CandyAppleRed

The Mach 1 has been sold. A sincere thank you to all that have shown interest.

69 Mach 1 project with all the grunt work finished. Tons of parts included. Click link for full description and 96 photos of car, engine, transmission and parts. Thanks! http://greenbay.craigslist.org/cto/3203763401.html

As others have said. Use a complete paint system. Don't have layers of primers/paint from different manufacturers. It's asking for trouble. If at all possible use an etch primer, epoxy primer and so on from the same manufacturer.

I have nothing against SPI but that's just a bit odd. Was that an auto paint store or a house paint store?

Etch primer is awesome stuff. But it's not intended to be a protective coating. It is intended to neutralize microscopic corrosion that begins forming as soon as metal is bared, and to bond to the metals surface in preparation for a seal coat, typically epoxy. If you are only applying one coat and expecting it to protect the metal for a period of time then you will want to go with an epoxy. If you want the best possible outcome for your final paint job in my opinion use PPG etch followed by PPG epoxy following their instructions. Your metal will be sealed and protected.

What did RBB have to say about the photos?

I seem to remember seeing a form of fiber optic extension for IR controlled items. In fact I think I have one in the basement somewhere. Basically a little lens that sticks over the IR detector on the unit, then a "wire" to an IR pick-up you stick where it's needed.

POR15, good stuff. Just don't use it for face paint! :clown:

Unless you have a lot of room between the bar and the bushing you would also need to cut some type of groove in the bushing for the grease to follow.

Congrats on your decision to come to the Ford side! And, it's a Mach 1... Keep the 4 speed!!!

I may be in the minority, but, it just seems there's much less potential for damage, and it's much easier to install the engine/bell housing and bolt up the transmission after. That big chunk of iron in close proximity to all that sheet metal and fresh paint... Scares the bejeebers outta me.

That's how mine worked as well. Just flexed them and most of it fell right off. Some spots I tapped on the back side and it fell off. I would try that first, while it's brittle, then if some is still hanging on use something to soften.

I would not offer advice to him on carb adjustments. I make no claim as to my expertise. I only posted because like others, this is contrary to what I believed for a long time. And the opposite condition would make even less sense to me. If rich is white, would a lean condition leave the ceramic black and fouled? To me anyway, that just sounds like there has been a rift in the time/space continuum.

I guess it is difficult to teach an old dog new tricks. I have to believe "valid for track only" means what it says. On a street driven vehicle taking a plug reading only after WOT seems invalid. I would be looking for plug condition after the engines intended use. If your engine only sees WOT on rare occasions why use that to judge plug reading. You would want to see the plugs condition after it's normal use. At least that's what I would think....

It also says "This is valid for track only (not street driving)".