sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 19, 2011 We put this hydraulic throwout bearing in my car, and it's giving us some trouble, and it's all we lack to drive the car. Once installed, it seemed to bleed normally, and work. You could feel the pedal doing work, and it would break over. The car would go in gear on the lift, and it seemed to work, although I didn't drive it. The next time we came back to the car, which was a couple days later, the pedal was gone. We began attempting to bleed it. The pedal never really "pumps up." When we open the bleed valve, the fluid is clear, with no air bubbles, and the pedal drops very little. MAYBE 1", although the pedal never really has any pressure. We have ran about 4 bottles of fluid through it with absolutely no change. When we start the car and try to put it in gear, it's like it's not working at all. We've been dealing with it for a few days now, and no matter how much we bleed it, nothing changes. McLeod tech is no help. Their only answer is, "keep bleeding it." I don't really think that's the answer here. Anyone have any ideas for something we are missing? We are open to any ideas. The next thing for us, is to pull the transmission back out, and take the system apart. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 19, 2011 We put this hydraulic throwout bearing in my car, and it's giving us some trouble, and it's all we lack to drive the car. Once installed, it seemed to bleed normally, and work. You could feel the pedal doing work, and it would break over. The car would go in gear on the lift, and it seemed to work, although I didn't drive it. The next time we came back to the car, which was a couple days later, the pedal was gone. We began attempting to bleed it. The pedal never really "pumps up." When we open the bleed valve, the fluid is clear, with no air bubbles, and the pedal drops very little. MAYBE 1", although the pedal never really has any pressure. We have ran about 4 bottles of fluid through it with absolutely no change. When we start the car and try to put it in gear, it's like it's not working at all. We've been dealing with it for a few days now, and no matter how much we bleed it, nothing changes. McLeod tech is no help. Their only answer is, "keep bleeding it." I don't really think that's the answer here. Anyone have any ideas for something we are missing? We are open to any ideas. The next thing for us, is to pull the transmission back out, and take the system apart. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
72Pstroke 10 Report post Posted May 19, 2011 Is the bleeder valve at the very top of the slave cyl? If it is not, it is possible for air to be trapped and not come out when you bleed it. What type of master cylinder and linkage are you using? Tim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
72Pstroke 10 Report post Posted May 19, 2011 Is the bleeder valve at the very top of the slave cyl? If it is not, it is possible for air to be trapped and not come out when you bleed it. What type of master cylinder and linkage are you using? Tim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 19, 2011 Yes, the bleed line is on top of the slave cylinder. It's a Willwood master cylinder that came with the kit from McLeod. We had to make the linkage from the M/C to the pedal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 19, 2011 Yes, the bleed line is on top of the slave cylinder. It's a Willwood master cylinder that came with the kit from McLeod. We had to make the linkage from the M/C to the pedal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted May 19, 2011 LAst time I ran across a problem with bleeding a hyd clutch assy, I took some clear tubing attached it to the bleeder and opened it slightly. The other end of the tube was placed in a jar sitting on the air cleaner lid so it was higher than the clutch master and pumped it till it pushed fluid into the jar equally as the petal movement. Pain in the butt, But it worked. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted May 19, 2011 LAst time I ran across a problem with bleeding a hyd clutch assy, I took some clear tubing attached it to the bleeder and opened it slightly. The other end of the tube was placed in a jar sitting on the air cleaner lid so it was higher than the clutch master and pumped it till it pushed fluid into the jar equally as the petal movement. Pain in the butt, But it worked. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 19, 2011 I just got off the phone with a different guy from McLeod, and he gave me a good direction to go. He said if the linkage to the actuation rod is too tight, it will not allow the plunger to come back to the snap ring to take new fluid out of the M/C. He said you should be able to spin that rod. Since they failed to even mention this in the directions, the linkage is pretty tight, because I didn't know. I guess we will check it out tonight, and see if that may be the problem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 19, 2011 I just got off the phone with a different guy from McLeod, and he gave me a good direction to go. He said if the linkage to the actuation rod is too tight, it will not allow the plunger to come back to the snap ring to take new fluid out of the M/C. He said you should be able to spin that rod. Since they failed to even mention this in the directions, the linkage is pretty tight, because I didn't know. I guess we will check it out tonight, and see if that may be the problem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted May 19, 2011 Are you bleeding it by pumping the pedal or are you pressure/vacuum bleeding it? If you are doing it by pumping the pedal, that is your problem. I recommend pressure bleeding it. If you need tips on that let me know. I have the McLeod hydro T/O and Wilwood M/C with the remote reservoir on my T56. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted May 19, 2011 Are you bleeding it by pumping the pedal or are you pressure/vacuum bleeding it? If you are doing it by pumping the pedal, that is your problem. I recommend pressure bleeding it. If you need tips on that let me know. I have the McLeod hydro T/O and Wilwood M/C with the remote reservoir on my T56. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 19, 2011 We have tried it both ways. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 19, 2011 We have tried it both ways. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 20, 2011 Well, it's getting pretty frustrating. We checked out what McLeod told us too, and started working on it. With the vacuum bleeder, we were able to remove all air from the system, without a doubt. There's nothing but clean fluid coming out. There is definite pedal pressure now. Once I pump it, and the bleeder is opened, the pedal moves down a bunch. It really feels as if it should be working, but the bearing just isn't releasing. With the tires off the ground, and the engine running, I can jam it into gear, and the tires start spinning, with the pedal pushed in. It just isn't working, and I honestly do not know what to do from here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 20, 2011 Well, it's getting pretty frustrating. We checked out what McLeod told us too, and started working on it. With the vacuum bleeder, we were able to remove all air from the system, without a doubt. There's nothing but clean fluid coming out. There is definite pedal pressure now. Once I pump it, and the bleeder is opened, the pedal moves down a bunch. It really feels as if it should be working, but the bearing just isn't releasing. With the tires off the ground, and the engine running, I can jam it into gear, and the tires start spinning, with the pedal pushed in. It just isn't working, and I honestly do not know what to do from here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
72Pstroke 10 Report post Posted May 20, 2011 I have been talking to McLeod about using one of their throwout brg/ slave cylinders for my toploader, and they need to know the measurement from the face of the bellhousing to pressure plate to get me the right assy. Have you gone through this with them? Evidently stack height is pretty critical with that setup. If yours is not the right brg for your stack height it may not have enough travel to release the clutch. Good luck! Tim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
72Pstroke 10 Report post Posted May 20, 2011 I have been talking to McLeod about using one of their throwout brg/ slave cylinders for my toploader, and they need to know the measurement from the face of the bellhousing to pressure plate to get me the right assy. Have you gone through this with them? Evidently stack height is pretty critical with that setup. If yours is not the right brg for your stack height it may not have enough travel to release the clutch. Good luck! Tim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gmachine 15 Report post Posted May 20, 2011 I don't know if you read my reply to a previous post for this same issue, but after fighting my hyd TO bearing for days, I manually extended it, opened the valve, had my son depress and hold the pedal just one time, and it was done. Using a 3/4 mc, there is about 5/8 inch extension, which is enough if you have the stack up correct. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gmachine 15 Report post Posted May 20, 2011 I don't know if you read my reply to a previous post for this same issue, but after fighting my hyd TO bearing for days, I manually extended it, opened the valve, had my son depress and hold the pedal just one time, and it was done. Using a 3/4 mc, there is about 5/8 inch extension, which is enough if you have the stack up correct. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted May 20, 2011 Can you visually see the throwout bearing moving after the system is fully bled with a helper pressing the clutch in? Any way to measure what throwout distance you are getting? Did you measure your "A" and "B" dimensions to get the proper bearing clearance to the pressure plate fingers? http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5260 Have you measured your M/C pushrod movement and compared it with the specs of the M/C? I believe my Wilwood requires 1.4" of stroke, so if you have your linkage set up and are only getting 0.5" stroke then you won't get enough fluid moving for the TO bearing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted May 20, 2011 Can you visually see the throwout bearing moving after the system is fully bled with a helper pressing the clutch in? Any way to measure what throwout distance you are getting? Did you measure your "A" and "B" dimensions to get the proper bearing clearance to the pressure plate fingers? http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5260 Have you measured your M/C pushrod movement and compared it with the specs of the M/C? I believe my Wilwood requires 1.4" of stroke, so if you have your linkage set up and are only getting 0.5" stroke then you won't get enough fluid moving for the TO bearing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 20, 2011 I have been talking to McLeod about using one of their throwout brg/ slave cylinders for my toploader, and they need to know the measurement from the face of the bellhousing to pressure plate to get me the right assy. Have you gone through this with them? Evidently stack height is pretty critical with that setup. If yours is not the right brg for your stack height it may not have enough travel to release the clutch.Good luck! Tim Yes, I can't even remember the numbers anymore. Seems like they wanted no more than .500, and we were at .300, which should make us good. It was quite a while ago when I made these measurements, but I have a pretty good feeling that when I call them today, they're going to tell me it's wrong. I don't know if you read my reply to a previous post for this same issue, but after fighting my hyd TO bearing for days, I manually extended it, opened the valve, had my son depress and hold the pedal just one time, and it was done. Using a 3/4 mc, there is about 5/8 inch extension, which is enough if you have the stack up correct. I'm not sure I follow what you're saying? You manually extended the slave cylinder? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 20, 2011 I have been talking to McLeod about using one of their throwout brg/ slave cylinders for my toploader, and they need to know the measurement from the face of the bellhousing to pressure plate to get me the right assy. Have you gone through this with them? Evidently stack height is pretty critical with that setup. If yours is not the right brg for your stack height it may not have enough travel to release the clutch.Good luck! Tim Yes, I can't even remember the numbers anymore. Seems like they wanted no more than .500, and we were at .300, which should make us good. It was quite a while ago when I made these measurements, but I have a pretty good feeling that when I call them today, they're going to tell me it's wrong. I don't know if you read my reply to a previous post for this same issue, but after fighting my hyd TO bearing for days, I manually extended it, opened the valve, had my son depress and hold the pedal just one time, and it was done. Using a 3/4 mc, there is about 5/8 inch extension, which is enough if you have the stack up correct. I'm not sure I follow what you're saying? You manually extended the slave cylinder? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 20, 2011 Can you visually see the throwout bearing moving after the system is fully bled with a helper pressing the clutch in? Any way to measure what throwout distance you are getting? Did you measure your "A" and "B" dimensions to get the proper bearing clearance to the pressure plate fingers? http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5260 Have you measured your M/C pushrod movement and compared it with the specs of the M/C? I believe my Wilwood requires 1.4" of stroke, so if you have your linkage set up and are only getting 0.5" stroke then you won't get enough fluid moving for the TO bearing. You can not see in the hole, and I dis take the measurements. I haven't measure the stroke we are getting, but the pedal pressure stops it from going any farther. Even if I couldn't push it full stroke, I can't push it anymore because of the pressure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites