Mike65
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Posts posted by Mike65
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The C-4 trans is a really reliable good trans, as stated above can handle some power too.
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It sounds like the 69 standard Coupe like I have.
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I have a 69 Coupe restomod I have been building on & off for about 20 years as time & money allow. I built it up from a rolling chassis to where it is now, almost ready to run. I stayed with a period correct engine 302/5.0, T-5 5spd trans, 9" Ford rear, & rewired the car using a AAW wiring harness kit, Pertronix dist, Pertronix ignition box, & dual Ford Contour cooling fans. I added a period look aftermarket gauges, AM/FM radio converted to play a MP-3 player, & added 1970 Mustang high back bucket seats. Added Mach-1 front spoiler, rear spoiler, & hood scoop. Roller clutch pedal, roller spring perches, & roller manual steering idler arm, Opentracker Racing adjustable strut rods, drop front & rear springs, & power disc brakes w/the Kelsey-Hayes style calipers. All that was added I could easily source repair parts if needed & not so radical that I can do most of the work myself.
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Looking good Vic. I used the same dash panel light & Mustang name plate on mine.
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22 hours ago, Vicfreg said:Oh cool, send some pics of that
Here is what I did to the Mach-1 r/s dash panel I got for my 69 Coupe.
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WOW! That might be handy when I start to put my car back together. I added it to my wish list at NPD. Thanks Vic.
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I did a similar thing to the r/s Mach-1 dash panel. I removed the woodgrain applique & painted the dash panel satin black to match the black gauge cluster panel.
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Vic, did you ever post pics of the other door handles you wanted to sell?
Mike.
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They have the flat motors. I posted links to the parts.
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Check with West Coast Classic Cougar by their website they have some used ones. It also looks like they have the special flat power window motors to fit behind the body & the brackets to mount them.
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That is very good to know, thanks for posting pics.
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Vic IIRC my deluxe r/s dash panel has like RR stated above the dash light has countersunk head screws. If you would like I can unbox mine & see.
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Got the Mustang up on jack stands & figured out where I want to place the inline fuel filter. I am going to mount the bracket & shield to the l/s rear floor pan out near the frame rail. I am going to drill a couple holes in the floor pan to install a couple nutserts to make it easy to remove when needed. This week I have to get to the welding supply store & exchange the empty bottle for a full one so I can weld in the sub-frame connectors.
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Cool look Vic. Are you doing the r/s dash panel also to match?
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Hi Vic,
Hope you & the family are doing well. Happy Thanksgiving. If you post pics of the handles I would be interested in a set since I need new ones. Do they come with the actuators or do I need to reuse my old ones?
Mike.
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5 hours ago, aslanefe said:Thanks Midlife.
I am chasing a no start issue. Sometimes when I turn the key, it won’t crank; especially if it sat for a day or two. Sometimes turning the key on-off a few times, it will crank. If I apply + to S terminal, it will crank. And for the next few starts, it will start with key. But if it is not started for sometime, like for a day, may need to apply + to S terminal again. It may be the ignition switch or neutral/back up switch acting up.
When you get the no crank try to start the car in neutral & see if it cranks then. I had a problem with my first Mustang & my first car (approx 1976-77) a 1970 Coupe that would not start in park, I would have to put it in neutral to start. IIRC it was the neutral/back up switch that fixed it, but then again that was some 46 years ago & the memory is not what it used to be.
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Very cool work Pete.
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Bob, that is a shame about the engine, hope it can be saved. Keep us updated.
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Over the last week I started bending the new fuel lines. I got the one from the tank to where I am going to place the inline filter made up & a piece cut for the next piece that will run from the filter to the torque box hole. I also had to cut away 2 of the old parking brake cable brackets that are going to be in the way of the new fuel lines since the brackets are no longer needed since I went to a center mount parking brake.
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Looks good Vic.
1970 Convertible Restoration
in Project Progress Forum
Posted · Report reply
Vic, IIRC the 2 metal "L" brackets go on the bottom of the dash at the "A" pillars to secure the ends of the dash to the body. The dash top is not on my Coupe yet if you need, I could take a few pics for you.