Complete shock tower apron replacement

[cmrmach1 10]

Looks like i will have to replace my complete drivers side shock tower frame assembly. Every mustang vendor has them and they do all look the same , does anyone know if there is more than one manufacturer . I know dynacorn is supposed to be the main dealer but is the one they sell the same as everyone else? I was thinking of ordering the one from car parts discount on ebay. Also has anyone come accross any sites showing replacement of the complete frame assembly. Looking for any tips before i this major undertaking.thanks

[foothilltom 33]

It sounds like you're going the whole enchilada, but if you can get by with replacing just the shock tower and frame support, I have a driver's side -- brand new -- that I'll sell you for $20 + shipping. I paid $119 from VA Mustang about 6 months ago. I had bought both sides but only replaced one side.

 

Let me know if this is interesting, but I doubt it since you're going with the whole dang assembly.

 

Tom

[cmrmach1 10]

Thanks for the offer ,it's a great deal, but no way i can avoid doing the whole thing it's to far gone.

[dlinebar 2]

I replaced all that as well for both sides. Got it from northcoast mustang. I also documented the steps on my web site with lots of pictures. Hope that helps.

 

Dan

[cmrmach1 10]

good site i have looked at it in the past . i like your idea about the drywall stud template. that is my main concern keeping everything alligned and how to support the body.

[dlinebar 2]

I know I was kinda freaked out about that. I put a write up in the FAQ section about how I supported the car and measured to keep it all straight. I was really worried about the engine not mounting back in and the bolts not lining up. Even with the metal template I was still worried. I just knew I was gonna lower the new engine and tranny in and then find the bolt holes were not it the right place.

The night before I put the new engine and tranny in I lowed in the old block just the tripple check and sure enought the blots slid in perfectly...I was very relieved. When I put the final engine in the went in perfect....I was very relieved and it felt good to throw out the metal template knowing it had done its job.

I had also read articals about if the frame is 1/4 inch off the car will not drive the same or pull to one side etc so I was a bit worried about that as well...but also thought there was a certian amount of BS in that. Any way I just measured using alot of cross beasures to make sure I had not just two dimentions of measurment but three and sure enough it paid off....I did find myself wishing I had a few more but it all worked. you cannot measure enough. I also dry fit the old parts (fenders etc) that I was going to reuse after I tac welded parts in place to check myself. Doing one side of the car and useing the existing side as a point of reference was very important. Dont hack off the entire front end at once. Do one side at a time. When in doubt I would stop and think and even sleep on it before I move forward and every problem had a solution.

It was all worth it as not the car drives straight as an arrow and I cannot tell you how awsome it was when those motor mount bolts slid in so easliy. Take your time, enjoy the process it will be worth it.

 

Dan

[70vert 17]

I always mention this when someone is doing a shock tower replacement - if you're more concerned with chassis rigidity and shock tower durability in the future, think about the Pro Motorsports reinforcement kit. I plan to do mine when my 408 is done:

 

https://www.drgas.net/category.php?cid=31&catid=4

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i think you'll have to dig into your torque boxes and front floor supports. try to salvage your originals if possible. if not, i would recommend the dynacorn two piece designs. they are close to original with some modification. i have photos of this area if interested.

[cmrmach1 10]

Lots of good info . I did purchase the dynacorn complete assembly (which has the wrap around big block support if anyone was wondering) , 2 pc torque box and strut bracket . Pulled the drivetrain ,suspention etc,. Reinstalled the export brace, car is supported along the rockers and at the radiator support and is as level as i can get it. I'm still measuring and remeasuring my reference points . I've drilled a few dozen spot welds , but still havn't worked up enough courage to cut it out. Getting close to taking the plunge . Thanks to all for the advice so far .

[468stang 11]

 

Let it rip. Heres a couple of pics for you.

[cmrmach1 10]

Picture 1 still scares me 468. My last concern before cutting has to do with supporting the front structure. Right now it is supported along the rockers . I was going to put stands under the radiator support,but i noticed the rear door gap has increased from having the front end hanging. Should i raise the rad support slightly to get the doors back where they were or should i just support it were it hangs. I imagine some flex is normal but how much is from rust?

[468stang 11]

Support the car at the rockers, level ,measure and level again. Tack weld chanell off front of rad. support. measure ,shim, and level again. Mark all your numbers on floor and car.

P.M. Me. with any?S. ive been hitting the sause tonite and Im strugeling to type.

Mike in CT.

[468stang 11]

picture 1 still scares me 468. My last concern before cutting has to do with supporting the front structure. Right now it is supported along the rockers . I was going to put stands under the radiator support,

but i noticed the rear door gap has increased from having the front end hanging. 

should i raise the rad support slightly to get the doors back where they were or should i just support it were it hangs. I imagine some flex is normal but how much is from rust?

 

i find it hard to believe door gap has changed from supporting by the rockers. I had major rott and went ape shit with a plasma cutter and had no movement. I will take a road trip to n.y. For the day to show you how its done if youd like.

Shoot me a pm. Its no where as bad as you tkink it is.

 

Mike in ct.

[468stang 11]

Look at bottom of Rad. support in pic #2. You should see the channel supporting the support.

[cmrmach1 10]

Right now i have screw type house jacks at the rad support. I need to raise them close to an inch to get the door to close properly. The other side where i already replaced the torque box is less noticeable. When i get everything exact i'll tack on a few channels and cross braces. It seems most people doing this are working on a shell w/o doors, so most would not even have noticed it. I would guess the weight of the front clip normally does cause it to droop a fraction of an inch. I'm thinking i might just bring it back up 1/2 inch as a compromise . The body is pretty ridgid as a whole because if i raise it more than an inch the weight comes right off the front rocker support. It'll be next week before i can get back to it. I'll try and get a few pics on .

[cmrmach1 10]

Well i did it. I removed the assembly. Still a lot more drilling and grinding before the new unit can go in, but no going back now . Sorry can't figure out how to add pictures

[railblazer82 10]

I am doing mine also, hopefully starting next week, but i am piecing mine to together, starting with the frame rails. My rails are only bad halfway, jut past the shock towers, but i bought full rails. I have been told to only replace what i need, but it would seem easier, and more stable in the future to replace the whole rail,,, Any comments, or ideas?? Like to figure thi out before starting like i said will be mext week Thanks, adam

[468stang 11]

Well i did it. I removed the assembly. Still a lot more drilling and grinding before the new unit can go in, but no going back now . Sorry can't figure out how to add pictures

Glad too hear things are going well.

[cmrmach1 10]

Hey rail good luck with your project , missery loves company. I would also agree don't replace more than have to . If your torque box and floor support are good , just do the front rail. I've just finished removing the last bits of the assembly and am not looking forward to the grinding ,sandblasting and endless prep before welding the new parts in.