unilec
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Posts posted by unilec
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Could also be an issue with the leaf springs, measure from the back spring bolt to the center of the axle on both sides and see if there is a difference.
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Wow, that motor looks amazing, this guy from New Zealand must have a bucket load of cash, or is he paying you in sheep :-)
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I remember a long time ago making a bracket such as this one to preposition a T5 shifter in a 65 mustang, not sure if you can do the same.
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Sounds like the carb is getting to hot, so try a phenolic carb spacer and see if that helps.
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Also bare in mind that the solenoid does not have to be mounted next to the battery, you can mount it anywhere in the front even under the dash panel on the firewall if you want.
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6 minutes ago, 1969_Mach1 said:So far then, depending on the imbalance of the internal rotating assembly you either need to replace the flex plate with one that has a 28 oz. imbalance or you need a harmonic balancer with a 50 oz. imbalance.
Either way, its something that needs be addressed before you pull the engine. If it the flex plate, its a hell of a lot cheaper than having the internals balanced and then to find you still have a vibration.
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Just thought I would add additional info to your question, one thing you never do is sand base coat, especially metallic, but even base colours as it can change the colour or cause patches and any scratches will be seen though the clear coat, you can however lightly remove nibs in the base and use a tack rag. That's why I clear coat over base before sanding.
Hope this makes sense.
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So I have always found it best to lay down the stripe colour first, you need a couple of clear coats on top because you need to flatten the paint with 800 wet grit, because you need a smooth flat surface to lay the tape on, this is to avoid paint bleed under the tape, one thing you don't want to do is go through to the base colour, that means you will need to start again. You also need to buy your paint from the same supplier and not mix and match base or clear. Some need to lay down an etch primer first some have a DTM (direct to metal) 2 pack primer, I would suggest using a 2 pack high fill primer over the entire car to start with, I also like to apply filler to bare metal, some like to lay filler on top of primer. Go to this web site, their paint is good quality and a good price, you can also join up if you need advice from professional painters.
https://www.autobody101.com/forums/
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This is how I do it, lay down the stripe colour and then cover with two coats of clear, let it flash off for a couple of days and then flatten with 800 grit, mask off your stripes with 3M fine line tape and spray the base colour, short flash off time and then remove tape and clear coat the entire car. Let it dry and degas for a week to 10 days and if you want you can flatten again and apply two more coats of clear. Just make sure that you clean the panels thoroughly and wipe down with wax and grease remover before painting
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It sounds like the torque converter has not been fitted properly, maybe check that first, you need to have it seated correctly.
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Probable a better idea is to measure the FMX from the back of the engine to the slip yoke and then compare the measurement with your top loader.
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Its hard to say what has been done to your car over the years, but it may have had an early system along the lines of these systems. I know it a vette, but it may give you an idea.
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What you have to bare in minds is that its a 12volt system and because of that you need to take into account the volt drop so over the distance you mentioned, yes you need to use 0 AWG gauge wire. CCA of a starter motor can exceed 400 amps on start up.
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Your car is coming along very well. I have seen a few cars that can buy replacement patch panels for the lower doors, cannot believe no one has made a patch panel for the Mustangs, I would really like to keep my original doors, that also have rust issues at the inner bottoms.
http://shoebox-central.com/1949-1950-1951-ford-lower-door-bottom-rust-repair-patch-panel-kit
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3 hours ago, cffisher said:we have brake lights I kind of figured it was a breaker bad but can't find it.
Not 100% sure, but I think the CB is part of the headlight switch.
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You need a piston stop to find top dead centre, then you can mark your damper. -
Yeah, was just wondering if you still had a bit of air in the master cylinder, always a good idea to bench bleed masters. The push rod between the booster and master is also adjustable.
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6 hours ago, bryonbush said:Hey partner, any update? For as long as I have had my 69, even with all new every thing related to the brakes and they still suck. At this point I'm thinking it's maybe just the pads because I've bled this system a gazillion times and nothing seems to change
Does it still feel like you have air in the system?
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1 hour ago, RPM said:Ditto on Midlife's post. Huskinhano over on the Mustang Steve site has a great write up on home DIY alignments. After reading his story I did my own, I won't pay for another alignment.
I don't see any pics showing up on the VMF site, just interested to see what he did.
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I remember reading somewhere, that the pump rotation is important, maybe the wrong turning direction.
Hi Amps, need serpentine
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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So it seems you are determined to go with a serpentine belt, although I cannot see why, the main problem people come across with alternator upgrades is the belt wrap, if you look at the picture that Vicfreg posted you can see that he has at least 50 percent belt wrap, i have seen others that have Less than 20 and complain of issues like squeaking and belt slippage. So I would suggest you purchase a 130A alternator and just try it first and as you are looking for more of an original look it would be my first option.
If you want to determine you total current draw, I would suggest you either buy or borrow a digital DC amp clamp meter or find some one who has one you can borrow, you then need to up the engine revs to about 2000 rpm and switch on one circuit at a time and note the results after you allow that battery, which hopefully is in good condition to recover, a decent battery will "float" at the optimal voltage and really not have a great impact on the alternator output.