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dmck

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Posts posted by dmck


  1. Whomever fitted my new carpet (prior to me buying the car) cut it short in some places and the kick plate didnt hold it.  I overcame the problem by fitting thick foam as a carpet underlay (it "raised the floor level" so to speak).  Also cut down a lot of road noise.

    Only putting this here to give you some ideas if things go wrong.


  2. On 1/8/2021 at 4:48 PM, KMD88 said:

    Thanks everyone for your feedback. It's sounding more and more like the starter. It would also make a bit of sense. When I pulled into the gas station, there was a small pothole that I dipped into on the right side. Maybe that knocked something loose wiring-wise and is causing the heat soak. 

    Before you play with the starter, check the solenoid.  When the problem is occurring listen (or have someone listen) for the solenoid to 'click'.  If you are touching it you may even feel it operate.

    Dirty connections are also a possibility

    1 on the battery, 2 on the solenoid and 1 on the starter motor.   All easy tests before you pull out a starter.


  3. On 1/8/2021 at 12:58 PM, dream car said:

    Just curious Dmck, how much oil do you catch with the oil catch can in a given period, or mileage ?.

     

    Depends on how I drive.  If Im 'having fun' I can 1/2 fill it in a couple of hundred miles.   I'f I'm careful and sedate (boring!!)... none

     

    ITs a 302 with 4 barrel carby.  It seems if I dont open the second set I dont blow oil.

    @ Vicfreg.  I have all this stuff on my car and still blow oil.  I've only had the car 15 months and there were other more pressing issues to attend:

    • a new radio
    • fix the fan speed controller, which lead to
      • stripping the heater box to remove a rats nest- including mummified rats.....
    • repair the heater demister controls
    • replace the headlights
    • rewire the headlights and install relays and fuses (so much wiring under the '69 dash is 'hot' so I added lots of fuses.

     

    Now I have  all the major issues addressed I can continue chasing the oil blow-by.  I intend to take it for a long run , 100 miles or so, add some oil detergent  and drain the sump, then remove the sump, looking for anything that may be restricting oil paths.

     I   TOTALLY agree that the crankcase ventilation you describe should eliminate blowby .   Before installing the catch-can I had replaced PCV valve and oil-filler valve , to no noticeable affect.


  4. On 10/26/2020 at 3:12 AM, Patrick ward said:

    I am selling a 1969 Ford mustang coupe project 302 c4 winter blue with black standard upholstery. It has been professionally media blasted. This car is complete but totally disassembled. I have everything bagged and tagged. I have the California original title in hand. This has always been a west coast car. I have tons of pictures and am happy to discuss the car. I am located in Washougal Wa 98671. My cell number is 360 726 1576 if you want pictures or to discuss the car. 

    It had to come...

    Henry Ford meets IKEA.....


  5. On 12/31/2020 at 6:40 PM, aslanefe said:

    Look from under the car and you should see the pierced metal from when the screw pierced the holes for seat screws. It is also possible that the screws were never put on and created the holes. In that case you have to drill them yourself.

    Well, I put the Pony over my pit and checked from underneath.  The holes are clearly visible under the rust proofing.

    Many, many thanks.


  6. This pic makes the thing look really rusty... but there is not a sign of rust in this region.  It is covered with a rust proof 'something' possibly a rubber paint - and dust, which may have filled in any small holes.  I've had a 'dig-around' but not detected any holes.  I'll have to use a fine spike and try again.....

    or make my own !!

     

    Many, Many Thanks for your advice and comments, why didnt I find this site 12 months ago???

     

    IMG_6534AA.jpg


  7. Tony is my 'second best mate' as I try to get this beast presentable.  I will pass on your regards.

    39 minutes ago, barnett468 said:

    y you should also have the holes for the seat . you might want to look carefully to see if that piece has been replaced

     

     

     

    There has been a liberal amount of rust prevention over EVERYTHING !! any holes may be sealed by that!... I'll grab a 'pick' and start poking,

     

    many thanks


  8. I bought mine on e-bay for under $30 Aust.  It is well made , holds 600ml.. oh hell whats that in old English?... approx 1 pint I think.

    Easy to assemble and fit... had to make a bracket up to keep it vertical.

    I do have one minor problem that I caused myself.  I wasnt paying attention to the assembly details and left out 2 small seals.... and it leaks a little.

    MIne is mounted between the battery and the wheel/suspension bulge.  I have removed the dipstick (where all the oil was escaping under pressure) and connected a tube from dipstick to catch can.

    IMG_6538AA.jpg

    IMG_6537AA.jpg


  9. Now the revelation....

     Have I been panicking over nothing ?

    Are these 4 bolts actually seat-belt mountings?  it would make sense.  

    There were no seat belts in the car when I bought it.  Were they a standard fitting?  If so, I will have to fit them to be 'legal' in South Australia.

     

    ... and the other conclusion based upon them being seat belt mounts... is that there are so seat-back bolt holes-- which would not be a problem as the back is secure once the bottom is in place.

     

    Your comments please?


  10. 20 minutes ago, aslanefe said:

    Hi mate, I assume you are talking about the seat back for rear seats. Rear seat back for a 69-70 coupe and vert are  attached with 2 sheet metal screws with big captive washers on the lower part of the seat back. 69 rear seats and 70 rear seats are interchangeable but hardtop and vert seats are not. Vert rear seats are narrower due to folding top mechanism. So, if you put vert rear seat on a hardtop, you will have a few inches gap on both sides and coupe seat will not fit a vert without cutting and welding the seat frames.

    I really appreciate your reply.  Please first up, can we define the 3 differnt models, I have a feeling that our 'type names' may differ

    I know them as:

    Convertible (obvious really and we cant really differ)

    Fastback (also fairly obvious)

    Hardtop /Coupe ( the 'standard' 2 door body shape, body style 65A)

    My car has 4 retaining screws with monstrous washers, but the seat back has the 2 frame protrusions to match the 2 sheet metal screws you describe. Are you able to identify with my description of the 4 bolt positions, please?

    Are the seats themselves (the part you sit on....) the same across all models?

    From what I have read the Fastback rear seat (back) is hinged and folds down, so I dont expect that would need 4 mounting bolts

    I'll post some photos later today.

    Your assistance is greatly appreciated.

    dmck


  11. I have a 69 hardtop, (not fastback) and the rear sweat back has only 2 'bolt brackets' that do not match the 4 bolt holes meant to fix the seat.

     From on line drawings it appears as if the back is out of a convertible, though it seems a good fit.  The seat itself appears to be a good fit and seems to fit the holding brackets.

    I want to invest in new seat covers but am reluctant to do so until I determine if the convertible seats are the same size and shape as the hardtop standard seats.

    I was hoping the code would tell me what car the seats were meant for.  I may have a mix of models in the back.

    If it is, as Midlife suggests, a manufacturers code it should identify the vehicle model it was made for....

    SO... how do I investigate further?  ... please?

     

    If I can find another 69 near me ( not an easy task as I am in Adelaide, South Australia) I will have a car to compare to...   Fastbacks are easy to find but hardtops are rare....

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