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prayers1

Help getting rear drums off !!!!!!

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Bought the car after it sat for 4 years. I went to take the drums off and it wouldn't budge. I tried soaking it with PB Blaster, wire brushing around the axle and drum so that the PB can do it's thing, I even tried a sledge hammer to the drum. The axle to drum looks like its one piece but I know it's not.

 

I don't have a torch, just basic tools and I live in a rural area.

 

I haven't tried the adjusting nut, however the axle turns easy on both sides and I can't get both sides off.

 

What to do?

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Go to your local home store or hardware store & buy a small torch & a bottle of MAP gas, the yellow bottle. Heat it up a couple of time & I bet a couple of blows with a hammer will get them off.

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The motor and trans are out. I tied a strap to the car and pulled it around the yard (I have a few acres of land) and thought that would unfreeze the drums. Afterwards, the drums rotated free. I thought since they spun easy that I didn't need to mess with the adjuster. It's been a while since I last worked on drum brakes.

 

Also, I replaced the master cylinder yesterday, but could't open the 1/4" bleeder screw on the left front. It appears the prior PO stripped it and it's almost impossible to get at. I'll more than likely will need to replace the wheel cylinders. Time ran out yesterday, but I assume with front drum brakes since it's been ages since I've done something like this that I'd have to pull the bearing & drum off to get to the wheel cylinder????

 

I haven't had any of the drums off since owning the car (4 months) I'd like to replace all wheel cylinders, pads and if needed brake hardware. I just gotta get those drums off.

 

It'll be a few days before I can attempt anything, I'll use the above ideas and if anyone else has some thought , Please advise.

THANKS!

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Even if they turn freely, there could be a lip on the edge preventing the drums from sliding over the shoes. Back off the adjusters, soak the drum axle joint and the wheel lugs at the drum with your PB Blaster. Then, using a heavy punch or drift and hammer, smack the drum between the wheel lugs. That usually breaks it loose from the axle flange.

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On a budget for now. Just got the motor and trans rebuilt, next body and interior, so specialty items will have to come last.

 

RacerX, very good idea. I'll give a wack at it when I get back to the car.

 

Thanks for all replys!

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Even if they turn freely, there could be a lip on the edge preventing the drums from sliding over the shoes. Back off the adjusters, soak the drum axle joint and the wheel lugs at the drum with your PB Blaster. Then, using a heavy punch or drift and hammer, smack the drum between the wheel lugs. That usually breaks it loose from the axle flange.

 

:stupid:

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Well just got back and was able to take off the front and rear drums.

The front was able to come off after backing off the adjuster.

For the rear, I couldn't find the adjuster, so I had to pry the drum off a little at a time with 3 screwdrivers, tons of PB Blaster and wacks of the hammer.

 

Lucky for me that the rear was hard to get off. I found a cracked wheel cylinder, the adjuster star was in pieces and the brake pads fell to crumbs.

 

Since I just replaced the master cylinder, I was just going to bleed the brakes, throw the drivetrain in and go. Now I'll have to do an entire brake hardware, wheel cylinder and pad update. This will give me an excuse to paint the backing, drums and suspension.

 

Thank you RacerX and to all who replied. I'm sure during this build I'll be posting more help questions.

 

Have a Happy & Safe 4th of July!

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