. anyone have any ideas or pics for me to follow? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted July 12, 2011 This might help............... http://www.mustangsteve.com/fyi_brakepedals/msFAQbrakepedals.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
panteramatt 1 Report post Posted July 12, 2011 Sweet! I didnt know there where other mounting points in the pedal support. Now I just gotta figure out the prop valve and Im good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brianrupp78 10 Report post Posted July 13, 2011 I did the csrp swap a while ago... I dunno if ill remember enough to answer your questions or not but I can try. If your converting to the power booster you will have recieved a longer pedal because it is mounted higher on the brack behind the dash... this is so it can connect to the booster. Whats the question about your adjustable prop valve? It needs to be between the distribution block and the rear brake line. You will have two lines for front brakes and one for rear off the distribution block. Finding proper fittings is going to be a real pain in the ass... really wish csrp would have made this part easier. Go to napa and bring all your stuff with you(distribution block, prop valve, MC if u need it... which you will need different fittings for if you got the new one from csrp) and plan on spending an hour or so there finding the right combo of lines and fittings that will connect everything together. Dont waste your time going to shucks, oriellys, autozone, or hardware stores they wont have what you need. Your going to have to get creative when plumbing lines to get the stuff in there. Switching out the pedal is a real pain in the ass I had to take the front seat out... Also make sure your pedal is straight and fits as it should before you put it in... Quality control on the pedals really seemed to be lacking... The first one i got was crooked as hell and was welded together to far to the right and it covered up my gas pedal... the second one i got was welded up a little straighter but was still pretty piss poor... Just make sure its good before you put it in because it sucks having to do over. lemme know what questions you have... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
panteramatt 1 Report post Posted July 13, 2011 Thanx for that brian. I figured out the brake pedal but haven't had a chance to go back to the mc, way too hot out. The kit I got from csrp is the new one that uses the newer pbr calipers from a 99+ mustang since I already had a set laying around. My kit came with fittings and dennis said it was complete. Did your kit come with fittings? I called dennis but he doesn't act like he really cares to help anyone. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brianrupp78 10 Report post Posted July 14, 2011 Lucky!!!!!!!!!! Wish i was able to get what you got then... Yeah i got mine a year or two ago. I forget what the specific name was. how much was the one you got... it sounds better than mine... especially if you have all the fittings and everything. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brianrupp78 10 Report post Posted July 14, 2011 Oh mine came with one fitting which was not correct for my application... This always puzzled me because they knew it wasnt going to be correct for my application but they sent it anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
panteramatt 1 Report post Posted July 14, 2011 Think mine was like $750 or something like that but I already had my calipers. He said this kit will perform better than the KH kits. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SM69Mach 68 Report post Posted July 14, 2011 I did a similar swap putting disc brakes all around. I already had factory disc up front so I didn't need to change the MC or pedal, which sounds like I am glad I didn't have to. I actually mounted the PV on the rear axle right where the line splits to the rear brakes. I set it about half way in and so far it is working great. If I do any hard driving I may need to adjust slightly, but for street driving it is doing the job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lemon Owner 11 Report post Posted July 27, 2011 I am not sure if you still need the info but I just completed a CSRP swap to my 69 coupe, drum brake non power assisted. The version I have is the Kelsey Hayes style four piston calipers and power booster upgrade. After alot of umming and ahhhing I did not fit the proportioning valve at all. All I did was make new brake lines from the newly located master cylinder to the standard drum distribution block. I have had no problems with the back brakes locking and they seem to work just fine. If I did have a problem with locking I was told by a brake rebuilding shop to just reduce the size of my rear wheel cylinders. This is a cheap ($10 a cylinder?)and safe solution which does not require butchering the existing rear brake line to fit the valve. Also the Motor Transport Department does not like the fitment of little "taps" to the brake lines in Australia. Hope this helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
panteramatt 1 Report post Posted July 27, 2011 Wow thanx for the help lemon owner for your first post. Welcome to the site. I was also thinking of not installing the prop valve as it will be a huge headache and Im eventually going to go with rear discs anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lemon Owner 11 Report post Posted July 28, 2011 Yeah, the prop valve is a headache and if you can get away with not having it then why not! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davejvv 10 Report post Posted April 8, 2012 I am working on the CSRP manual drum to power disc swap in my 69 Mach 1 and now I am at the point where I mount the power booster and replace the manual brake pedal with the power brake pedal supplied with the kit. Has anyone done this? I am thinking that what I expected to be a simple pedal swap is much more than that. Do I need to pull the sterling column and the pedal assembly to do this? No directions in the kit for this part. Wanna' do this the most logical way and your assistance is greatly appreciated! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lemon Owner 11 Report post Posted April 10, 2012 All you have to do is turn yourself upside down under the dash and remove single bolt that holds the old pedal on. Put the new one into place about four inches higher (the holes are already there) and put that same bolt back through. It is that easy....... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bama70 10 Report post Posted April 12, 2012 Check the following supplier out. Lots of brake line fittings. http://www.fedhillusa.com/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
