Angel 24 Report post Posted July 6, 2009 so i installed a 1 1/8in. front sway bar back in february and it works great. the other day as i was pulling up my drive way, and i heard a "thunk" coming from my suspension. so i checked it out and this is what i found. the end link on the driver side broke right through the lower control arm mounting hole. ive got the front lowered almost 3" so when the car is on the ground, the sway bar is only about an inch away from hitting the chassis. i guess i took a hard dip and when the bar hit the chassis, the impact was transferred to the endlink and broke through the hole in the arm(weakest point). i never had a problem with the stock sway bar but this one is significantly thicker. i just took the end link off on the driver side but i was thinking about installing a shorter end link to increase the clearance. u guys think it will work? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Justafordguy 10 Report post Posted July 6, 2009 I would think shorter links would solve the problem. You could also fabricate spacers for the frame mounts. Looks like you will need a new lower arm also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ForceFed70 14 Report post Posted July 6, 2009 Ouch. The shorter endlinks will help. Be careful tho. Those endlinks are ment to pivot front/back a little as the suspension geometry changes. When you shorten the links, they need to pivot at a greater angle to make up for the shorter link. There is only so much movement in those links as it's the bushings that allow for the movement. Moving the frame mounts really isn't an option. But if you had a way to lower the link mount on the control arm (perhaps by boxing the control arm and mounting the link to the bottom side of the box?) that would be ideal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted July 6, 2009 Ouch. The shorter endlinks will help. Moving the frame mounts really isn't an option. But if you had a way to lower the link mount on the control arm (perhaps by boxing the control arm and mounting the link to the bottom side of the box?) that would be ideal. why's that? I have made spacer blocks before. My Fox Body has milled steel spacer blocks with custom length end links. Wild setup that works amazingly. The bar is 1-1/4" I think, maybe 1-3/8", aftermarket 4130 chrome moly for a Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, but I got it for $20, lol. You probably know this... but install the bar and bushings with the suspension loaded. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ForceFed70 14 Report post Posted July 7, 2009 (edited) why's that? I have made spacer blocks before. My Fox Body has milled steel spacer blocks with custom length end links. Wild setup that works amazingly. The bar is 1-1/4" I think, maybe 1-3/8", aftermarket 4130 chrome moly for a Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, but I got it for $20, lol. See the crude drawing I've posted below. This is from the side view (picture you are looking at the sway bar from the side of the car with the wheel removed). Blue line is the control arm mounting point. Purple line is the end link Green line represents the sway bar Red dot is the sway bar mounting point. Ideally the green line (swaybar) would be level when the suspension is loaded, but since he's lowered the car it's at an angle. You can see that if you were to lower the swaybar mounting point it would make this angle even worse. If anything, you want to move the mounting point "up" but that would require notching the frame rail. Edited July 7, 2009 by ForceFed70 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlimeGold 69 15 Report post Posted July 7, 2009 (edited) I don't see how he could have much suspension travel left anyways. A 3 inch drop is alot ( with a stock suspension set-up). Or am I wrong? If it where mine I would raise it back up about a inch or so. Looks like the brake line has been rubbing on the sway bar. Might want to rework that also. Edited July 7, 2009 by SlimeGold 69 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted July 7, 2009 Hey thanks guys. You are all pretty much right about what you're saying. Forcefed, you're right about the angle getting worse if i add spacers to the mount. As you can see in the picture,the front of the bar is angled down towards the floor. At first, what you said made sense. Your rendition is very accurate. However, the point of intersection is not at the mounting point, its about half way between the mount and the end link. If i were to notch the frame, i think it would be easier to notch it at the point of intersection. Dont you think? Revhead, adding spacers to the mount would lower the bar and yes, it would give me some clearance. Only reason why im a bit hesitant to do that is because its easier to just use a shorter end link. imo. But would adding a spacer be safe? I know thats what you did so obviously its not going to kill me. But would that be similar to using those long shackles in the back? You know the ones that allow you to raise the rear depending on what hole you use? Those shackles can allow the leafs to move sideways on a hard turn. Would adding spacers have a similar effect? Slimegold, you're right, i dont have much travel after the drop. Its not 3", its close but im just guessing. I cut 1 and 2/3's of a coil off, so if half a coil is approximately a 1" drop, then thats how i came to that conclusion. I do know that the bump stop is put to use because when ever i look under the car, the bump stop looks like its been wiped and the upper control arm is filthy except for where the bump stop hits. I have the stock coils so im planning to replace them with 620's in hope that the stiffer springs will keep the car from hitting the bump stop. I got the sway bar and the lower control arm from mustangs plus so i called them and asked for advice. I asked about using shorter end links and they asked me to email pics. so i did. havent heard back from them yet. Thanks guys for your input. I really appreciate it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted July 7, 2009 Sorry, I didnt mean lowering the bar in this case was best. :huh: I thought you were saying it was never an option. In my case I was using a bar not intended for the car so the shape was off. As far as strength, that's why I machined solid steel mounts, they weigh a couple pounds a piece but they dont move. The bolt holes are a tight slip fit, and I used long grade 8 bolts. Of course the weak point is the mounting but I dont have any rust there and the mounting on a Fox is even stronger. I also have a lower frame brace and a Strut tower brace. I agree that the shorter end link and reworking of the brake line is best in this case. Actually if you could raise the mounting of the bar it would help, lol. If you did some geometry using the measurements of the LCA, spring change and end link mounting position you could calculate how much it needs to change. My guess would be around 1 to 1-1/2". Seems like the spring manufacturer should tell you if they've done their homework at all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted July 7, 2009 btw, nice looking car! The front would be a little low for driving in my neck of the woods though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PennStateStang 11 Report post Posted August 27, 2009 whats the best way to install the sway bar link bolts? About 6 months ago, I was driving on the highway and the driver side nut fell off and the whole bolt, rubber bushings, etc. went along with it. I got a new set of bolts and all. I'm having trouble getting enough of the thread through place the nut on. thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted August 27, 2009 loosen the other side. If that doesnt help remove the center bushing clamps because when installing a new bar you always tighten the end links before the center clamps. I suppose you could also use a ratchet strap to hold the bar down to the lower control arm too. Oh, and always mount a sway bar with the suspension loaded! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PennStateStang 11 Report post Posted August 27, 2009 i'll have to take off the center bushings because I am of the mind set "when one bolt goes, replace all the bolts". Totally forgot about the suspension loaded part. Can you still install the link bolts when the car is on the ground? I haven't tried, so I don't know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted August 27, 2009 ditto nice ride!!:tongue_smilie: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted August 28, 2009 i'll have to take off the center bushings because I am of the mind set "when one bolt goes, replace all the bolts". Totally forgot about the suspension loaded part. Can you still install the link bolts when the car is on the ground? I haven't tried, so I don't know. you could... I usually just jack the car, remove the wheels and jack stand or block the LCA (clear of the end link bolts). In theory you should raise the rear the same so the suspension is level loaded as if it was sitting on the ground. The idea is to clamp the center bushings in the normal driving position. So do what you have to do to install the end links, then just load before clamping the center bushings. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PennStateStang 11 Report post Posted August 28, 2009 thanks. i'll give it a go this weekend and post when I'm done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
