70 bolt in glass issues

[Rcodenewf 44]

I know this topic has been discussed and probably beaten to death before and i've researched a ton of discussions on this on various forums.

 

I just installed 1970 bolt in glass into my 69 fastback. The drivers side glass is aftermarket but the passenger side is original. Both have the same issues.

 

I have the correct brackets at the lower portion bolting it onto the glass with the correct insulators in between the glass and the brackets.

 

The C channels are C9Z part numbers originally from my car but are identical to the D0Z C channels as i have both here. The nylon sliders are brand new.

 

The slider tubes are in correctly 'leaning toward the back' when correctly installed.

I've verified that the sliders are marked L and R on the bottom.

 

The problem is that the the top of the glass is leaning in way too far and bypassing the rubber. When the window is raised further it contacts the rubber way before the door is actually closed.

 

I've loosened the bolts at the bottom of the door and slid the adjustment towards the inside of the car to the max to get it to tilt outwards but it still isn't enough.

 

Initially I suspected the aftermarket drivers glass but the passenger side does the same.

 

On another forum i see a fellow took out the tubular sliders , cut the base off and indexed them 1" to regain adjustability and did the same at the top.

 

Am i missing something here? Any help would be appreciated....thanks...john

[mikem 13]

Same problem here my friend. I wish i had an answer for you and me both. I bought aftermarket glass and the drivers side just would not adjust outward enough, just like yours. I finally gave up, reglued my 69 glass in the channels and reinstalled it. It lines up just fine. I used 69 regulators and 70 regulators to see if that made a difference and it didn't. I used 69 and 70 "c" channels but that made no difference either. Hopefully someone knows the answer and has a detailed method to remedy the problem.

[Black_69_FB 49]

Well it looks like an epidemic, because I'm in the same boat too.

 

I was wondering if it might be because of aftermarket glass or 69 vs 70 regulators, but it looks like mikem has already debunked that theory. Guess I'll find out if the Nu-Relics power windows fix the problem, as I should be installing a set in the next few weeks.

[mikem 13]

Hey Black 69, let us know how that works out. I would love to do the same.

[Black_69_FB 49]

Hey Black 69, let us know how that works out. I would love to do the same.

 

If it fixes it, I'll be shouting from the rooftops. But you'll have to be patient, I'm slow :-)

[Rcodenewf 44]

Hey Black_69_FB: What's this Nu-Relics thing a ma jig???

[Black_69_FB 49]

Hey Black_69_FB: What's this Nu-Relics thing a ma jig???

 

Power window kit:

link

[Daves69Coupe 10]

So I started the process of putting my windows back in so I can re-skin my doors. After messing around with the doors for a couple hours I figured I post a few pics to make sure I had all the parts i needed to re-assemble the doors. First of I have to different types of glass in my car, ones a 69 and ones a 70.

 

The first pic is of everything I have to put the 69 window back in. Look like im missing anything?

 

The 2 pics after are for the 70, the last one being the pic of when I took it apart.

[Big Secz 26]

So I started the process of putting my windows back in so I can re-skin my doors. After messing around with the doors for a couple hours I figured I post a few pics to make sure I had all the parts i needed to re-assemble the doors. First of I have to different types of glass in my car, ones a 69 and ones a 70.

 

The first pic is of everything I have to put the 69 window back in. Look like im missing anything?

 

The 2 pics after are for the 70, the last one being the pic of when I took it apart.

 

 

The vertical bar that you have a "?" by is the equalizer bar. That bar is what provides support to the arm of the window regulator that bolts to the front of the window. This bar has room to adjust up or down. If it's up too far the back of the window winds up farther than the front of the window. If it's down too far the front of the window winds up farther than the back. Adjust this bar as necessary so that your window stays level as it is going up. There should be equal pressure to both the front and back of the window.

 

The "C" shaped brackets should both be facing the same direction toward the rear of the car.

 

The inward and outward lean only has one adjustment and that is the nut at the bottom of the door that supports the window guides (the round poles that bolt to the top and bottom of the door). These window guides are different on a '70 than a '69 which is why I think everyone is having issues. If I were you I would try to get my hands on a set of window guides from a '70 and try installing those. I didn't know they were different until recently when I discovered that one of my window guides was sheered off at the bottom and I contacted a friend of mine who restores Mustangs. He told me that there is a slight difference and luckily he had the replace guide that I needed out of one of his parts cars.

[Daves69Coupe 10]

i know the guides work bc the window worked perfectly before I removed it to clean up the door frame.

[Daves69Coupe 10]

the ? mark was actually referencing the round tab that sits on tracks on the 69 assembly. theres no wheres for this to sit on the 70 assembly

[Max Power 74]

I put the bolt-in glass using all the 69 guides and I didn't have near the problems others have had. They were close, but a little bit off. When I sent the car to the body shop this spring, they had everything apart and they got things adjusted really close. Close enough for me anyway. It's a fair weather car as it is, and these cars were never perfect from the factory anyway.

[Rcodenewf 44]

According to my Ford Micropiche both the 69 and 70 rails carry the same part number...John

[Daves69Coupe 10]

I was able to get the 70 glass in and it all works. So ill be doing the 69's glue in glass tonight. I have a question regarding the lining up of the glued in glass. Just wondering where the front and rear of the glass should line up. Should the chrome trim off the window line up right off the back of the bracket. AutoCad pic to show what I mean.

[Daves69Coupe 10]

nvm found a pic

[Fordrevhead 29]

I think Dave has hit the nail on the head... if you dont locate the mounting brackets to the glass correctly it throws the entire travel path off and no matter how you adjust it wont work right. On the ones I have done I measured off the old windows and located everything in the same spots. Still... a pita to adjust but at least you dont run out of adjustment.

[Rcodenewf 44]

I spoke with Dan Nolan at Nolans Mustang Barn. He suggested i take some of the curve out of the upper 5 inches of the sliders as they bend inwards.

 

That made sense to me as these vehicles over the years have had their doors shut by the top of the windows.

 

After bending it gently the windows are worse. When the windows are rolled down about 2-3 cranks the outside gap between the glass and the door is huge and on the inside the glass is beginning to scrape the door frame.

 

Installing the window felts would prove useless in this scenario as there is pressure on the glass inwards...that's what has me stumped.

 

Both adjustments at the bottom of the door are at their max inwards .

 

Getting pretty sick of this stang....:confused1:

[Fordrevhead 29]

that's a good idea too. whatever works!

[Rcodenewf 44]

While waiting for new roofrail weatherstrip to arrive, i decided to have another go at aligning these windows.

 

Now with the door weatherstrip and bumper stops installed it would appear that the doors are slightly out of adjustment.

 

On the passenger door the upper left (door handle) body seam is sitting in and the lower left portion of the door is sticking out.

 

I'm thinking that the outward lower left would certainly cause the top of the door to tilt inwards which could lead to my glass going in further....sound logical?

 

So, to bring out the upper left of the passenger door i would have to loosen the lower front hinge on the door itself and move the door slightly inwards. And the reverse: to get the lower left of the door to move in flush with the quarter panel the upper right would have to move out by loosening the top hinge on the door.

 

Too bad the body shop didn't align them correctly prior to painting and then reassemble them in that position.

 

I'll tape the fenders/doors and give it a try. I know the fender may have to be tweaked after all this.

 

.....John

[Black_69_FB 49]

Hey Black 69, let us know how that works out. I would love to do the same.

 

Mike, I did not have the problem with window alignment to the same extent with the power regulators in. In fact, I think it would have been close enough to work with a little time put into adjusting. The roof rail weatherstrip is new, so it's still a little stiff, but I think if I were to let it sit with the windows rolled up it would help 'train' it a little over time.

 

However.

 

I had to pull it back out because the regulator arm hits the motor, at least on the driver's side. Did not bother with the passenger side because it was getting late & my buddy who was helping had to take off.

 

I will say that we did have to adjust the guides all the way in at the bottom to pull the top of the glass out as much as possible. But even so, I would not expect the regulator arm to hit the motors as they are still within the factory range of adjustment.

 

I put the manual cranks back in for now. The passenger side has a 70 regulator, and is behaving better than the driver's side, which has a 69 regulator and also wants to hit where the tab is that the helper spring hooks on when rolling the glass down. Maybe a 70 regulator would help.

 

I'll have to see what can be done to make these power regulators work.

 

I'll tape the fenders/doors and give it a try. I know the fender may have to be tweaked after all this.

 

.....John

 

John, have you had a chance to get to this yet? Interested to see if this fixes things.

[Rcodenewf 44]

Hello. I've been away from it for a while but again today I had a go at it.

 

I came away from it very, very frustrated. I've changed the regulator to 70, the guides, checked the vertical runs to ensure the right angle and the fact that they were oriented in the door correctly.

 

The result is that the window rolls up into position smoothly. However the glass is leaning inwards touching or near touching the inner skin...moreso at the front.

 

The window felt is on the outside of the glass on the door and there is a definite gap as the window is tilted in.

 

Both vertical runs are pulled to the inside but one thing i've noticed is that this only changes the inner or outer tilt of the very top of the glass.

My problem is right at the door edge.

The glass is not centered in the gap and when the door is attempted to be closed the top of the glass touches the weatherstrip long before the door is even near the latch.

 

I've examined this long and hard and i'm wondering if in fact the C bracket needs a thicker gasket in between it and the bracket. This way, when the window is rolled up the bracket will be pushed towards the inner door skin and where it pokes through the gap in the door it should go outward.

 

I base this on the spot where the window stops and the C channel comes to rest. That is the pivot point.

 

I have a fairly thin gasket between the C channels and the bracket at the moment.

 

Can anyone tell me what the thickness of the original gasket was?

I see on the mustang monthly article that they used rubber baseboard...that would certainly be thick wouldn't it?

 

Any thought or suggestions are of course welcome.

 

I'm beginning to think this aftermarket glass might be curved wrong.

 

thanks....John

Edited September 30, 2010 by Rcodenewf

[69gmachine 15]

I seriously doubt the glass is curved wrong. I have original 70 glass and regulators, and I have the same problem as everyone else. When I picked it up from the body shop way back when I first restored it, they had it lined up fairly well. Since then I've removed the doors (can't even remember why) and I obviously didn't put them back exactly where they were. I can't roll them up all the way, although the passenger side is not as bad as the driver's side. Wind noise is absolutely awful at 70 mph.

 

I've been planning to change them out for tinted glass this winter, so I'm going to be going through the same pain as everyone else. I sure hope someone comes up with some detailed instructions by then!

[Rcodenewf 44]

Well...I think i have it aced. After changing every component inside the door i came to the conclusion that the top of the vertical runs are the issue.

 

My problem was that when the window rolled up into it's correct position the glass was touching the inner skin of the door. Not allowing the inside window fuzzy to be put into place and certainly not allowing the window to rest correctly against the weatherstrip.

 

Actually the glass touched the weatherstrip well before the door came in contact with the door striker.

 

I solved the problem by removing the vertical rods. I scribed a witness line on the bracket edge and on the tube itself.

I then cut the upper bracket off clean with a hacksaw and then lined up the witness marks but moved the tube outwards on the bracket roughly 1/4 inch.

 

I tacked the tube at 12, 6, 9 and 3 o'clock just so i could verify the positioning.

 

Upon bolting the tube back into the car i could easily see that it moved the glass outward away from the inner skin.

 

A few small adjustments at the bottom. A few adjustments fore and aft and the glass fit perfectly against the new weatherstrip with the interior door fuzzies in place.

 

Tomorrow i'll do the same thing with the passenger side .

 

To add to this, having taken the 'guts' out of this door so many times, i rolled the window down to gain access to the upper tube bracket bolt. The lower bolt at the bottom of the door was removed along with the C bracket and the window was cranked back up. I could then easily remove one vertical tube, do the modification and reinstall it without taking out the window brackets and regulator.

 

.....thanks and best regards to all who threw suggestions my way.

 

John

[Black_69_FB 49]

John, thanks for posting the update - and I'm glad you seem to have it conquered :biggrin:

 

However, could you please elaborate on this part a little?

 

I scribed a witness line on the bracket edge and on the tube itself.

 

I just want to make sure I understand exactly what you are doing here.

[69gmachine 15]

John,

 

If you could take some pictures when you do the passenger side that would really be great!

Edited October 5, 2010 by 69gmachine