cylinder head advice

[alex69 10]

Hi guys,

 

I'm after some advice for my 69 mustang, I've been having some trouble with worn valve guides and the heads. Basically there is a knock when the engine is under load or cold, it's really annoying me. I've had a specialist look at it, it's not a bottom end issue it's a worn valve guide(s), and he wants to repair them.

 

I figured though for a little extra I could buy a new pair of complete heads. I have a (1968 coded) 302, hydraulic lifters, as far as i know it's stock in terms of cam and everything else. I'll have to get everything measured up (cam lift, valve clearance etc), but does anyone know of a shop in california or the west coast that will sell a decent pair of complete, maybe alloy heads for about US$650?

 

I'm in Sydney, Australia, but the parts here are much much more expensive, and i'm on a bit of a budget (time and money) before i go into the military :) So if anyone had some advice that would be awesome!!

 

Thanks heaps,

Alex

[Moteaux 10]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUSTANG-GT40-GT-40-HEADS-SBF-302-351W-ROLLER-ROCKERS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53dd5c76fcQQitemZ360196110076QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

This is just an example from ebay. For aluminum fully assembled, probably expect to spend approx $850 and up new for a pair.

 

I am thinking the weight of the heads for shipping from California to Australia may possibly offset any savings over purchasing locally, depending on your local prices for these type parts.

Edited October 13, 2009 by Moteaux

[S code 69 13]

Are you burning oil? if it's guides you should be smoking, on warm start up for sure. a ticking noise could be slack in the valve train and that can be cured without messing with the heads. knocking is usually bottom end.

 

If you're sure it's in the top end considering what shipping would cost I'd think you'd be better off rebuilding your heads, besides that way you know for sure what you've got.

[alex69 10]

hey guys,

 

thanks moteaux, i agree with you that it'll cost a bit to get the heads here, but i think the availability of decent low priced heads (in the US) will mean i'll get better heads for what i pay.

 

And yeah S code 69, someone told me about the unusual smoking from worn valves, funny because my car hardly produces smoke at all. but i have had it looked at, it's def not a con rod or main bearing knock, so i'm 90% sure it's up the top. I've tightened down the lifters to stop any valve chatter but that hasn't made a difference. I'm pretty fed up with it, it's really stopping me driving and enjoying the car, and i'm getting a lot of conflicting advice. It doesn't help that the mustang isn't a local car (but you'd be surprised how many of them there are over here) so finding a true expert is a bit tricky.

 

I know it would be nice to get the heads redone, but sometimes i feel i should start afresh with the heads. Hmm think i might do some more research and get 100% sure of what the problem is, too many maybes and potential different solutions!!

 

Thanks for the posts

Alex

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i would recommend just fixing your original heads if that's the problem. if you don't drive it that much maybe they can knurl the guides to get you thru a couple of years.

 

if you are anything like me, you will head down a slippery slope. i pulled out my 289, with the plan of simply freshening up the gaskets. that turned in to a complete rebuild, ported heads, all new valve train, induction, etc. my 351W was going to get freshened up, and has now turned into me buying the parts that should push 550 hp.

 

in any case be careful. you'll buy a new set of heads with new springs and everything installed. you will then tell yourself that you can't install those worn rockers on those new heads, then you won't want to install those worn pushrods in those new rockers, then you won't want those new pushrods in those worn lifters...

[BIGDOG466 10]

push rod length needs checked.

[S code 69 13]

If your guides are so shot you can hear it you should smoke like a Mexican deisel, look at everything else first.

[BIGDOG466 10]

Why I say push rods is if the rocker arm geometry is off it will wear the guide real fast, since the guides are softer than the valve. Replace them and it will happen again. The pushrods set the geometry if not correct the rocker will side load the valve.

[SlimeGold 69 15]

Is the engine fairly new or does it have alot of miles on it? I personaly have never seen guides so wore that they knock (not to say it's not possible), like others say it usualy causes smoke, mostly when warm. If it's a new engine that wore out the guides fast then the push-rod/ rocker geometry could be a cause.

 

A cold/load knock sounds like more of a piston problem like a wrist pin, cracked or broke skirt or just plain piston slap from wear on a older engine. Or on the other hand is it a knock or is it pinging when under a load? A noise like pinging from detonation or timing problem could also be the cause. If your motor has alot of miles and is making strange noises, putting new heads on will only put more strain on a weak bottom end. Really consider a good engine health check-up, timing check and tune before throwing money into heads IMO. I know you have already had it checked out but the valve guide diagnosis sounds a little odd.

Edited October 20, 2009 by SlimeGold 69

[69RavenConv 286]

Heh