dmck

Whomever fitted my new carpet (prior to me buying the car) cut it short in some places and the kick plate didnt hold it. I overcame the problem by fitting thick foam as a carpet underlay (it "raised the floor level" so to speak). Also cut down a lot of road noise. Only putting this here to give you some ideas if things go wrong.

Try this.... its simpler to understand.... 69 Ignition Switch connections..odt

I'm sorry, but the 'still' at the beginning of this video makes my eyes water with thoughts of yet another enema......

Before you play with the starter, check the solenoid. When the problem is occurring listen (or have someone listen) for the solenoid to 'click'. If you are touching it you may even feel it operate. Dirty connections are also a possibility 1 on the battery, 2 on the solenoid and 1 on the starter motor. All easy tests before you pull out a starter.

Depends on how I drive. If Im 'having fun' I can 1/2 fill it in a couple of hundred miles. I'f I'm careful and sedate (boring!!)... none ITs a 302 with 4 barrel carby. It seems if I dont open the second set I dont blow oil. @ Vicfreg. I have all this stuff on my car and still blow oil. I've only had the car 15 months and there were other more pressing issues to attend: a new radio fix the fan speed controller, which lead to stripping the heater box to remove a rats nest- including mummified rats..... repair the heater demister controls replace the headlights rewire the headlights and install relays and fuses (so much wiring under the '69 dash is 'hot' so I added lots of fuses. Now I have all the major issues addressed I can continue chasing the oil blow-by. I intend to take it for a long run , 100 miles or so, add some oil detergent and drain the sump, then remove the sump, looking for anything that may be restricting oil paths. I TOTALLY agree that the crankcase ventilation you describe should eliminate blowby . Before installing the catch-can I had replaced PCV valve and oil-filler valve , to no noticeable affect.

It had to come... Henry Ford meets IKEA.....

We have seen the fall of the USSR... perhaps this is the beginning of the end of the USA. (as in United states...) 50 separate countries?

Well, I put the Pony over my pit and checked from underneath. The holes are clearly visible under the rust proofing. Many, many thanks.

pm sent with Tony's email address

Or find an electronics enthusiast, fixing it is not difficult.

Excellent advice. I have a pit so checking that is easy.

Not a hole that you can see through but could be a small hole covered in rust-seal... there are similar marks on the other side.

This pic makes the thing look really rusty... but there is not a sign of rust in this region. It is covered with a rust proof 'something' possibly a rubber paint - and dust, which may have filled in any small holes. I've had a 'dig-around' but not detected any holes. I'll have to use a fine spike and try again..... or make my own !! Many, Many Thanks for your advice and comments, why didnt I find this site 12 months ago???

Tony is my 'second best mate' as I try to get this beast presentable. I will pass on your regards. There has been a liberal amount of rust prevention over EVERYTHING !! any holes may be sealed by that!... I'll grab a 'pick' and start poking, many thanks

I bought mine on e-bay for under $30 Aust. It is well made , holds 600ml.. oh hell whats that in old English?... approx 1 pint I think. Easy to assemble and fit... had to make a bracket up to keep it vertical. I do have one minor problem that I caused myself. I wasnt paying attention to the assembly details and left out 2 small seals.... and it leaks a little. MIne is mounted between the battery and the wheel/suspension bulge. I have removed the dipstick (where all the oil was escaping under pressure) and connected a tube from dipstick to catch can.

Now the revelation.... Have I been panicking over nothing ? Are these 4 bolts actually seat-belt mountings? it would make sense. There were no seat belts in the car when I bought it. Were they a standard fitting? If so, I will have to fit them to be 'legal' in South Australia. ... and the other conclusion based upon them being seat belt mounts... is that there are so seat-back bolt holes-- which would not be a problem as the back is secure once the bottom is in place. Your comments please?

The bolts (4 of) that were in the unknown holes...

bolt holes not near back-'bolt-tag' No holes near 'tag'

4 bolts (I put these bolts in to seal the holes) 1 bolt out of picture

Seat seems to fit with no undue gaps WIdth of the back from back corner to back corner is 43.5 inches

I really appreciate your reply. Please first up, can we define the 3 differnt models, I have a feeling that our 'type names' may differ I know them as: Convertible (obvious really and we cant really differ) Fastback (also fairly obvious) Hardtop /Coupe ( the 'standard' 2 door body shape, body style 65A) My car has 4 retaining screws with monstrous washers, but the seat back has the 2 frame protrusions to match the 2 sheet metal screws you describe. Are you able to identify with my description of the 4 bolt positions, please? Are the seats themselves (the part you sit on....) the same across all models? From what I have read the Fastback rear seat (back) is hinged and folds down, so I dont expect that would need 4 mounting bolts I'll post some photos later today. Your assistance is greatly appreciated. dmck

I have a 69 hardtop, (not fastback) and the rear sweat back has only 2 'bolt brackets' that do not match the 4 bolt holes meant to fix the seat. From on line drawings it appears as if the back is out of a convertible, though it seems a good fit. The seat itself appears to be a good fit and seems to fit the holding brackets. I want to invest in new seat covers but am reluctant to do so until I determine if the convertible seats are the same size and shape as the hardtop standard seats. I was hoping the code would tell me what car the seats were meant for. I may have a mix of models in the back. If it is, as Midlife suggests, a manufacturers code it should identify the vehicle model it was made for.... SO... how do I investigate further? ... please? If I can find another 69 near me ( not an easy task as I am in Adelaide, South Australia) I will have a car to compare to... Fastbacks are easy to find but hardtops are rare....

There is a metal tag attached under my rear seat and I presume it is a trim code. I cannot find any info to 'decode' it and any info/help will be greatly appreciated. the code is in 2 lines : VC8ZB-6563120-B LSI-SK-259-8-A