stangme428

more progress... after a little reading, seems it is the easy thing to do, and that's drill the water passages to match the intake and gaskets. also, nice little note inside the ARP 12pt SS engine bolt kit that gives a number to call to exchange out the bolts that do not fit your application. spoke with ARP, just send the bolts that do not apply back, with the specs on the needed items, and they ship the new items back out. below is a photo of the valley girdle pro, probably the most controversial part in the build. the surface was machined flat and tapped at the mounting point in the valley per the valley girdle pro install instructions.. you can pick out the comp cams 8931-16 linked lifters.. with the comp cams 8.450 x 3/8 x .080 wall pushrods... I tried to "over build" where I could without throwing money away. I should "never":tongue_smilie: reach the limits of the all forged internals with a stock 69 block. allthough the early blocks are supposed to handle more horsepower, I wanted give the motor the opportunity to live a long life with a canton main girdle support, valley girdle pro up top with internal balanced crank and TCI 870010 rattler damper. photo of the canton main girdle photo of the clearancing of the block at the melling HV oil pump.. more to come ... :rockon:

the clevor longblock is almost complete, ran into an opportunity today, I need to exchange or purchase intake bolts for the clevor intake, the ones in the ARP engine kit didn't fit .. dont know what I was thinking. and also another opportunity on the water passages, seems the front water passages on the heads are missing.. :helpsmilie: ... so the water crossover between the heads that flows thru the track boss intake is not going to work until we either drill out the water passages on the heads, or come up with another method using the plugs in the front of the heads. gonna do some research on this ... cant believe i missed it. awaiting a email/call from lawrence at ausfordparts dot com. here is a shot of the motor painted and with the intake resting in the valley.. ashame you have to cover up all those beautiful parts.. canton 15-680S road race pan with baffles 9qt.. gulp :punk::punk::punk:

i have been researching the hydraboost from hydratech ... it says it is a direct replacement for factory power disc brakes.. but i was wondering if and when i upgrade to my dream of 13" baer or wilwood system if it would work ok. fvike .. how is the brake pedal feel? any pics of the setup? im also looking at a hydraulic clutch setup so seeing your booster setup may give me a idea of where to mount.. :tongue_smilie:

Ah i see ... nice!

Cool, so on the AJE kit you can still flatten out the shock towers? or just trim back a bit? i would love to find a 69 shell (i think) and go the modular route... i loved the mod motor in my 96 cobra, can only imagine a modular motor with a SC and 6 gears... is anybody actually using the epoxy methods instead of welding? i had a body guy tell me a year or so ago that he only used the "epoxy ready" panels when he did early mustangs. keep up the great work! :tongue_smilie:

thanks for the input everyone.. much appreciated!! :biggrin:

wow more options that i thought ...

dragpack69 thanks for the input... after more research it looks like most are going with urethane. so ill try some and see what happens. but would still be interesting to see what most here are using...

OK, motor mounts to hold 500hp/500tq stroked 408 clevor... I want to drive without my teeth rattling. so I would think solid mounts are out, but I have never owned or driven a car with solid mounts. will the urethane mounts hold up? This is a street car with hopefully some autocross later in its life. what motor mounts are you performance guys running?

Great to see another clevor build!! :punk:

wow ... looks great! i bet its a blast to drive! cant wait to see progress.. keep uploading those photos!

i stopped by the machine shop today .. 1.7.09. the short block is together ... taking the timing cover by next week .. long block assembly may be done next week 1.12.09 with possible pick up the following week.. 1.18.09 if i can get down to Jacksonville. the motor looks amazing painted inside and out... i took a few picks and left a disposable digital camera behind for the builder to take pics of what remians of the long block build. cant wait! :tongue_smilie: i need to contact mallory and holley to find out what gear i need for the unilite distributor, and also which holley 750 carb to order. i would love to go accel thruster and efi .. but maybe later... we shall see. im trying to get ready for the 45th celebration in Birmingham in April. :punk:

i called don barry's shop a couple of times a few weeks in a row and left messages. but no replies. so, if they are that busy ill try to find somewhere else to get body work and paint. i understand shops get busy. i plan on going by hp performance in jax at some point to check out the shop and get some recommendations on paint and body work. i ordered my valley girdle kit from them and also talked to them on the phone a few times. nice people to talk with.

ok, i finally posted a few photos of the parts for the clevor build. yeah i know they are just parts, but i have been trying to build this motor for many years.. 1)Yes those are cleveland pistons...30 over. nice relief for those canted valves.. the weakest link in the build ... ring valley into the pin.. she should be fine... comp height is 1.250 2) part number for the pistons 3)The AFD 2V 64cc heads look simply amazing. I'm looking for a nice valve cover for them AFD ports and spring hardware....:tongue_smilie: AFD valves !!! :tongue_smilie: and a sneak peak at the viper t56 I ended up with a 6.250 Chevy 350 rod too.. more to come.... :punk:

flight96, you are correct on the holes being needed. there is a long thread on ford muscle dot com about the cleveland blocks with reliefs cut into the top of the bores from the factory. so when you install cleveland heads on a windsor block you do the same. ill try and find some pics. its not that much just dont go below the top ring height. some use the head gasket as a template. as for the pistons, i have a set of KB110's i didn't use that may be for sale. i ended up going with a complete stroker kit with forged srp pistons, scat h beam rods and scat forged crank. i purchased them from aus ford parts dot com. i plan on doing a complete write up after the holidays. im sitting down with the engine builder for pictures and noting all the items he did for the clevor build. a good bit of information all over the web. so i just want to document my build of a clevor 408.... next up after the engine build.. is mounting the Viper T56.

for all the 351 clevor builders out in the world... wondering what push rod length people end up with, i ended up with comp cams 3/8 - 8.45 push rods. also, should end up @ 11.1 on the comp ratio with the flat top pistons with canted valve relief ... the AFD heads are super efficient so we will see how the test and tune ends up with different octane fuels. would love to get this motor on an engine dyno .. but cant seem to locate one .. and when i do... its down for repairs.. shooting for 500hp/500tq btw... block mod for valves? no you say.... well ... yes if you look at the SVO head gaskets the block is .. clearanced... machined etc... at the bore where the valve gets near the block. seems they are also done the same on a cleveland block. the engine builder had to message the melling oil pump and canton crank scraper in order to get the main girdle, crank scraper and oil pan to fit. seems odd since it was ordered as a complete... expensive...kit from Canton... but oh well. when you build something different ... modification come out of the wood work..:hammer: :tongue_smilie: i hope everyone has a great holiday! :santa:

What clutch setup are you going with on the T56? just curious, looks like I am going with a kit from Modern Driveline. would be interested in what you decided to go with and why. great build .. keep the updates going!

:tongue_smilie: 69 coupe is an original 351W FMX/Auto, so I need everything to convert to manual trans. T56 update- ordering the following parts from Modern Driveline: MD-LBS157-00 Flywheel, LBS, Ford, 157 Tooth 0 balance w/option for bolt on weights MD-403-1001 Bolt kit, Flywheel, 7/16", Ford/Chevy (set of 6) MD-403-1003 Pressure plate bolt kit, 8mm (set of 6) MD-KK7-426 Clutch Set, Kevlar/Kevlar, 26 spline, 1-1/8", Cable T/O, pilot, alignment tool. MD-514-14-301 Hydraulic, slave cylinder assy with steel collar, Viper MD-75-750U Master Cylinder, Tilton, 3/4" bore, Remote reservoirs MD-6773M-CMT56 Crossmember Kit 67-73 Mustang T56 with Polyurethane mount MD-601-1350-30 Slip yoke, 30 spline, 1350 U-joint, Viper T-56 ATF Oil, ATF, Amsoil 1 quart bottle MD-504-1057 Shift ball, Hurst 6 speed, white 3/8-16 MD-504-1040 Shift lever, Hurst, Chrome, Classic style (65-68 Mustang) 10x5.5x1.3 MD-504-1060-H Boot, Shift, Hurst, B-4 Boot & Plate - Comes complete with chrome trim plate and all mounting hardware. MD-402-6970M-C Clutch pedal, 69-70 Mustang/Cougar interesting adventure with UPS on the trans shipment. it was shipped in a transmission specific shipping box. arrived with no staples and taped together with no wooden slats on bottom. went thru the wringer, but survived.:shifty:

wow! long time since a post.. so .. note to self ... plan better! dont order parts during sema... OK... the engine build is way over budget and over built in a few areas. Key items to note: pistons were 30K out of the block so 20K were removed. no valve clearance problems. 69' date code block rattler dampner modern driveline T56 kit -157 tooth 0 balance flywheel rotating assembly balanced moly push rods measured today 12.16.08 -8.45- and to be ordered manley 3/8 guide plates, arp 7/16 studs comp cams 1330-16 1.7 roller rockers ARP head stud kit comp cams 35-462-8 304HR cam canton road race oil pan, crank scraper, main girdle support valley girdle support so why is the motor taking so long? i live 2 hours from the machine shop that's in Jacksonville, fl. i work in Jacksonville two long hopefully productive days a week. doing research and more research.. only have one shot to build it correctly. more info and pics to come!! :tongue_smilie:

A little progress .... SCAT forged stroker kit arrived, hope to have it at the machine shop next week 10.13.08 so they can finish the 69' 351W block. Interesting that the crank balance sheet shows internally balanced. AFD 2V 64cc heads are on the way as of Friday 10.10.08 .... Also purchased a used Viper T56 with Quick Time bell housing. I'm researching the T56 installation kits with hydraulic clutch setup from D&D Performance, Autoworks International and modern driveline. Still trying to decide on a color.... the current electric blue or dark blue (vista blue ?) is winning at the moment. :tongue_smilie:

sweet ride.... nice specs... cant wait to see how it goes... im finally building my dream motor too ... looking at a box full of parts from scat .. woo hoo.. :tongue_smilie:

Ok, I have a lead on a shop in Gainesville, FL ... I'll try to contact them this week. L&R restorations, Gainsville Florida. Anybody used them?

ok, I need some help finding a shop within 1-2 hours away that is reputable. I'm in south ga about 40 minutes west from the coast. I'm looking into Don Berry's classics in Jacksonville, FL .. but I cant seem to schedule a meeting/time to drop by and I found a bad story on cardomain.com. SO, Im back to square one looking for a shop to paint and a little body work. I also posted in the photochop section for some help with changing the color on my car to calypso coral with the boss 302 treatment...:helpsmilie:

hello, photochop experts... :helpsmilie:...can you make my car 69 calypso coral with and without the vinyl top? i cant decide on a color, im also looking at the maier racing shelby style rear spoiler with end caps... and also the side scoops. and a boss 429 hood scoop... boss 302 scheme too.. flat black hood, headlight buckets, rear panel and C stripe..but thats a lot of work.. if just a color change thats cool.. thanks in advance.. :tongue_smilie: bringin up the rear... one more to mod

I found the info on kelly hotrod site... http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/engine3.html some good numbers here..