Fried Ignition Switch or What?

[CaliforniaMustang 10]

Long story short when I turn my key everything under the hood is dead silent as if there is no battery in the car. It was running fine one day and doing this the next. Here's what I've replaced so far:

 

Battery 100% charged

New Battery and Starter cables

New Starter Solenoid

New Ground Strap

 

 

After browsing the internet all night I'm thinking the problem lies between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. What can go wrong between these and what should I be looking for?

 

 

 

Thanks a million!

 

 

 

P.S. at first I was researching problems associated with the resistor wire, but I have a Mallory Unilite module and coil, so I guess I'm not even using the pink wire? (p.o. installed it).

Edited September 1, 2008 by CaliforniaMustang

[Pakrat 1,043]

9 times out 10 a suddenly dead car is due to a poor ground.You say you replaced the ground strap so I assume you mean the one from the heads to the firewall? I have found most often that the ground issue lies between the cable from the battery to the underside of the block and it is usually at the block connection. If you have not replaced AND cleaned up that area really well already I would suggest that you just reach under the car, grab the cable and move it back and forth several times around the bolt to loosen any debri then try to start the car. If you have already done that then I suggest you switch from a shotgun to a rifle and stop replacing any more parts. Get a good multi tester if you don't already have one and start checking for conductivity from that ground at the bock all the way back to the firewall at each and every connection, the culprit will present itself eventually.

 

Good Luck and welcome to the site BTW.

[6T9Mach1 12]

Is your car an automatic? If so, it could be the neutral safety switch. I tore my car apart looking for the problem and it ended up being the neutral safety switch. Same symptoms as your car has; no reaction to turning the key.

[CaliforniaMustang 10]

You say you replaced the ground strap so I assume you mean the one from the heads to the firewall?

 

Yes, mine connects to the rear of the intake and goes to the firewall, i took a wire brush to both attachment points.

 

 

I have found most often that the ground issue lies between the cable from the battery to the underside of the block and it is usually at the block connection.

 

I put the new ground in the same place the p.o. had it, sandwiched between the alternator mounting bolt and the block (next to the thermostat housing). The motor is a 351c, so I'm not sure if this is the recommended spot or should it be going under the engine somewhere?

 

 

Get a good multi tester if you don't already have one and start checking for conductivity from that ground at the bock all the way back to the firewall at each and every connection, the culprit will present itself eventually.

 

I just grabbed one this morning - now if I can only figure out how to work the damn thing LOL.

 

 

 

 

Is your car an automatic? If so, it could be the neutral safety switch. I tore my car apart looking for the problem and it ended up being the neutral safety switch. Same symptoms as your car has; no reaction to turning the key.

 

It is a 4spd manual

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the help, will report progress later today!

[CaliforniaMustang 10]

Alright need some more NOOB help LOL.

 

What setting should this multimeter be on?

 

photo:

 

[Pakrat 1,043]

I'm not sure that is the right type of tester, unfortunately I can't read the settings on this laptop I am using but you want it on DC and a 12-14 volt range (a fully charged 12volt actually reads 14).

 

Did it come with directions for automotive? If not this quick tutorial may help: http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/pdfs/000MULTI2.pdf

[CaliforniaMustang 10]

I managed to figure out that darn multimeter. I've got a 0.00 reading on the S post when the key is turned, same on the I post. A reading of 12.23 where the battery wire connects to the solenoid.

 

So it's the wire going from the S post to the ignition switch that failed? Should I just run a completely new one or try and find the problem along the old wire?

 

 

UPDATE: I checked wires coming off the back of the ignition switch - the green has 11.53 when switched to ACC and the red/blue has same when switched to ON. So that tells me the switch is good right? Just something in between the frayed wires and the solenoid?

Edited August 27, 2008 by CaliforniaMustang

[d.reese 13]

I'd get an electrical wiring diagram.

 

These guys on here can post you one you can print!!!

 

Find the wire at the switch that energizes the selinoid and run a tempary wire (jumper) to make sure of the problem before I ran a new wire!

[CaliforniaMustang 10]

I'd get an electrical wiring diagram.

 

These guys on here can post you one you can print!!!

 

Find the wire at the switch that energizes the selinoid and run a tempary wire (jumper) to make sure of the problem before I ran a new wire!

 

I think it's the red/blue coming off the ignition switch? (based on my reading 11.53v only when key is in ON position).

 

So I would just splice that and run a really long wire through the firewall to the 'S' terminal to test?

[69RavenConv 286]

The RED/BLUE wire goes to the neutral safety switch through a 4-pin connector under the hood by the cowl, near the master cylinder.

 

You don't have a neutral safety switch, since you have a 4-speed. On my 3-speed manual, Ford simply jumpered the pins together with a 1" wire loop at the connector. You might want to check there. (BTW, the other 2 pins go to the backup light switch).

[69BossMach1 10]

Jump the solenoid and see if anything happens. Likely a dead keyswitch.

[CaliforniaMustang 10]

Jump the solenoid and see if anything happens.

 

 

The car starts when I do that!

 

So what does that mean? The red/blue S wire is toast? What is it leading to if I don't have a neutral safety switch?

 

 

 

Thanks!

Edited August 30, 2008 by CaliforniaMustang

[CaliforniaMustang 10]

So if I want to run a completely new wires from the ignition switch to the 'S' and 'I' on the solenoid can I bypass the neutral switch and just go ignition switch ---> solenoid?

 

And the brown wire goes straight to the coil?

[69BossMach1 10]

I doubt you need new wires. Unless you know you had something happen that wouldve pinched one of them. You probably need a new key switch. (the thing the key goes into). The older ford ones are known for dropping dead. I'm on my 3rd one.

[CaliforniaMustang 10]

Problem solved! After ripping apart the entire wire harness, turns out the @$#%ing jumper wire on the neutral safety switch had disintegrated to the point of no return.

 

Now that I think about it, unplugging the NSS might be an effective anti-theft measurement, since it took me 4 days to get the damn thing started again!