jag

The car was running fine. I turned it off to go into a store came back out and there is no starter or interior courtesy lights. I put the key on and jumped from the battery to the start post on the solenoid. The car started and I drove home. I turned off the car again and tried to start it, it started. Turned it off again and it was dead again. I think the key is when it is dead there are no courtesy lights. It sounds like a blown fuse but I can't seem to find one. Has anyone run into this? JAG

POJ 69......71-73 seats had the seat release lever in the middle of the back of the seat, at the bottom. My 70 Mach 1 has the release at the bottom of the left hand side of the seat. 71 -73 bucket seats also mount to the floor with bolts inside the car where 69 and 70 bolt thru the floor. If you post a picture it can be cleared up in a second. JAG

If you are saying the seat release lever was dropped down from the upper part of the seat to the lower portion of the seat on the side.....you have 1970 Mach 1 seats. They should look like the 69 seats but the release lever is near the bottom of the seat on the side near the door. That is how my 70 Mach 1 is setup. JAG

I heard back from GT Performance....no steel shaker base for the 351 windsor. I may order one from Ford ram Air. If you don't like it , you can send it back. JAG

Obviously a stock manifold will work. I was also told by a vendor that the Edelbrock Performer intake would also work. If anyone has any other info ...please speak up. I also read some where that the placement of the shaker on the hoods of mustangs was the same. That is why the bases were varied to match the carb placement on the different engines. I have sent an email to GT Performance asking about a metal base. When I get an answer I'll post the reply. I have an original shaker base but I believe it is for a Torino and I don't want to cut it if I can get a repo metal base for my Mach 1 somewhere. JAG

JB that looks really nice, very original looking and you do good work. I will have to see if I can find an original base and then try the conversion. Thanks for the pictures and the advice. JAG

Thanks Coz and jbauer4363. I don't believe the Windsor carb sits in the same place as a Clevland does. I think the base is offset either forward or back versus a Cleveland. Does anyone know if that istatement is true? If it is in the same place then I only have to worry about height. I don't have the original air cleaner base The car came with an aftermarket air cleaner. JAG

CJ, I forgot to ask youto post the links to the sites you talked about. Thanks for the suggestions. What is the feeling about being able to find an original 351 W shaker base, good chance or poor chance? JAG

bnickel are sure about that? The reason I ask is I run my GPS of my cigarette lighter socket in the dash. It is the original socket. I don't recall any problem getting power from there. I use the GPS when ever I go to a show that I have never been before. There might be an orientation problem, meaning you may have to put it in the socket at different degrees to get the prongs on the side to touch. JAG

bnickel are sure about that? The reason I ask is I run my GPS of my cigarette lighter socket in the dash. It is the original socket. I don't recall any problem getting power from there. I use the GPS when ever I go to a show that I have never been before. There might be an orientation problem, meaning you may have to put it in the socket at different degrees to get the prongs on the side to touch. JAG

CJ, do have first hand knowledge of the quality of the Aussie units? I would prefer a metal base as opposed to a fiberglass base. Are the Aussie units high in price? Pak, I had called Pereogie last year and they did not have any windsor bases. A few years ago their warehouse caught on fire and hundreds of shakers went up in smoke. Thanks for all the help on this issue. JAG

CJ, do have first hand knowledge of the quality of the Aussie units? I would prefer a metal base as opposed to a fiberglass base. Are the Aussie units high in price? Pak, I had called Pereogie last year and they did not have any windsor bases. A few years ago their warehouse caught on fire and hundreds of shakers went up in smoke. Thanks for all the help on this issue. JAG

Does anyone know where I might be able to find an original 351 w shaker base? I don't want a reproduction unless I can't find an original. JAG

Does anyone know where I might be able to find an original 351 w shaker base? I don't want a reproduction unless I can't find an original. JAG

I saw your pictures and noticed that your mustang has had the shock towers rust out at one time. The cracks were welded. If you have not had the structural integrity of the towers checked out, now would be a good time. You could pull the engine back out quite easily if you need to. Welcome to the site! JAG

I saw your pictures and noticed that your mustang has had the shock towers rust out at one time. The cracks were welded. If you have not had the structural integrity of the towers checked out, now would be a good time. You could pull the engine back out quite easily if you need to. Welcome to the site! JAG

I was just down this road and trying to read up on it. If you agree the older engines need more of the anti wear additives then you have to look at the phosphorous content, not the zinc. ( That is what the articles said) The articles I said Mobil 1 15w-50 was good for racing and flat tappet engines. Valvoline VR-1 Racing oils 10w-30 & 20 W-50 were good. It also stated diesel oils that were rated for diesel an gas engines had plenty of phosphorous and zinc in them. You could run them also. If I remember the limits were minimum 1000 ppm for the phosphorous. I am running the Valvoline VR-1. I have just started it though JAG

I was just down this road and trying to read up on it. If you agree the older engines need more of the anti wear additives then you have to look at the phosphorous content, not the zinc. ( That is what the articles said) The articles I said Mobil 1 15w-50 was good for racing and flat tappet engines. Valvoline VR-1 Racing oils 10w-30 & 20 W-50 were good. It also stated diesel oils that were rated for diesel an gas engines had plenty of phosphorous and zinc in them. You could run them also. If I remember the limits were minimum 1000 ppm for the phosphorous. I am running the Valvoline VR-1. I have just started it though JAG

The power steering pumps should use Ford type F transmission fluid. It is a little thicker than the newer transmission fluids and won't leak out as easily. JAG

The power steering pumps should use Ford type F transmission fluid. It is a little thicker than the newer transmission fluids and won't leak out as easily. JAG

Mustangs did use the bellows type grommets. They were the 1971-1973 mustangs I believe. I know this because I bought a new set for my 69 in 1974 and they were for a 73 mustang with stereo door speakers. 1969 and 1970 did not have the bellows just the pancake type grommets. JAG

Mustangs did use the bellows type grommets. They were the 1971-1973 mustangs I believe. I know this because I bought a new set for my 69 in 1974 and they were for a 73 mustang with stereo door speakers. 1969 and 1970 did not have the bellows just the pancake type grommets. JAG

I am no expert on steering boxes, but I would say it is bad if the adjustments don't work. I believe PAK has detailed how to adjust this in some earlier posts. JAG

I am no expert on steering boxes, but I would say it is bad if the adjustments don't work. I believe PAK has detailed how to adjust this in some earlier posts. JAG

There are new replacements. Try NPD or Virginia Mustang. JAG