70fastbak

Lol, really.

Paid 2k for my MSD.

I used a cheap pair of wheel spacers to check everything on my car for proper fit. Now im wanting to buy the ones I plan on running on the car. Are you guys using hubcentric or lugcentric. Seems to be a big difference in pricing, are the ones on ebay for 60 bucks any good. Just want to make sure I don't get cast ones or anything that will fail. Any thoughts?

I had the MSD atomic EFI on a 88 saleen with a 418 CI motor. I thought it was excellent, so easy to use with like 8 wires to connect. It learns as you drive it, you can set the fuel ratios with a simple scroll through the menu and adjust as your driving it. Sold the car to fund my 70 project. Updates are easy to do also, go onto MSD website put a camera memory card into your computer download update on it then go to car plug the memory card in the handheld device and upload, done.

If the roller perches don't sell I will take them.

Hey guys I have a really nice 70 sport mirror. I bought this for $60 off ebay, really nice shape but the remote lever is missing and I broke a cable while I was lubricating and moving the mirror around. Thought id throw it up on here and see if there was any interest. I thought it would be a great mirror for somebody who wants to do a power mirror conversion. I have also heard that the cables can be fixed, although its a PITA from the looks of it. I ended up finding one locally, so I have this up for sale if anybody is interested. I will eat some $ and let it go for $50 if anybody wants it. I have no pics to post but can email or text pics. Shoot me a PM.

I just went and looked at my brackets and they look nothing like the ones in your pic. Mine where bolted to the other forward hole in your pic. My car is a 302 A/C car.

Those lower brackets look weird. Im not 100% sure but I seem to remember the hole forward of the bracket your using is where the bracket screwed in place.

Yes, that's the bracket im talking about. Thanks guys.

If anybody can see any holes that could be welded up plz let me know because id like to weld up everything im not going to need. I gave up on guessing and it was getting late just wanted to get primer on her before I called it a night.

Im going to keep all future updates in this posting to make it easier. Should have done that in the first place, oh well. Anyways couple more pics of the front end completed. Did a little filler work on the shock towers, welded a few holes up in the aprons and got a coat of epoxy on her.

What is the little bracket that sit on the firewall lip with three holes in it for. It sits on the drivers side in the engine compartment. I still have this on my old firewall that is in my scrap pile, do I need it before I scrap all my metal?

I think in any bad enough collision there would be nothing you can bolt into it that would stop fuel leakage. I do like the idea myself, it will give some protection to the occupants. Seems a little spendy if you ask me, Id make my own before I paid that kind of money.

Using 2" lowered leafs. I installed new full quarters and outer wheel tubs and decided to roll the lips also just in case I decided to use some big rubber back there, glad I did. I am putting in a one piece floor also and while I have the floor out I am going to massage the lower front inner wheel tub and cut the new floor accordingly.

Forgot to mention wheel size. Its a 2004 deep dish mach 1 rim, 17x10.5"

Not sure what you can squeeze in there with a mini tub. Without mini tubs I'm squeezing a 315/35 17 wheel has 6.9 backspacing and 27mm offest. Rear lips are rolled.

Forgot about the floor. Plan for the floor is a dynacorn one piece which I just got lucky on. Guy on craigslist has a bunch of parts for 69-70 he got bored with the project and sold it but kept lots of sheet metal and interior parts. So I bought his one piece floor for $250 and went for it myself, 20 min drive so no $180 shipping fee. Somebody else just left before I got there and took a bunch of stuff that I would have bought also. He bought the rear wing, brand new rear louvers, console, interior trim panels and a Shelby style roll bar, got there 30 mins too late.

I have a super nice original drivers remote mirror...but One of the remote cables has snapped, is it possible to fix these or is it just time to start looking for another? Seems like you have to have all 3 cables good to be able to have a glass that wont move around during driving.

Yea, I personally find working with fiberglass hoods is easier and done right they look just as nice. The 67 Shelby im working on turned out really nice. After adding 1/8" on the sides and back to get the gap nice using a special filler made specifically for corvettes and then high build n block, then once again, turned out nice. Not wavy at all.

Thanks for the info guys, I will go with a dynacorn hood I think.

If you were local I'd buy it from you. I need a 70 hood.

Anybody running aftermarket hoods and how did you find the fit. Im also considering the fiberglass cowl hood that CJ's sell so if anybody is using that id be interested in how that fits also.

Heresacoupleofo show you how it sits in the wheelwell. I do have my lips rolled also.

Hey zippo, My wheels are not the same as mtylers but he was one of the guys on here that kinda persuaded me (just by looking at is car and how it sat) to go with 315's on my car also. Im running 2004 deep dish mach 1 rims on mine and I also did not mini tub just a little modifying of the forward edge of the inner wheelwheels was all it took. The specs on my rears are 10.5" rim, 6.9 backspacing with 27mm offset, running a 1" spacer.

Can anybody tell me what all the holes are for on this apron I just got installed. I decided to weld up as many holes as I can. The only ones I know are the two that are next to each other on the oval embossed section, brake block.