radiators

[mid-tn-mustang 10]

I have noticed that the standard radiators are 24"x16". How are you fitting the the larger aluminums in. Do you have to modify the support system or such. I see people mentioning that they have 27" wide and 19" tall ones and was just wondering what was involved. thanks

[MAD IN NC 21]

I picked up the BeCool special from Summit which was 20" high x 26" wide for $199..... Goal is to get the car running now with minimal cutting so I modified to mount the radiator over the existing cowl until I decide later to cut and pull it back. First I want to understand the heat loading dynamics and see how she runs first before further modding.

 

I made the mounts to bolt to the bottom and the sides and it laid in without cutting. 1 on bottom, 1 each side with Velcro on inside of brackets to prevent metal to metal rubbing. All mounts aluminum. The electric fan due to the March setup became a pusher on the outside versus a puller inside the engine compartment.... When I finalize I will cut the cowl and change the fan to a puller eventually, after everything is dialed in....

 

So far as little as she has run no problems!

 

Pics are attached as best as I could get them as she is on a lift this week......

 

Good luck!

[mid-tn-mustang 10]

Thanks, looks good. Is the height no an issue since the stock radiators are 16" and yours is 20"?

[MAD IN NC 21]

The new 20" radiator required a fabbing of a bracket where it would sit on the two frame members that join under the cowl. A stock radiator will bolt on the cowl on the original mounting wholes but the after market one I went with had to drop all the way to the bottom.

 

The car came with a 351W If it is a big block the radiator will drop to the bottom of the cowl and mount differently - sort of like the way I retrofitted the new one but with two mounting brackets - one on each side

 

Here is a link to one of the mounting hardware options

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3556,31_Radiator-Mounting-Hardware.html

 

For the hose - I went with the flex hose

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/48-STAINLESS-RADIATOR-HOSE-KIT-FORD-CHEVY-MOPAR-CHROME_W0QQitemZ260305544786QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item260305544786&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C39%3A1%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245#ht_2423wt_0

 

 

BTW - I found a 16x20 radiator on e-bay.... don't know the seller but it could be a "glued" tank for that price

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-MUSTANG-69-70-ALL-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-MAVERICK_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33602QQitemZ270289232729#ht_1180wt_0

 

Good luck!

Edited October 31, 2008 by MAD IN NC

[6T9Mach1 12]

I've got one of the cheap ebay 24"x16" aluminum radiators. To avoid having to drill any extra holes in the radiator support to mount the radiator I just sat it in the bottom supports and modified the existing radiator support that mounts on top of the radiator so that it would fit over the slightly wider aluminum radiator. Not the best set up but it was better than punching holes in oem sheetmetal and it works just fine.

[ETstang 10]

In a related subject - my '69 convertible had AC when new - prior owner removed it and another prior owner has put in a replacement radiator. I want to go back to what is proper. Have a 351 Windsor.

The current radiator is bolted in with side flanges - was that original? Or is it supposed to be a saddle mount on the bottom?

And should the new radiator have an upper bracket? - I think I have seen that as the original mounting.

Finally - 3 row or 4 row with AC?

Anyone with pix would be great.

Thx

 

(CJPony has an Internet week-end sale I would like to take advantage of)

[bnickel 10,004]

all 69 v8 AC cars used the saddle mount rad and not the bolt in type. yes you will need the upper mounting bracket that bolts to the radiator support and you'll probably need new lower brackets and all new rubbers as well.

[ETstang 10]

Any comments - anyone - on 3 row vs 4 row for replacement radiator???

[bnickel 10,004]

if it were me i'd go with the 4 core. i have a 3 core in my car and occasionally it will start to creep up into "HOT" during the summer with ac on and sitting in traffic. for some reason it's only in traffic though, doesn't do that sitting in the driveway, or it takes a lot longer if it does. maybe it's because there isn't as much air moving through the grill in traffic or because the air is hotter due to the exhaust from other cars and the asphalt or something...who knows. i'd go with the 4 core though and i plan on using a 4 core in the 69 cougar, but modified to be a multi-pass unit instead of a stock single pass. apparently it's pretty easy to do, basically you just build a partition in the top and bottom tanks that re-routes the coolant to flow through the core twice instead of just once. do a gogle search on multi pass radiator and you'll find plenty of info on what i'm talking about

[ETstang 10]

Thanks for comment about the reaction with the AC on - because I will be putting the AC back into the car this winter -

 

Had that problem with another car w/AC ('48 Ford) - put in a 160 Thermostat and that solved that issue very nicely.

[bnickel 10,004]

Thanks for comment about the reaction with the AC on - because I will be putting the AC back into the car this winter -

 

Had that problem with another car w/AC ('48 Ford) - put in a 160 Thermostat and that solved that issue very nicely.

 

 

yeah i'm running a 180 stat in mine, but i have a 160 in the garage ready to go in it before next summer...if i still have the car by then, hopefully it will be sold long before then and i'll be cruising the cougar next summer for a while before i tear it all apart for the resto-mod-oration.