Secrets to cram this engine in?

[Carnivore 0]

I tried wedging my engine and tranny into the mustang lastnight with no luck. The back of the engine hits the firewall and the oil pan will hit the crossmember in the engine bay if I try going any lower. I removed the tranny's crossmember(thats proper terminology isnt it?.. the brace the tranny mounts to) for a little extra room to play with at the tail, but still no dice.

 

All I can think of to make it work is maybe put the engine and transmission in seperatly, or remove the engine bay crossmember and the steering rod that runs parallel to it.

 

Any experience in this? Here is the engine I'm installing: http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=3791

 

It does note that some cars may require the stock oil pan.. maybe I'm one of those cases.

 

Sad Davey. :sad:

[coz 108]

I've seen many an engine install that requires the rear of the car to be elevated. Changes the angle a bit. This mostly so the headers and/or tranny don't plow into the ground.

 

Usually a set of ramps will get it high enough. I would be a bit suspect in using jack stands since you may rock the car around a bit. Hate to see the car fall.....

 

Otherwise - put the engine in and then the tranny. A lift would certainly help in that situation.

[Carnivore 0]

Wouldnt jackin the rear up give a more optimal angle? I'll try though if it may work.

[Protowrxs 111]

I have always had to angle the tranny way down when picking up the combo (need a yoke wired up in the rear if you have fluid in it). I usually had to manually lift the trans rear over the radiator support but with the tranny angled down you can get it going into the tunnel.

 

Once the trans tail is in the tunnel you can use a floor jack on the rear of it to hold the rear end up and roll it back dropping the motor little by little. Yeah, the trans cross member has to be out to make it work.

 

Need more than one person too from my experience as well which you might well have had. Just has to be done slow but surely. When you get the tranny back in place you can jack it on up and get the motor mounts aligned. Personally I like to put the mounts on the engine and then get the saddle part to line up and drop but I’ve seen it the other way around.

 

The oil pan must be a classic Front Sump version.. not the dual sump like on the late models.

 

Good luck .. you’ll get it.

 

-Stephen

[Carnivore 0]

 

... The oil pan must be a classic Front Sump version.. not the dual sump like on the late models.

 

Good luck .. you’ll get it.

 

-Stephen

 

 

the Ford Racing info on the engine says

• This engine has a front sump oil pan and pickup, Explorer “short style†timing cover and water pump, Explorer harmonic damper and EFI valve covers.
  
• The front sump oil pan may work for many late 60’s and early 70’s Ford passenger cars. For Fox-bodied cars, 1979-95 Mustangs and early model passenger car oil pans see pages 111-112.

so would that imply that I'm golden grahams?

[coz 108]

Wouldnt jackin the rear up give a more optimal angle? I'll try though if it may work.

 

Yeah Duh - just re-read my post and corrected it. The rear is what I've seen.

[Protowrxs 111]

the Ford Racing info on the engine says

so would that imply that I'm golden grahams?

 

Sounds like it to me.

You might check out Dan's pics of an install here.

Don't know if it will help or not but provides a pretty good idea of the process.

 

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/classicstang/april_2006.htm

 

-Stephen

[Carnivore 0]

Attached is a pic during my failed attempt yesterday.... it has two lumpies in the pan... I was lookin at the old engine and there is only one.... :001_unsure: .. maybe I'll pull the tranny off and just see if that pan will correctly straddle the crossmember and steering.

 

 

I think I'll just replace the collector gasket on my Blazer for now though.... grrr.

[My427stang 10]

Get the crossmember out of there, and swap pans and pickups, it'll go right in.

 

Your pan is certainly wrong though

[Protowrxs 111]

Yes, that is a late model pan. Bummer if they said it was supposed to be front sump. Might buy you a nice Milodon or something to replace it. You'll need a front sump pickup for the pump as well.

 

-Stephen

[BAMF69 11]

Everyone here is correct! You need a front sump oil pan but that's not it. That's pretty much a 5.0 engine like mine so you will need to change oil pans, front pick up tube, block the dip stick hole, drill a hole for the front dip stick on the timing cover, or change to a 302 timing cover. Make sure you are using a flexplate balanced at 50oz if your using an older c4 tranny. The pulley took me a month to figure out because i'm using the original style water pump with the passanger side outlet. I'm still working on the timing pointer but i think i found one that works. I would change the timing cover to make things easier.

[Carnivore 0]

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=28193&parentCategoryId=10457

 

 

Dang, Jegs has a kit ready to go...

 

 

I think the wrong oil pan thingy was an error on my part, not a pissmrint of Jegs. The engine I ordered is the same as the link I posted previously, but has the fancy aluminum valve covers.. plus of course the whole wrong oil pan issue.

 

 

and can anybody tell if this pan will fit?

[Protowrxs 111]

That looks correct to me for the pan. The baffle is to keep oil from creeping out of the sump during acceleration.

 

The Jegs kit would cover it all but ouch.. pricey to me.

 

I am a little confused on the pickup tube they show however.. don't understand why it's so long. That looks like the standard rear sump pickup to me in the pic. The normal pickup tube is a short off the pump drop into the sump from what I used to have.

 

I thought one could drill a hole for the front mount dip stick and not have to replace the cover?? - But haven't worked with a new cover yet.

 

Anyhow that should make things work from what I understand. Not sure about any water pump differences between that cover and yours.

 

-Stephen

[BAMF69 11]

The pick up tube should be short and not that long like this ..

 

You can drill a hole in the timing cover but the 302 timing cover does not allow you to install a mechanical fuel pump and does not have the same location on the timing pointer. The water pump is reverse rotation on your engine so you either need to get another radiator or another water pump or maybe a hose long enough and curves since the inlet on the radiator is on the passanger side and the outlet is on the drivers side on the water pump.

 

I drilled my dipstick hole on my engine because im going to use an electric fuel pump. You can buy an aluminum water pump with a passanger outlet and you can use this timing pointer to make it fit.

 

 

drilled dip stick hole...you can use an o-ring when you install the dip stick so it won't leak..

[Carnivore 0]

Ok.. I'm resurecting this post because... well, I'm back to it.

 

 

Now I bought the conversion kit from Jegs. I began tearin things off but it seems the timing cover in the kit and the one on the engine are nearly identical. There is a small plug in the threaded dipstick hole, and a mountpoint for a mechanical fuel pump. It came with a fancy chrome "Ford Racing" 1/4" plate covering the fuel pump mount opening.

 

 

Now the problem is, I look inside, and there is no lobe for the fuel pumps arm to ride on.. What do I buy for that? I'm diving into unfamiliar territory here on the internals of an engine.

 

And for the dipstick, can I just pop out that plug and be good to go?

[mustangman70 10]

Ok.. I'm resurecting this post because... well, I'm back to it.

 

 

Now I bought the conversion kit from Jegs. I began tearin things off but it seems the timing cover in the kit and the one on the engine are nearly identical. There is a small plug in the threaded dipstick hole, and a mountpoint for a mechanical fuel pump. It came with a fancy chrome "Ford Racing" 1/4" plate covering the fuel pump mount opening.

 

 

Now the problem is, I look inside, and there is no lobe for the fuel pumps arm to ride on.. What do I buy for that? I'm diving into unfamiliar territory here on the internals of an engine.

 

And for the dipstick, can I just pop out that plug and be good to go?

 

 

Doesnt the fuel pump arm run off of the cam in some way?

[69 convertible 10]

With the oil pan off it is just to pop out the tap in the hole and mount the dipstick. Use the tap to cover up the hole were the old dipstick was mounted. To use a manual fuelpump you will have to dissamble the timing cover and maybe the "chain wheels" behind to fit in the steering to the manual pump. If you are going to use some fancy pulley kit from March or something they require electric fuelpump. I would advise you to forget the manual pump and go electric. On mine I´m working to find pulleys that will fit, and it is a hell of a job:gunsmilie:

 

Nice engine by the way, here is mine:001_cool:

 

Morten

Norway

[Pakrat 1,043]

Now the problem is, I look inside, and there is no lobe for the fuel pumps arm to ride on.. What do I buy for that? I'm diving into unfamiliar territory here on the internals of an engine.

 

And for the dipstick, can I just pop out that plug and be good to go?

 

The part you are looking for to opperate the fuel pump arm is called the eccentric as I recently learned when I posted about tearing my engine down for repainting. Here is a picture of it before I replaced the timing chain with a true double roller style. It secures to the CAM sprocket using the same bolt and pin and is at an offset to pump the arm during rotation. As you can see mine was filled with shavings becasue it was sticking out a hair further than the timing cover so before you replace the cover be sure to measure the depth of it inside against how far the eccentric protrudes out to be sure you have proper clearance. If not hten you will need to grind it down some first.