ANOTHER wiring thread - Help!

[MAD IN NC 21]

Engine is IN!

 

She started up . made it around the block and next time I tried to do it again and when it came to fire her up - nothing!

 

Not a click or sound at all! Accessories position works as electric fuel pump flows etc. Lights work. Dash is out for a turn signal problem but she started wo dash before hand. Now nothing, no click, sound or anything except for fuel pump running in Accessory mode.

 

Can get her to fire up by jumping the Batt in to Starter out lug on the Solenoid.

 

Just love this 40 yr old wiring that everybody else had their hands in before me!

 

I have replaced Solenoid, replaced ignition switch. What's next?

[jerry69 10]

Automatic or manual transmission? If automatic "neutral bypass" switch could be a your problem....

[MAD IN NC 21]

manual - thanks Jerry....

Edited October 28, 2008 by MAD IN NC

[69RavenConv 286]

I know you said you replaced the ign switch and solenoid, but since you can crank it by jumping the solenoid terminals, I'd suspect one of those two is the culprit. It could also be a bad connection somewhere between the ign switch and solenoid. Could something have shaken loose? Or a dead spot in the ign switch?

[JC69Stang 0]

Double check your connections on the battery posts, and the ground wire attaching to your block. That one caused me some major headaches once.

[MAD IN NC 21]

Thanks for the input all....

 

69RavenConv - both new and old switch act the same - discounting the switch as a result.

 

I've ordered the color coded wiring diagram and from there I will first go after the grounds once again and probably double up on the firewall to motor one per JC69Stang.....

 

then trace the wires from the switch back to the solenoid.....

 

then go after the turn signals and dash lights not working.....

 

then if every thing is good - drink heavily!

[69RavenConv 286]

Yeah, I bet you got a bad, loose, broken, or missing connection somewhere in the circuit. Good luck and let us know what you find. Then, the first round is on me...:blink:

[Pakrat 1,043]

If you can bump the car on but not start it with a key than it should not be the solenoid or the ground, it would have to be the switch or a lead to the switch. New does not mean good, it could be defective and if you have the same issue with the new and old switch then I don't discount it, I'd tend to believe that it only worked once because something is frying it after that meaning if you try to swap in a third switch than it might only work once too.

[MAD IN NC 21]

"If you can bump the car on but not start it with a key than it should not be the solenoid or the ground, it would have to be the switch or a lead to the switch.

 

Wish it would "bump", does not..........

 

 

 

 

New does not mean good, it could be defective and if you have the same issue with the new and old switch then I don't discount it, I'd tend to believe that it only worked once because something is frying it after that meaning if you try to swap in a third switch than it might only work once too.

 

Checked switch "resistance" before installing. Old = new....

[Pakrat 1,043]

 

Wish it would "bump", does not..........

 

OH, didn't sound that way when you said this earlier.

 

"Can get her to fire up by jumping the Batt in to Starter out lug on the Solenoid."

[69RavenConv 286]

In the "start" position, all your ignition switch does is short the two little terminals on the solenoid. So if you can crank it by shorting the terminals with a screwdriver, I would suspect the ignition switch or the wiring to it. Since you say the old and new switch both do it, I'd say that points to the wiring.

 

Are the little boots that connect to the solenoid clean and gripping tight? Break in the insulation somewhere shorting to chassis? Connections at the ign switch tight?

[MAD IN NC 21]

Yeah, I bet you got a bad, loose, broken, or missing connection somewhere in the circuit. Good luck and let us know what you find. Then, the first round is on me...:blink:

 

YAHOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Burp.... (excuse me).....

 

Turned out to be the "short" on the plug going to the trans. for the reverse lights. The four post plug consisted of a loop which shorted out the "neutral Safety Switch if it was an Auto!

 

Thanks guy! Now onto the dash lights and turn signals - tomorrow of course....