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KMD88

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Posts posted by KMD88


  1. Hi everyone,

    Wanted to start changing my own oil (and other projects down the line) and am putting my 69 Mach 1 on jack stands for the first time. I've watched some videos and have a pretty good idea of where to put the stands, but wanted to get the community's two cents on a couple points: 

    1. What are the optimal jack points for the 69? 
    2. Any recommendations for jacks/jack stands? 

    Thank you!


  2. Nope, never pulled the trigger, but appreciate you checking in. Felt I needed some more time to learn after hearing the feedback from the community. Plus, nothing's malfunctioning right now so there's no real rush. I'm still keen to do it just to learn the ins and outs of the system, but I'd prefer to have a partner on the project and the right amount of time dedicated to it. 


  3. Wow, thanks everyone for the feedback. I appreciate it. Also appreciate everyone's recommendations for Randy/Midlife. Speaking of Midlife, your reputation is legendary. Appreciate the information and the help. 

    Just to make sure there's no confusion, I've been driving the car for the last 3 years. I've only had a garage for the last 4 months, which is why I'm looking into working on it much more since I have the benefit of the space now. 

    I just figured it'd be good to get in there and replace everything as an opportunity to learn about the car more. But the adage of "if it's not broke, don't fix it" is true. 

    Would it be better to just pick a smaller project, like upgrading the headlights, and work with the current wiring as an opportunity to learn about the car and wiring in general? 


  4. Hi everyone,

    As mentioned in my previous thread, I've just started working on my car now that I have a garage. 

    Everything's working fine, but I was considering having my next project be wiring. I came hear to ask - given my current level of expertise - if I'm insane to be taking on a task like this so soon. 

    The reasons I considered doing wiring next are a few. First, besides small wiring upgrades for dash components that failed or when I upgraded the AC to Vintage Air (all done by my mechanic), the wiring hasn't been touched and (to my knowledge) is stock. At some point, those wires are gonna fail, and I'd rather have the peace of mind knowing the car's got brand new wiring across the board; wiring I installed and know how to troubleshoot. 

    More importantly, I felt like this would be a good project to really learn my car. I'm gonna have to go through every area and take apart / reinstall the dash, doors, trunk, etc. If I can pull this off, I feel like sky's the limit. There were some upgrades I considered in the future primarily for safety reasons (LED headlights, maybe Dakota Digital Dash) and figured this would be a springboard for when I'm ready to undertake those projects. 

    All opinions/advice appreciated. Thank you. 


  5. On 8/9/2022 at 10:02 AM, aslanefe said:

    Give it as much advance as possible without pinging. Increase the timing 2 degrees then drive it, if it is not pinging, give 2 more degrees. Keep increasing the timing as above until it pings; when it pings, take 2 degrees of timing. My engine is at 18 degrees timing and idles at 570 rpm when in gear (auto). Every engine is different, so you have to play with it to find the optimum timing.

    Thanks for the extra advice aslanefe. I'll definitely do it that way when continuing to tweak. I noticed that even the slightest of distributor turns yielded a big difference, so going two degrees at a time makes sense. 


  6. 13 hours ago, aslanefe said:

    Did you adjust the timing to a given value or did you adjust it to what your engine likes?

    Both, honestly. Tuning the carburetor for the first time a couple weeks ago gave me a good sense of what the engine likes (and driving it lean for some time gave me an idea of what it should NOT sound like). Plus, I had watched enough YouTube videos that provided what I should be hearing for while tuning. 

    When I started focusing on ignition timing, I started with Midlife and Mach1Driver's rpm recommendations. Luckily, the lines for top dead center and 10 degrees BTDC were clearly marked on the harmonic balancer, so I ended up landing somewhere in the middle as the current sweet spot. 

     


  7. 1 hour ago, aslanefe said:

    Figure out a way to install the vacuum gage, it is a valuable tool for tuning. Carb adjustment/tuning is only one part of the equation; advance/distributor tuning is the other part of the equation for a good running engine.

    Agreed, I need to get that vacuum gauge on there. The manifold rubber gaskets just weren’t giving when I tried to pull them out. Maybe I just wasn’t forcing it enough. 


  8. 2 hours ago, Brian Conway said:

    The motor, carb and intake info might help?  Idle mixture screws are a great start.  Easy to do and undo. We all like to work on acceleration.  Professional tuning is usually best left alone.  That said with the help of a tach (so you will have a base rpm) you could adjust the idle rpm's using the idle adjustment screw.  Brian

    It’s a 351 Windsor with a Holley street warrior carb.

    Happen to know any good tutorials on how to install a tach?


  9. I know it’s a very easy thing, but happy to report I tuned my carburetor today. Only did idle mixture screws, but the car was running a little sluggish and I was able to fix it with just 3/4 of a full turn on each side to richen the mix.

    Baby steps to bigger things, but it’s something! 

    I had bought a vacuum gauge but had issue removing the rubber gaskets of the manifold vacuum port (the port is also a little blocked by the Monte Carlo bar I previously installed) so wasn’t able to take a reading. 
     

    Sort of want to work on acceleration next. After my last professional tune-up, the mechanic told me he increased the RPM’s. Ever since then, feel like the car needs a little more throttle to go and the pedal feels a little firmer. Would adjusting the idle speed screw help that?

    Thanks to all for all your help!


  10. On 6/14/2022 at 12:12 PM, aslanefe said:

    I installed Sniper 2300. Besides replacing mulfunctioning IAC and temp sensor and spending a lot of time trying to tune it, it is okay. I would say that carb is more reliable, no electric pump or other sensors etc to fail and leave you stranded. I can get a car with carb and points ignition going with a few basic tools, some wire, hose and duct tape and not have to wait for a tow truck, not with EFI.

    Do you happen to know any good videos on Carb tuning? That’s one of the first things I want to learn. 


  11. On 6/10/2022 at 3:03 AM, aslanefe said:

    The reason was, I wanted to see/experience the EFI on a classic daily driver. On my carbed cars, I have to press the gas pedal once or twice to activate the choke/prime the intake depending on how long the car sat, outside temp etc; with Sniper, I have to turn the key on, wait 2-3 seconds for Sniper to prime the intake and then start the car. That is the only difference, I can not feel any improvements but I have not dynoed the car before and after and never calculated the mpg.

    I see, interesting. Thanks for the info!

    How was reliability with EFI? Did you ever experience any new issues after installing? 


  12. 3 hours ago, aslanefe said:

    I drove my 70 Grande with Autolite 2100 for over 25 years in big city traffic, in winter with snow etc as daily driver; still drive it a few hundred miles every summer. Only thing I had to do that car in those years was to replace the accelarator pump once.  Have been driving my 69 Grande with Sniper EFI for over 2 years as daily driver in a small city where it snows every 4-5 years. Comparing these two cars, I do not see anything that can compound over time.  My second 70 Grande I am restoring now will stay carbureted.

    Thanks for the examples. Definitely something to think about. I'm a ways away from it at this point with my current knowledge base, so I have time to think it over.

    What motivated you to originally add EFI to the 69 Grande? 


  13. On 6/8/2022 at 12:13 PM, aslanefe said:

    If you are just going to cruise on sunny days, skip the EFI and stay with carb unless you are a good EFI tuner.

    I've gone back and forth with doing EFI. I'm hoping to drive the car more regularly and, living in LA, I've heard having EFI helps when stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic and cuts down on warm-up time, idling irregularities due to external circumstances (weather), etc.. I know these are small things, but over time it compounds. 


  14. On 6/8/2022 at 8:50 AM, Brian Conway said:

    So what's under the hood?  How close to stock is the drive train? Brian

    351 Windsor. Besides putting in a bigger radiator everything's pretty much stock there. Petronix ignition system added by previous owner. 

    Via a local mechanic: Modified suspension (Bilstein front and rear shocks). Did the arning drop and added monte carlo bar, export brace and front sway bar. 

    Those are the big changes at this point. 


  15. 14 hours ago, potato said:

    The best advice i can muster up is get a car you're not afraid to work on and learn on.  If your mustang is too nice, you can be intimidated by it.  Get yourself something more ugly or more basic so you aren't afraid to wrench on it.

     

    From there, just start learning how each of the systems work.  Brakes, fuel delivery, power steering, cooling, spark/ignition, electrical/charging, etc.  Every part of the car has a purpose.  And once you understand the purpose, you can understand what happens when that part is broken or acting up.

    Fair point, thanks potato. I've actually stayed away from starting any body work, etc. for this very reason :) 

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