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barnett468

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Posts posted by barnett468

  3. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, JayEstes said:

    Wow.  Interesting thread.  So I went to the US Radiator site to see about getting the right radiator new.  If I found the right page it is this:

    http://www.usradiator.com/ford-mustang-1967-69-v8-260-289-302-351-radiator.html

    Here are the prices.  Looks like $600 for a 3-row with trans cooler.  Man, thats a lot of dough.

    image.png.bc615be06853f72e47dc05086eeba506.png

     

     

    Ok here's the deal,. If you currently have a standard 3 row big tube rad and it is not plugged up, and your engine is properly tuned but it runs hot at cruising speed, and and you want a copper brass rad. A  $600.00 standard rad will NOT properly cool it and you will have to buy a high efficiency one, and probably one with the multi pass option.

    You also must run a high flow water pump and brass milodon high flow thermostat if you use a rad that is bigger than stock if you want to get the most benefit from it.

    If your car never runs hot with the current rad, even in the summer with the ac on, there is no need to change the rad.

    An aluminum rad is far less expensive but obviously they don't look original.

    JayEstes reacted to this

  4. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Print Dad said:

    1. - The radiator is at least 45 years old but I don't think original to the car I have had the car that long.

    I am torn between having it fixed or just getting a new one.The price is about the same $350.00

    There is only 1 company that makes the rad with the correct size tubes and they are called US Radiator, and they sell them through their retail business in arizona named cool craft, and the basic model will cost more than $350.00.

    If you have it recored, they will install a chinese core with the small tubes and then they will likely lie to you and tell you that it will cool just as good, or possibly even better than the large tube core the factory rad has.

    As I mentioned, if you do not the trans cooler in the rad, I can sell you mine.

     

     

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Ok that is the wrong shroud. It should be perfectly straight on the outside edges.

    I may have an nos ford one or one made from the original mold if you want you buy it.

    You can have the neck removed and reclocked by a rad shop so that the overflow points to the drivers side which would be correct, which will fix both problems.

     I will bet that is also a small tube chinese radiator. If you remove the rad cap and take a photo of the tubes and post it I can tell you. I have correct rads for manual trans cars so they don't have the trans cooler in them.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    one thing you can do is install the rad and the shroud and the fan blade then center the fan blade in the shroud by moving the shroud around then see where the shroud is on the rad. this will tell you whether it is the shroud or the tabs on the rad for mounting the shroud that are incorrect. it is most likely a little of both but mainly the tabs on the rad.

     

  11. Posted · Report reply

    You may have to remove the belt and possibly the adjusting bolt also to get the pump to swing away far enough.

    Yeah, it is unlikely that the sender is causing it to read low, and the new senders are not exactly the same as the old ones, so it may cause your gauge to read even lower or slightly higher. If you are seriously concerned about it, rent an oil pressure gauge from oreily or somewhere or buy one from harbor freight etc, or even better, just install a real gauge setup.

     

  12. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Rich Ackermann said:

    Thanks Barnett468. I did not think I could do without a Proportioning Valve entirely.

    I always thought i would need disc to disc valve, but I am hoping that I can find one that mounts and connects like the stock disc to drum valve does to minimize the brake line mods.

    I found that CJ Pony Parts lists a GM style Proportioning Valve from CPP (see pic) that claims it can work with either disc to disc or disc to drum.

    Many older cars that came stock with ft and rr discs, do not have a prop valve, but their caliper sizes are designed so they don't need one.

    You will have to do brake line mods.

    C J Pony parts is lying to you.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    you don't run a disc/drum prop valve on a disc/disc system, and in fact, you may not need a prop valve at all. you could try it without one, then if you need one, add it then. irregardless, a basic prop valve from wilwood "should" have enough adjustment for your app.

    i never heard of the brake line kit you have or why it would affect braking bias.

    you should check to make sure there are no residual valves in your master cylinder.

    if you add 2 lb residual valves to the brakes, it will reduce pedal travel slightly but may also cause your brakes to wear a little faster.

    Machspeed reacted to this

  15. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, signorc said:

    Hi Barnett,

    Thanks for the disk/drum mc difference! Very clear and thorough :)

    i'm gonna try my friend's booster....it comes with a 15/16" bore mc (I currently have a 1" bore)..... so comparing it to mine.......I'll be getting more boost and a smaller bore.  I can only assume it should do the trick.

    I'm gonna have to try to adapt my current mc lines to the new one without kinking them.  

    Thanks again for your (& everyone else's) suggestions and comments

    xlnt, just be very careful when you take it out for a test drive the first time.

     

     

  16. Posted · Report reply

    In your particular situation, I for one think you should try your friends booster if you have clearance for the master, and if your brake lines are long enough, especially since there is a possibility that your current booster may still not provide enough force even when it is working properly, and if that is the case, you will have just wasted a bunch of time and money getting it fixed.

    If your brake lines are too short, you will need to get longer ones, but you can buy the brake line in different lengths with the fittings attached, then buy a cheap brake line bending tool.

    Do your front calipers have a brake line connecting the two halves so fluid can flow into each half?

     

     

  17. Posted · Report reply

    21 hours ago, signorc said:

    so here's the question of the day.... how can I know which m/c I have? if it's for power disk or power drum....

    they look identical but how can I tell the difference?

    As far as how much force a master cylinder generates for the same amount of force that is applied to it, there is zero difference between a drum and power brake master.

    The difference is that there is a tiny valve (residual) valve as asleanfe mentioned, in the mater or in the line that goes to the drum brakes. On some cars, this valve is in the brake line port on the master, and on others, it is in the line itself, typically mounted on the rear axle on some front disc/rear drum cars.

    The smaller the piston bore on the master, the less force it will take to stop the vehicle, but the farther the pedal will travel.

    If you have a car with a properly working brake system but it takes a lot of force on the pedal to stop it and the pedal only travels a short distance, like maybe 1". You can install a master sith a slightly smaller bore and it will take less force to stop but the pedal will travel maybe 2" then which is ok as long as it stops abopve the floor by at least 2" for clearance and safey reasons.

    The same affect can be achieved by changing the location of the point on the brake pedal that the booster rad connects to. Moving it up a little will be the same as installing a master with a smaller bore, and moving it down will be the opposite.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, signorc said:

    luck has it that a friend here in Italy has a new 8" booster that he ordered from CJponyparts a while back and never installed it cause he got a Wildwood kit.

    here are a couple of pics and the link to what he has.  any thoughts? not an original Bendix but I think it'll be better than my 9" single diaphragm, right?

    https://www.cjponyparts.com/master-power-brake-booster-conversion-kit-manual-transmission-1967-1970/p/BBCK3/

     

     

    "When I set it up the original booster was bad so they replaced it.  They supplied me the current set up (not to say that they couldn't have made a mistake)."

    Basically, an 8" dual diaphragm booster will provide more fore than a 9" single diaphragm. Since yours is leaking, it may work ok if you get it fixed, however, if your friends booster is not so much longer that it will cause your master cylinder to hit the shock tower, then you might just want to try that one first, plus from the photo on cj pony parts, the brake rod looks bigger/stronger.

     

    1. Did your car have disc brakes originally?

    2. Are you saying the new booster in the kit you bought from them was bad so they sent you the booster you now have which is aso bad?

    3. Is your current booster a single or dual diaphragm?

    4. Is your current booster, longer, shorter, or the same length as your friends?

    5. Is your current booster lager, smaller, or the same size as your friends?

    6. Is the brake rod in your current booster, bigger, smaller, or the same diameter as the rod in your friends booster?

    6. Do you have a drum brake pedal or a disc brake pedal?

     

     

     

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Yes, if you run the engine for a minute, then turn the engine off and do NOT push on the brake pedal, and there is no hissing sound when you remove the valve, and the valve is definitely good, your booster then definitely has a leak, which will reduce its effectiveness.

    This does not mean that you will have great power brakes when that particular booster is not leaking. They will be better but it may or may not make a big improvement, if it does not, a more powerful booster may be necessary.

     

     

     

     

  24. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, signorc said:

    I re-bled the brakes today. the calipers are on correctly with bleeder facing the rear.....and still could not lock up either front or rear by standing on the brake pedal with BOTH feet from about 60mph. Tomorrow I'll check how much vacuum I'm getting to the booster and I'll make the booster push rod a bit longer (again).....

    don't know if this matters but I can't get the brake pedal to the floor.

     

    ok, you should have around .015" clearance between the end of the push rod and the hole in piston in the master in which it pushes on but this can be hard to measure.

    the brake pedal should never go to the floor, however, it will travel noticeably farther with the power booster working than it will with the booster not working.

     

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