69again

Thanks the info. I do have a good shop. I know the owners and they have a specialty department where they do show cars with custom jobs, as well as, their standard repairs. I will know more Wednesday if they have approved all the additionals. I will just have to be patient untill then.

Thanks the info. I do have a good shop. I know the owners and they have a specialty department where they do show cars with custom jobs, as well as, their standard repairs. I will know more Wednesday if they have approved all the additionals. I will just have to be patient untill then.

I got most of my car parts (interior, bolt kits, trim, etc) from mustangsunlimited.com. Didn't have any sheet metal work so can't speak for that. Engine, drivetrain, tires and wheels form Jegs, Summit Racing, and Magna Flow exhaust from our local Schucks. Very quick shipping and only had a few items that were back ordered from Mustangs Unlimited. Seems like decent quality, but I don't have any others to compare to. Others on here will definately know. Easy estimate way for me was to determine all parts needed. I put all items in a cart for each place to get totals and then printed it out. That way down the road I had all the part numbers and could see how it worked with my budget (or how I blew it)

I got most of my car parts (interior, bolt kits, trim, etc) from mustangsunlimited.com. Didn't have any sheet metal work so can't speak for that. Engine, drivetrain, tires and wheels form Jegs, Summit Racing, and Magna Flow exhaust from our local Schucks. Very quick shipping and only had a few items that were back ordered from Mustangs Unlimited. Seems like decent quality, but I don't have any others to compare to. Others on here will definately know. Easy estimate way for me was to determine all parts needed. I put all items in a cart for each place to get totals and then printed it out. That way down the road I had all the part numbers and could see how it worked with my budget (or how I blew it)

Don't know yet. I may be worrying for nothing, I just haven't had to deal with this type of repair before where the finish isn't just oem. They didn't start the work until the inspector gave his initial ok. But that wasn't for as much work as I thought it should require. The shop said they will document the additional work and submit it. They did get some additional hours tacked on, but they found additional work. It is about another $1k over what the insurance inspector estimated. We haven't received the check yet, so I am not sure. I don't know how these processes usually go.

Don't know yet. I may be worrying for nothing, I just haven't had to deal with this type of repair before where the finish isn't just oem. They didn't start the work until the inspector gave his initial ok. But that wasn't for as much work as I thought it should require. The shop said they will document the additional work and submit it. They did get some additional hours tacked on, but they found additional work. It is about another $1k over what the insurance inspector estimated. We haven't received the check yet, so I am not sure. I don't know how these processes usually go.

I will upload them this evening. Because of the angle of the impact, it buckled the right rear quarter down about a 1/4 inch which caused the quarter to buckle inward as well. The frame has been straightend and the buckle came back out without a crease. Very little damage. It was in promer yesterday and should be repainted and clear coated by the end of the week. Color sanding and reassemble early next week. Hopefully, I get it back late next week.

I will upload them this evening. Because of the angle of the impact, it buckled the right rear quarter down about a 1/4 inch which caused the quarter to buckle inward as well. The frame has been straightend and the buckle came back out without a crease. Very little damage. It was in promer yesterday and should be repainted and clear coated by the end of the week. Color sanding and reassemble early next week. Hopefully, I get it back late next week.

Thanks Pak, I will know more towards the end of the week. There wasn't much physical damage to the car, but due to how I finished the car with color sanding, they have to refinish most of the car. I think we will be $400 for bumper and materials and $4.5k in labor. I have the car insured for $20k. My insurance said at any time if I wasn't happy with their insurance that they would take it over and go after them. I have never been in this kind of position before and want to ensure I don't get taken advantage of. I don't think it is related, but my neck does seem to be more sore than usual. Thanks again, Dan

Thanks Pak, I will know more towards the end of the week. There wasn't much physical damage to the car, but due to how I finished the car with color sanding, they have to refinish most of the car. I think we will be $400 for bumper and materials and $4.5k in labor. I have the car insured for $20k. My insurance said at any time if I wasn't happy with their insurance that they would take it over and go after them. I have never been in this kind of position before and want to ensure I don't get taken advantage of. I don't think it is related, but my neck does seem to be more sore than usual. Thanks again, Dan

:sad: Got rear ended when I was out for a Sunday drive. Not a lot of damage, but because of the coupe, they are planning on spraying and color sanding pretty much everything except the font fenders and hood. I have never had to get a classic repaired do to insurance. The other persons insurance seems to be coperating with the repair shop to get it back to how it was. Although we haven't finalized the bill yet. Any special things I should be considering asking of the other drivers insurance company? What has been your issues with getting the insurance to get it right. If they don't agree to pay to get it right, should I threathen a law suit? Thanks for any insight. Dan

:sad: Got rear ended when I was out for a Sunday drive. Not a lot of damage, but because of the coupe, they are planning on spraying and color sanding pretty much everything except the font fenders and hood. I have never had to get a classic repaired do to insurance. The other persons insurance seems to be coperating with the repair shop to get it back to how it was. Although we haven't finalized the bill yet. Any special things I should be considering asking of the other drivers insurance company? What has been your issues with getting the insurance to get it right. If they don't agree to pay to get it right, should I threathen a law suit? Thanks for any insight. Dan

Mine does the same thing. Added the bump steer kit and realigned. Still does it. Is rack and pinion the only way to get ride of it? ps I have 245x45x17's

Mine does the same thing. Added the bump steer kit and realigned. Still does it. Is rack and pinion the only way to get ride of it? ps I have 245x45x17's

Sort of related. Do you think the 9" slicks will be enough traction? What power/drivetrain do you have. I am looking to buy some slicks and can't decide what will be enough to get some good grip. Thanks, Dan

Sort of related. Do you think the 9" slicks will be enough traction? What power/drivetrain do you have. I am looking to buy some slicks and can't decide what will be enough to get some good grip. Thanks, Dan

Mine is on the passenger side. I had to work it in.

Did you drive the car back and get the windshield installed Monday? Good advice mikem, also there are those little foam pieces that need to go inder the cowl before you install it. Were your hood and doors aligned by the paint shop? Just wondering how they might have done it without the cowl installed

2.5 MagnaFlow SS w/hooker ceramic comp headers. Mine didn't fit off the headers. Had to have an exhaust shop cut and weld the front section. Had to move brake line also. Agree with 70Mach03 on the sound and performance. I think they sound very nice.

I use the Valvoline VR1 Racing oil in my 302 with the Edelbrock performer rpm top end package so far so good (big cam, car shakes pretty good at idle, probably should have gone smaller). The engine shop that broke the cam in and dyno'd my engine uses some special oil that is really high in zinc. I will see if I can get info on it from him. He had me leave his oil in for the first 500 miles. then I swithced to the VR1. Anyone else use the VR1 and any issues with using it? Would you still use and additive as well?

Andy, In order to remove or install the front coil springs you will need a spring compressor. Our local Schucks store will rent it to you for free. They take a deposit and then refund it when you bring it back. Check with your local parts store as they probably offer something similar. Hope this helps dan

Mine were just connected via the two screws on the outer edges that connect the side piece. I did put window seal around the top of window rubber piece like was suggested in the assembly manual. Before the seal had a chance to set up I put, the top piece in to ensure it would not cause the trim piece to be forced out and not fit properly. When do you get your car back from paint? Hope this helps Dan

There are two different rings. The inner ring in your second picture looks like the ring that holds the headlight in position. http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=93015B+01&Category=&catkey=EMUSTANG The other looks to be the outer trim ring. I ordered one from MU and it too was too big. I ended up going to a salvage yard and finding one. http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=93064+01&Category=&catkey=EMUSTANG Not sure if this is the same part you have. The headlight retainers are a bear to put on because of the way they hook on the spring. Hope this helps. Dan

If you were 180 out, the engine would not start. You may want to take your #1 plug out and double check tdc and check your pointer and mark. On my new balancer, there are three different sets of timing marks.

Pak, right on the money. Nothing beats sound and feel of a v8. Mikem, It won’t increase your hp, but 3.25-3.55 rear gears will increase the feel of torque considerable and let your engine get up in the hp range, especially when you get on it. I would consider that first because if you build the engine the way you think you want, you will need different gears anyway. If you really want a street able 300rwhp out of a 302, you will have a challenge. We took our 302 bored it 30 over, forged SRP pistons, had the bottom end balanced, put the Edlebrock rpm performer package, big cam here (a lot of rumble), 750cfm carb, long tube headers, magnaflow 2.5 stainless exhaust, a built c-4 with 3000 stall converter and 3.55 rear gears. Edlebrock says 375 at the engine. We did two dyno’s, we hit the numbers on the engine dyno, but on a chassis dyno, we were only 285hp at 5500rpm. We drive it as a daily driver and it seems to do ok, but it really is rough at idle, 850rpm, in gear, which is high. The mirrors shake considerably. That being said, you cannot floor this thing from a dead stop without breaking the rear wheels loose.