Starter won't turn over..

[*JackBurton* 0]

Big day came to crank the motor over and ended with my heading to the fridge for more Tecate beer.

 

Here is a run down on it:

 

1. Starter wont turnover. Motor is able to be cranked manually.

2. No clicking sound from the solenoid <-- no sound at all.

3. Headlights work Interior lights work. Windshield wipers work with key on engine off.

4. Small clicking sound at the coil.

 

At first I tried to crank with the duraspark setup still wired in. Then I removed the connection at the I terminal and returned it to it's stock form.

In both cases I couldn't get the starter to turn the motor over. I'm going to replace the solenoid tomorrow but was wondering if you guys had any other thoughts?

 

Thanks in advance,

Sean

[jmlay 80]

Try to jump the solenoid posts. If it turns over/starts then you solenoid is bad, assuming you are getting the signal from the ignition switch. You did check to make sure the wires on the I & S posts are in the correct positions , I to coil & S to ignition switch??? Add you get 12V @ the wire connected to the S post when the key is on???

 

In my younger years I would just uses a pr of pliers with no insulation on the handles, but I am older now (not sure how much smarter).

 

Mike

[*JackBurton* 0]

I didn't try to touch off the positive post to the S terminal. I plan on doing that and getting my multi meter out in the morning.

[Max Power 74]

You can get a starter switch at Summit for about $12. I use mine often. Great for bumping the motor while under the hood.

[Pakrat 1,043]

Definitely start by using a multi tester at each connection starting from the battery ground at the block on back to the starter before replacing suspected culprits, you will go crazy doing that and buying Tecate by the keg before long.

[*JackBurton* 0]

I got 12v at battery and 12v at I terminal with key to run. I got nothing at S terminal with key at run and start. I replaced the solenoid and have the same issue. I'm able to crank the motor by jumping from + battery to s terminal.

 

edit: we can turnover now. NSS/backup lamp harness was not plugged in.,

[JC69Stang 0]

Good to hear!

[jmlay 80]

Just checked the wiring diagram & the red & blue wire is correct, it should be hot when the key is in the start position & connected to the S terminal. The terminal should have a brown wire that goes to the coil, red & green on the coil side. This red & green wire will be red & green at the ignition switch if you do have a Tach & pink if you do not. It will have power when the key is in the run position.

 

Wiring diagram here:

 

http://1969stang.com/mustang/content/view/75/42/

 

Mike

[*JackBurton* 0]

I'm stoaked to get the car cranking. I'm showing 10v at the + terminal on the coil in run and 9v ish at the same terminal in crank position. However I'm not getting any spark. I'm going to swap in a spare coil tomorrow. Could it be that the duraspark module isn't triggering the coil?

[jmlay 80]

9v at the coil should be fine there is a resistor wire in series with the coil. You need to find out why you are not getting g12V in the start position @ the S terminal. I would find the wires at the ignition switch & test the voltage there. If the red/green or pink, see my previous post, does not have 12 when the key is in the start position then this explains why the S post does not have it. I could be a faulty ignition switch but could be other things as well.

 

Has this car run prior?

[*JackBurton* 0]

No the motor is firing for the first time. I've got 12v at the s terminal on the solenoid. Taking a reading off the + terminal on the coil I get 10v on run and 9ish when I turn the key to start.

 

Upon further thinking let me rephrase this. I get 10v on the red/green wire where it plugs into the + terminal on the coil in run. It drops to mid 9v when I turn the key to start.

 

Earlier in the day I was getting nothing at the s terminal but that was due to missing the NSS part of the harness, which contains a loop to complete the red blue wire.