BuckeyeDemon

years of being a bachelor has taught me well...! good luck with your rebuild.

years of being a bachelor has taught me well...! good luck with your rebuild.

mikestang, are you talking about a set of cast 4V cleveland heads on a windsor as working well or windsor heads on a windsor? you mention 4V heads, and there were no such thing for a 351W. Cleveland of course. i've never, ever heard anything positive about a stock windsor head as a performance item. if it was my wife, i would just perform a basic rebuild and save the money on something for myself. why risk having her put the car in the ditch.

mikestang, are you talking about a set of cast 4V cleveland heads on a windsor as working well or windsor heads on a windsor? you mention 4V heads, and there were no such thing for a 351W. Cleveland of course. i've never, ever heard anything positive about a stock windsor head as a performance item. if it was my wife, i would just perform a basic rebuild and save the money on something for myself. why risk having her put the car in the ditch.

glad you're happy!

glad you're happy!

i had a 289 with piston slap (almost 20 years ago). the cylinders were honed too many times leaving excessive piston clearance. it was more than a tick sound. i thought it was a rod, so i pulled the motor and after some checking i think the pistons measured a little more than .010" smaller than the bore. it's been too long to remember. i'm pretty sure the knock also became much worse as the engine temperature increased.

i had a 289 with piston slap (almost 20 years ago). the cylinders were honed too many times leaving excessive piston clearance. it was more than a tick sound. i thought it was a rod, so i pulled the motor and after some checking i think the pistons measured a little more than .010" smaller than the bore. it's been too long to remember. i'm pretty sure the knock also became much worse as the engine temperature increased.

comp cam and lifters have sold. thanks.

comp cam and lifters have sold. thanks.

everything has sold. thanks.

everything has sold. thanks.

are you referring to the drain plug installed in the trunk drop off? if so, why would you not reinstall one?

are you referring to the drain plug installed in the trunk drop off? if so, why would you not reinstall one?

i have been torn on how to refinish natural steel parts. should i leave them natural and periodically clean/coat with cosmoline/oil versusor should i paint. with paint my concerns are scratching during reassembly and of course the paint just looking awful. so i did some research on some various forums and decided to test some of the recommendations. the pictures are of the same panel, just different lighting. I have left off Eastwood's detail gray since i would have had to order it and the fact it had many poor reviews (and of course positive reviews since it is so heavily marketed). 1. Rust-Oleum Professional Stainless Steel (7519) 1a. Rust-Oleum Professional Stainless Steel (7519) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313) 2. Dupli-Color Gunmetal Gray (T177) 2a. Dupli-Color Gunmetal Gray (T177) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313) 3. Dupli-Color Machinery Gray (DA1612) 3a. Dupli-Color Machinery Gray (DA1612) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313) 4. Seymour Stainless Steel (16-054) 4a. Seymour Stainless Steel (16-054) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313) 5. Dupli-Color Cast Coat Aluminum (DE1650) 5a. Dupli-Color Cast Coat Aluminum (DE1650) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313) 6. Seymour Aluminum (16-1201) 6a. Seymour Aluminum (16-1201) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313) 7. Aluminum Oxide Media Blasted 8. Aluminum Oxide Media Blasted w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313) 9. Natural Steel Any recommendations or Feedback? I personally think they all come up way short. I will probably go with #4 and mix in #4a and #1 for some diversity.

i have been torn on how to refinish natural steel parts. should i leave them natural and periodically clean/coat with cosmoline/oil versusor should i paint. with paint my concerns are scratching during reassembly and of course the paint just looking awful. so i did some research on some various forums and decided to test some of the recommendations. the pictures are of the same panel, just different lighting. I have left off Eastwood's detail gray since i would have had to order it and the fact it had many poor reviews (and of course positive reviews since it is so heavily marketed). 1. Rust-Oleum Professional Stainless Steel (7519) 1a. Rust-Oleum Professional Stainless Steel (7519) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313) 2. Dupli-Color Gunmetal Gray (T177) 2a. Dupli-Color Gunmetal Gray (T177) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313) 3. Dupli-Color Machinery Gray (DA1612) 3a. Dupli-Color Machinery Gray (DA1612) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313) 4. Seymour Stainless Steel (16-054) 4a. Seymour Stainless Steel (16-054) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313) 5. Dupli-Color Cast Coat Aluminum (DE1650) 5a. Dupli-Color Cast Coat Aluminum (DE1650) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313) 6. Seymour Aluminum (16-1201) 6a. Seymour Aluminum (16-1201) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313) 7. Aluminum Oxide Media Blasted 8. Aluminum Oxide Media Blasted w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313) 9. Natural Steel Any recommendations or Feedback? I personally think they all come up way short. I will probably go with #4 and mix in #4a and #1 for some diversity.

in the for sale section, i'm selling an original set of those brackets for a 351W if interested.

in the for sale section, i'm selling an original set of those brackets for a 351W if interested.

if your car is mainly original, then try to patch the hole and retain all of the original features of the original apron. if you have the a 69, i believe the aftermarket apron may have some features for a 70. if originality is not a priority, then the apron's are relatively easy to replace. just be sure to make measurements before cutting.

if your car is mainly original, then try to patch the hole and retain all of the original features of the original apron. if you have the a 69, i believe the aftermarket apron may have some features for a 70. if originality is not a priority, then the apron's are relatively easy to replace. just be sure to make measurements before cutting.

just an idea for anyone wanting to build a quick cart for your shell. i built this last year, but stole two of the box tubes to make the subframe connectors. so i tacked up two more piece of box tube. it works relatively well. it only takes about 30 minutes or so to build up. i don't like the air filled tires though. they just don't want to swivel well on the ground. and of course you can't mock up the motor or driveline on this thing. just moving the car to a different location, keeps the stale feeling at bay! when i pulled the motor back out, i snapped a picture of the cylinder. TFS high port heads have the intake valve moved towards the center of the cylinder. this is one reason why this head is better than many. less intake valve shrouding. it may also be a reason why Fox Lake further worked the combustion chamber shape and opened up the exhaust port a bit to balance out the flow. my block has never been bored, so this is the shrouding on a 4" bore.

just an idea for anyone wanting to build a quick cart for your shell. i built this last year, but stole two of the box tubes to make the subframe connectors. so i tacked up two more piece of box tube. it works relatively well. it only takes about 30 minutes or so to build up. i don't like the air filled tires though. they just don't want to swivel well on the ground. and of course you can't mock up the motor or driveline on this thing. just moving the car to a different location, keeps the stale feeling at bay! when i pulled the motor back out, i snapped a picture of the cylinder. TFS high port heads have the intake valve moved towards the center of the cylinder. this is one reason why this head is better than many. less intake valve shrouding. it may also be a reason why Fox Lake further worked the combustion chamber shape and opened up the exhaust port a bit to balance out the flow. my block has never been bored, so this is the shrouding on a 4" bore.

just an idea for anyone wanting to build a quick cart for your shell. i built this last year, but stole two of the box tubes to make the subframe connectors. so i tacked up two more piece of box tube. it works relatively well. it only takes about 30 minutes or so to build up. i don't like the air filled tires though. they just don't want to swivel well on the ground. and of course you can't mock up the motor or driveline on this thing. just moving the car to a different location, keeps the stale feeling at bay! when i pulled the motor back out, i snapped a picture of the cylinder. TFS high port heads have the intake valve moved towards the center of the cylinder. this is one reason why this head is better than many. less intake valve shrouding. it may also be a reason why Fox Lake further worked the combustion chamber shape and opened up the exhaust port a bit to balance out the flow. my block has never been bored, so this is the shrouding on a 4" bore.

finally finished. i added a 1/4" spacer under the carb to bring everything back up a bit. i removed a little ribbing in the midplate that you probably can't see or notice. also made a side bracket that bolts to the intake. the snorkel is not a true 351W shaker snorkel. it's technically for a 351W non-shaker. i had to relocate the holes and trim a little on the flange. i also had to find an elbow to fit the base. i just need to clean it up and get the right fasteners for it.

finally finished. i added a 1/4" spacer under the carb to bring everything back up a bit. i removed a little ribbing in the midplate that you probably can't see or notice. also made a side bracket that bolts to the intake. the snorkel is not a true 351W shaker snorkel. it's technically for a 351W non-shaker. i had to relocate the holes and trim a little on the flange. i also had to find an elbow to fit the base. i just need to clean it up and get the right fasteners for it.