Very Basic 1969 fastback

[bnickel 10,004]

looking good. i'm getting anxious to start working on getting the cougar at least primed and ready for paint. i've got pretty everyhting i need already since it all came with the car, even the correct original color paint. i'm going to paint it a different color that what it was originally. the cougar name for the color is light aqua but we mustang guys know it as aztec aqua....not my favorite color really. i'm going to go back with acapulco blue and possibly a black painted top or maybe just paint the car a solid color

[jkskinsfan 19]

Post some pics when you can, bnickel. And be sure to take your time with the Prep-Work. I'm sure you know that the preparation makes all the difference in how the finished Paint Job will look. Now that I've started the Primer Stage on mine, it's taking all of the will power I have not to start rushing things. I just hope I have the patience to keep taking it Slow and Easy making sure I do everything the right way. I also hope I didn't make a mistake in going with PPG's "SHOP-LINE" Series of products, but the savings were just too good to pass up. And hopefully that old saying "You Get What You Pay For" won't apply here.

[jkskinsfan 19]

Post some pics when you can, bnickel. And be sure to take your time with the Prep-Work. I'm sure you know that the preparation makes all the difference in how the finished Paint Job will look. Now that I've started the Primer Stage on mine, it's taking all of the will power I have not to start rushing things. I just hope I have the patience to keep taking it Slow and Easy making sure I do everything the right way. I also hope I didn't make a mistake in going with PPG's "SHOP-LINE" Series of products, but the savings were just too good to pass up. And hopefully that old saying "You Get What You Pay For" won't apply here.

[jkskinsfan 19]

Got the Hood, Trunk, and both Fenders done today. With the Primer on I can finally see what kind of job I did on the Body Work. Doesn't look too bad, and it won't take much more work to get it just right. Here are some pics of the Fenders.

[jkskinsfan 19]

Got the Hood, Trunk, and both Fenders done today. With the Primer on I can finally see what kind of job I did on the Body Work. Doesn't look too bad, and it won't take much more work to get it just right. Here are some pics of the Fenders.

[superduty69 11]

Very nice work!!

 

I was wondering what this paint job is going to cost? Not in terms of time but materials wise. My son has a 74 f-150 that could use a paint job after we get some body work done.

[superduty69 11]

Very nice work!!

 

I was wondering what this paint job is going to cost? Not in terms of time but materials wise. My son has a 74 f-150 that could use a paint job after we get some body work done.

[jkskinsfan 19]

Very nice work!!

 

I was wondering what this paint job is going to cost? Not in terms of time but materials wise. My son has a 74 f-150 that could use a paint job after we get some body work done.

 

I'm going to do Base/Clear for the final Paint, Superduty69. I haven't got prices for PPG's Shop-Line Series yet, but here is what I was quoted a year ago for their Deltron Line.

 

2 GALLONS DT885 WARM TEMPERATURE REDUCER $ 80.10

1 GALLON DBC WINTER BLUE METALLIC BASE COAT $ 299.30

1 GALLON DCU2021 URETHANE CLEAR COAT $ 180.70

1 QUART DCX61 CLEAR COAT HARDENER $ 81.90

 

I'm going to do under the Hood and under the Trunk Lid with SHOP-LINE's JAU Acrylic Urethane. This is a One Step finish and doesn't require a Clear Coat. I'll let you know what the Price is for that as well as the SHOP-LINE Base/Clear the next chance I get to stop by the PPG Dealer.

[jkskinsfan 19]

Very nice work!!

 

I was wondering what this paint job is going to cost? Not in terms of time but materials wise. My son has a 74 f-150 that could use a paint job after we get some body work done.

 

I'm going to do Base/Clear for the final Paint, Superduty69. I haven't got prices for PPG's Shop-Line Series yet, but here is what I was quoted a year ago for their Deltron Line.

 

2 GALLONS DT885 WARM TEMPERATURE REDUCER $ 80.10

1 GALLON DBC WINTER BLUE METALLIC BASE COAT $ 299.30

1 GALLON DCU2021 URETHANE CLEAR COAT $ 180.70

1 QUART DCX61 CLEAR COAT HARDENER $ 81.90

 

I'm going to do under the Hood and under the Trunk Lid with SHOP-LINE's JAU Acrylic Urethane. This is a One Step finish and doesn't require a Clear Coat. I'll let you know what the Price is for that as well as the SHOP-LINE Base/Clear the next chance I get to stop by the PPG Dealer.

[superduty69 11]

I'm going to do Base/Clear for the final Paint, Superduty69. I haven't got prices for PPG's Shop-Line Series yet, but here is what I was quoted a year ago for their Deltron Line.

 

2 GALLONS DT885 WARM TEMPERATURE REDUCER $ 80.10

1 GALLON DBC WINTER BLUE METALLIC BASE COAT $ 299.30

1 GALLON DCU2021 URETHANE CLEAR COAT $ 180.70

1 QUART DCX61 CLEAR COAT HARDENER $ 81.90

 

I'm going to do under the Hood and under the Trunk Lid with SHOP-LINE's JAU Acrylic Urethane. This is a One Step finish and doesn't require a Clear Coat. I'll let you know what the Price is for that as well as the SHOP-LINE Base/Clear the next chance I get to stop by the PPG Dealer.

 

Thank you,i was curious as to what was involved price wise for materials. I would try to paint one myself,that does'nt bother me at all. And will try on the boys truck before i try it on my 66.

 

I will be following your progress and if you could,tell us the amounts used and the prices involved. Maybe you will inspire someone to try this for themselves.

 

Thank you,

John

[superduty69 11]

I'm going to do Base/Clear for the final Paint, Superduty69. I haven't got prices for PPG's Shop-Line Series yet, but here is what I was quoted a year ago for their Deltron Line.

 

2 GALLONS DT885 WARM TEMPERATURE REDUCER $ 80.10

1 GALLON DBC WINTER BLUE METALLIC BASE COAT $ 299.30

1 GALLON DCU2021 URETHANE CLEAR COAT $ 180.70

1 QUART DCX61 CLEAR COAT HARDENER $ 81.90

 

I'm going to do under the Hood and under the Trunk Lid with SHOP-LINE's JAU Acrylic Urethane. This is a One Step finish and doesn't require a Clear Coat. I'll let you know what the Price is for that as well as the SHOP-LINE Base/Clear the next chance I get to stop by the PPG Dealer.

 

Thank you,i was curious as to what was involved price wise for materials. I would try to paint one myself,that does'nt bother me at all. And will try on the boys truck before i try it on my 66.

 

I will be following your progress and if you could,tell us the amounts used and the prices involved. Maybe you will inspire someone to try this for themselves.

 

Thank you,

John

[jkskinsfan 19]

I got the Doors, Hood Scoop and the Side Scoops Primed. The Doors were pretty well Dinged up and with the Primer on I can tell that they will need some more work to get them Smooth and Ripple Free. Going to start working on them today. Here are a couple of pics to show what I mean by "Pretty Well Dinged Up".

[jkskinsfan 19]

I got the Doors, Hood Scoop and the Side Scoops Primed. The Doors were pretty well Dinged up and with the Primer on I can tell that they will need some more work to get them Smooth and Ripple Free. Going to start working on them today. Here are a couple of pics to show what I mean by "Pretty Well Dinged Up".

[jkskinsfan 19]

I just finished "Block Sanding" the Doors. As with most things that I've done to this car, I greatly underestimated the amount of time that I thought it would take. Block Sanding will absolutely be the most time consuming thing that I'll be doing. There are still some Low Spots in the Doors, and a couple of High Spots which will be the most trouble to fix. I can just fill in the Low Areas and sand 'em back down, but I'll have to hammer the "High Spots" down a little bit, fill 'em in, and hope I don't crack any of the filler that is close by. I'll let you know how it goes.

[jkskinsfan 19]

I just finished "Block Sanding" the Doors. As with most things that I've done to this car, I greatly underestimated the amount of time that I thought it would take. Block Sanding will absolutely be the most time consuming thing that I'll be doing. There are still some Low Spots in the Doors, and a couple of High Spots which will be the most trouble to fix. I can just fill in the Low Areas and sand 'em back down, but I'll have to hammer the "High Spots" down a little bit, fill 'em in, and hope I don't crack any of the filler that is close by. I'll let you know how it goes.

[Pakrat 1,043]

I'm not sure what it is actually called or where to get it but if you aren't using it yet there is this black dye the pro's use between sanding that instantly ID's the high and low spots for you instead of eyeballing it all the time, I've seen it in action and it's pretty cool.

[Pakrat 1,043]

I'm not sure what it is actually called or where to get it but if you aren't using it yet there is this black dye the pro's use between sanding that instantly ID's the high and low spots for you instead of eyeballing it all the time, I've seen it in action and it's pretty cool.

[bnickel 10,004]

I'm not sure what it is actually called or where to get it but if you aren't using it yet there is this black dye the pro's use between sanding that instantly ID's the high and low spots for you instead of eyeballing it all the time, I've seen it in action and it's pretty cool.

 

 

3M makes it (i'm sure other now as well) and it's just called a guide coat, or powdered guide coat.

[bnickel 10,004]

I'm not sure what it is actually called or where to get it but if you aren't using it yet there is this black dye the pro's use between sanding that instantly ID's the high and low spots for you instead of eyeballing it all the time, I've seen it in action and it's pretty cool.

 

 

3M makes it (i'm sure other now as well) and it's just called a guide coat, or powdered guide coat.

[jkskinsfan 19]

I have some Dark Gray Lacquer Primer and after spraying on a couple more coats of Urethane Primer Surfacer, I plan on using the Lacquer Primer as a Guide Coat. I don't see why that wouldn't work.

[jkskinsfan 19]

I have some Dark Gray Lacquer Primer and after spraying on a couple more coats of Urethane Primer Surfacer, I plan on using the Lacquer Primer as a Guide Coat. I don't see why that wouldn't work.

[jkskinsfan 19]

I got all of the Low Spots in the Doors filled in, knocked down the High Spots without cracking any of the existing filler, and filled them in. Block Sanded 'em all down, filled in a couple of places a second time and Block sanded them back down again. It's not perfect, but I'm far from a professional. Anyway, I think they came out pretty damned good. After I spray on another couple of coats of Urethane Surfacer and Block Sand 'em a final time, I'll be able to tell for sure.

[jkskinsfan 19]

I got all of the Low Spots in the Doors filled in, knocked down the High Spots without cracking any of the existing filler, and filled them in. Block Sanded 'em all down, filled in a couple of places a second time and Block sanded them back down again. It's not perfect, but I'm far from a professional. Anyway, I think they came out pretty damned good. After I spray on another couple of coats of Urethane Surfacer and Block Sand 'em a final time, I'll be able to tell for sure.

[jkskinsfan 19]

I knew things were going along to good. I spent the last couple of days getting the body of the Old Girl ready for Primer. Finished taping off the last few things this morning and started up the Compressor. It ran for about 10 seconds and then started running real rough for a few seconds like it was going to seize up and then it just shut off all together. At first I thought I'd popped the Circuit Breaker, but that was okay. Tried different outlets with no luck. It's at the repair shop now and I'm waiting for a call to see how much it's going to cost. I have to decide how much to spend on repairs vs. buying a new one. If it's not one thing, it's another. That's what makes working on these OLD BEAUTIES so much fun.

[jkskinsfan 19]

I knew things were going along to good. I spent the last couple of days getting the body of the Old Girl ready for Primer. Finished taping off the last few things this morning and started up the Compressor. It ran for about 10 seconds and then started running real rough for a few seconds like it was going to seize up and then it just shut off all together. At first I thought I'd popped the Circuit Breaker, but that was okay. Tried different outlets with no luck. It's at the repair shop now and I'm waiting for a call to see how much it's going to cost. I have to decide how much to spend on repairs vs. buying a new one. If it's not one thing, it's another. That's what makes working on these OLD BEAUTIES so much fun.