Need some advice - to restore or not to restore ...

[iveka 10]

Below are some interior photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[iveka 10]

And the exterior.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[iveka 10]

If I can't get this car sold in the next month or so, I would like to start taking it apart over the winter and working on fixing what I can and getting the rest fixed professionally. Where should I start on taking it apart and assessing what I need to have done?

[dzahm 10]

I would get it to run and drive/stop 1st. THEN take it apart for rust repair, then bondo, then paint, then interior. Start system by system (fuel- clean gas tank, check gas line, check fuel pump, then rebuild carb if necessary, then repeat for cooling system etc) Read every forum you can, find a local mustang guy(pref one that can weld), and get catalogs so you can start making lists of things you need. You will need 1000+ pics even of parts you think you will remember how to assemble. I WOULD NOT TAKE THIS CAR APART 1st- many projects start and end like this. You might be able to take some auto classes where they let you bring your car in and work on it (with killer tools and a shop teacher to guide you) Good luck

[iveka 10]

Quick question: What is that yellow wire coming off the battery cable (the red cable)?

 

Edited October 15, 2010 by iveka

[foothilltom 33]

I don't know, but my guess is for the ignition box (the red aftermarket gizmo on the driver's side of the engine compartment) or perhaps an aftermarket tach?

 

After looking at my wiring diagram (you really ought to get comfortable with one of those if you're going to undertake this project), my guess is your starting problem is due to a bad ignition switch. The ignition switch applies power to your starter solenoid, which obviously applies power to the starter itself. Since you can shunt across the solenoid (taking the switch out of the equation), I believe everything else is wired correctly.

 

I'd suggest you comb these threads for a "how to" on ignition switch replacement.

 

You're right, your interior is in good shape. The rust on this car looks pretty bad, unfortunately.

 

Good luck.

[iveka 10]

OK, quick question. I found this listing on Ebay:

 

1969 Ford Mustang Mach1 M-Code

 

That car has everything my car needs and missing what my car has. Are parts for the fastback and coupe interchangeable, such as the interior and other items. I am thinking my car may make a decent donor for this shell.

 

Any thoughts?

[bigperm2 10]

That yellow wire was not originally there. A lot of battery cables have that pigtail on them though.

 

Generally, from the doors forward is somewhat interchangable. Most of your interior is not, especially since machs are deluxe interior, and your coupe is standard. If you go the standard interior route, you still have to find all the rear trim and seats. But you do have a head start on the dash. I don't even think the door glass is interchangable.

[Fordrevhead 29]

Your red "ground" wire with yellow lead is from some other vehicle and the yellow was powering something. This wire should be black. The hot wire (that should be red) is the one going to the solenoid. This one looks braided but I hope at least has a clear sheath on it as it could short out if not.

[iveka 10]

I am going to try and get this thing started in the next couple weekends. It has been sitting for 4-5 years now without being started. It has gas in it. Will it be OK to start it with that old gas still in the lines?

[dzahm 10]

Old gas prob won't hurt- but it probably won't start. If the carb isn't clogged- it might be once you spin it over. Long way- drain tank, lines, replace filter etc. Short way- disconnect fuel line at carb, rig up a small bottle, or lawn mower gas tank with fresh gas to carb fuel inlet (make sure this is higher than the carb as you are using gravity to "feed" the carb. BTW 5 yr old gas is great for putting on weeds- Oh wait I didn't say that

[iveka 10]

So I found a buyer on craigslist for the mustang. Paperwork, title and cash have changed hands. Everyone happy. But he wanted to try and get it started yesterday and drive it home (very short distance). Made some progress but still not starting. So I suggested we push it out of my garage so he could work on it when I was not there or tow it. We put it in neutral and tried pushing, but nothing is turning. Brakes seized up? Parking brake is off. We pushed hard enough that the tires squeeled across the floor.

 

I really want the car out of the garage. Will it destroy the brakes or my garage floor if we get a rollback to pull it out of the garage? Any suggestions?

[stangs-R-me 121]

A roll back pulled my brother's 2 stangs ('69 Conv & '79 Hatchback) out of the 2 garages he had them stored in for 20 years. All 4 brakes eventually free'd up on the '79 during the ordeal, but I think at least 1 of the 69's drums never did so it got dragged all the way out of the garage & up the roll back.

 

If one or all the drums stay locked up, you'll have some black marks on your garage floor for a while and the brakes obviously need a complete overhaul anyway so no big deal there either.

 

Doug

[iveka 10]

I like the idea of the rollback better than trying to get it started and then using the power of the car to break the brakes loose. I have visions of the mustang careening out of the garage (or through the garage) and out into the street.

[CandyAppleRed 10]

Pull the wheels and beat on the drums with a rubber hammer.