McLeod Hyd T/O bearing

[sportsroof69 13]

Can you visually see the throwout bearing moving after the system is fully bled with a helper pressing the clutch in? Any way to measure what throwout distance you are getting? Did you measure your "A" and "B" dimensions to get the proper bearing clearance to the pressure plate fingers? http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5260

 

Have you measured your M/C pushrod movement and compared it with the specs of the M/C? I believe my Wilwood requires 1.4" of stroke, so if you have your linkage set up and are only getting 0.5" stroke then you won't get enough fluid moving for the TO bearing.

 

You can not see in the hole, and I dis take the measurements.

 

I haven't measure the stroke we are getting, but the pedal pressure stops it from going any farther. Even if I couldn't push it full stroke, I can't push it anymore because of the pressure.

[buening 63]

Well with that it sounds to me like you have binding issues if you cannot get full stroke from the M/C. You may need to unhook the transmission from the motor, slide the transmission back an inch or so (with hydraulics still hooked up), then press the pedal down and watch for bearing travel. Measure the travel to ensure you are getting full TO bearing travel (5/8" IIRC).

 

You either have a bearing issue or you have binding in your pedal linkage which is preventing full pedal travel. Can you confirm that you can get full pedal travel (measure stroke of M/C while doing this!) with the bleeder open? What is your pedal ratio? http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5262

 

What clutch are you using?

[buening 63]

Well with that it sounds to me like you have binding issues if you cannot get full stroke from the M/C. You may need to unhook the transmission from the motor, slide the transmission back an inch or so (with hydraulics still hooked up), then press the pedal down and watch for bearing travel. Measure the travel to ensure you are getting full TO bearing travel (5/8" IIRC).

 

You either have a bearing issue or you have binding in your pedal linkage which is preventing full pedal travel. Can you confirm that you can get full pedal travel (measure stroke of M/C while doing this!) with the bleeder open? What is your pedal ratio? http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5262

 

What clutch are you using?

[69gmachine 15]

Yes, with the trans removed and the bearing hanging down, I extended the TO bearing by hand.

 

However, as Buening said, you need to make sure you are getting full travel from your mc. Make sure it's not binding anywhere.

 

I mounted my MC where the hole was for the clutch push rod. That ends up a little low on the pedal and reduces the lever arm a bit, but it's not so hard that I would change it.

[69gmachine 15]

Yes, with the trans removed and the bearing hanging down, I extended the TO bearing by hand.

 

However, as Buening said, you need to make sure you are getting full travel from your mc. Make sure it's not binding anywhere.

 

I mounted my MC where the hole was for the clutch push rod. That ends up a little low on the pedal and reduces the lever arm a bit, but it's not so hard that I would change it.

[buening 63]

...and your clutch pedal goes near the floor without stopping correct? I have the Modern Driveline LF series kit with the fancy lever system on the linkage, and its designed so that once the clutch pedal reaches the floor it is at maximum stroke. If you guys do your own linkage, you need to check your M/C stroke so that you don't overextend your M/C and bearing. Many have to build a pedal stop to prevent this from happening.

[buening 63]

...and your clutch pedal goes near the floor without stopping correct? I have the Modern Driveline LF series kit with the fancy lever system on the linkage, and its designed so that once the clutch pedal reaches the floor it is at maximum stroke. If you guys do your own linkage, you need to check your M/C stroke so that you don't overextend your M/C and bearing. Many have to build a pedal stop to prevent this from happening.

[69gmachine 15]

I don't have a stop, and if I stood on it with all my might, yes I could bend the pushrod, but since I can fully release the cluthch near the end of normal travel, it's not necessary to press like a mad man.

[69gmachine 15]

I don't have a stop, and if I stood on it with all my might, yes I could bend the pushrod, but since I can fully release the cluthch near the end of normal travel, it's not necessary to press like a mad man.

[buening 63]

I've just always have been told that a pedal stop is needed to prevent the M/C from overextending.

 

sportsroof, here is a similar situation possibly: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/785365-mcleod-hydraulic-t-o-bearing.html

[buening 63]

I've just always have been told that a pedal stop is needed to prevent the M/C from overextending.

 

sportsroof, here is a similar situation possibly: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/785365-mcleod-hydraulic-t-o-bearing.html

[buening 63]

Also check the obvious, like making sure you have the correct hose orientation on your M/C. If you have the remote reservoir Wilwood type, the INLET is at the end of the M/C and the outlet is the angled port towards the firewall. http://wilwood.com/PDF/Flyers/fl95.pdf

[buening 63]

Also check the obvious, like making sure you have the correct hose orientation on your M/C. If you have the remote reservoir Wilwood type, the INLET is at the end of the M/C and the outlet is the angled port towards the firewall. http://wilwood.com/PDF/Flyers/fl95.pdf

[sportsroof69 13]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. The M/C will get full stroke. When the bleeder is opened, the pedal goes all the way to the floor. It's definitely hyd pressure that stops the pedal. I do not have a pedal stop yet, because there's no way to set one up, if the bearing doesn't work. Although, I don't really understand the need for one, when the pressure keeps you from being able to over actuate the M/C.

 

I'm using a Centerforce DF, and a Centerforce SFI flywheel. They are the same clutch and flywheel that have been in the car for a while.

 

All the line positions have been checked, rechecked, and triple checked...lol

 

McLeod is about to open, so I'm going to give them a call. I fully expect for them to tell me I measured wrong, which at this point, I'm not counting anything out. Unless they give some great insight to something, I guess tonight I'll pull the transmission back, and try to push the pedal and manually actuate the slave cylinder, like mentioned, and then re measure it to see if it's right.

[sportsroof69 13]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. The M/C will get full stroke. When the bleeder is opened, the pedal goes all the way to the floor. It's definitely hyd pressure that stops the pedal. I do not have a pedal stop yet, because there's no way to set one up, if the bearing doesn't work. Although, I don't really understand the need for one, when the pressure keeps you from being able to over actuate the M/C.

 

I'm using a Centerforce DF, and a Centerforce SFI flywheel. They are the same clutch and flywheel that have been in the car for a while.

 

All the line positions have been checked, rechecked, and triple checked...lol

 

McLeod is about to open, so I'm going to give them a call. I fully expect for them to tell me I measured wrong, which at this point, I'm not counting anything out. Unless they give some great insight to something, I guess tonight I'll pull the transmission back, and try to push the pedal and manually actuate the slave cylinder, like mentioned, and then re measure it to see if it's right.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Just some thoughts tossed out here and a word of caution, Make sure the measurements are correct.

Too much travel in the slave can cause the thrust bearing to be trashed.

 

If I read it correctly, you have petal pressure but not enough bearing travel to release clutch plate. If so then its time to start from scratch in the measuring.

Check the depth from the crank to a straight edge across the PP fingers, with this info check from the tip of the input shaft to the face of the throwout bearing it should be very close to same with clearence spec added.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Just some thoughts tossed out here and a word of caution, Make sure the measurements are correct.

Too much travel in the slave can cause the thrust bearing to be trashed.

 

If I read it correctly, you have petal pressure but not enough bearing travel to release clutch plate. If so then its time to start from scratch in the measuring.

Check the depth from the crank to a straight edge across the PP fingers, with this info check from the tip of the input shaft to the face of the throwout bearing it should be very close to same with clearence spec added.

[sportsroof69 13]

I called McLeod. They said exactly what I thought they would. Remeasure. I guess I'll pull it apart tonight, and see what I can find.

[sportsroof69 13]

I called McLeod. They said exactly what I thought they would. Remeasure. I guess I'll pull it apart tonight, and see what I can find.

[sportsroof69 13]

I slid the transmission back last night, and it appears that the piston is fully extended, just sitting there. You would think that the clutch would be disengaged at that point. I tried to push the piston back in, but couldn't. I cracked the hydraulic line, to release the pressure, and still couldn't push it in.

 

I would have kept messing with it, but the piston has brake fluid all over it, which tells me it's leaking. Once I saw that, I let the lift down, and killed brain cells the remainder of the night because if I would have continued to work on it, it would have involved a hammer, torch, and possibly a stick of dynamite.

 

 

Stupid $400 piece of McLeod junk.

[sportsroof69 13]

I slid the transmission back last night, and it appears that the piston is fully extended, just sitting there. You would think that the clutch would be disengaged at that point. I tried to push the piston back in, but couldn't. I cracked the hydraulic line, to release the pressure, and still couldn't push it in.

 

I would have kept messing with it, but the piston has brake fluid all over it, which tells me it's leaking. Once I saw that, I let the lift down, and killed brain cells the remainder of the night because if I would have continued to work on it, it would have involved a hammer, torch, and possibly a stick of dynamite.

 

 

Stupid $400 piece of McLeod junk.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Well that is an indication of wrong measurment, as the bearing has been over extended and only thing that kept it in was the PP fingers.

 

Time to start over and remeasure it all from scratch.

Just make sure you don't go the other way too far, as an overextension against the PP will trash the thrust bearing of your engine.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Well that is an indication of wrong measurment, as the bearing has been over extended and only thing that kept it in was the PP fingers.

 

Time to start over and remeasure it all from scratch.

Just make sure you don't go the other way too far, as an overextension against the PP will trash the thrust bearing of your engine.

[sportsroof69 13]

If I could afford a built AOD, I'd end this whole headache.

[sportsroof69 13]

If I could afford a built AOD, I'd end this whole headache.