Jump to content

larryc94

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    204

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by larryc94

  5. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Mike65 said:

    ??? When I view the thread I can see the pic I posted.

    Yea not showing  up,  but I think the rivets of original poster are regular pop rivets and not ones Ford used.

    I'd vote for vin tag changed and aprons restamped.  I might be wrong but I thought the drivers side vin was stamped on the apron and not the shock tower

  10. Posted · Report reply

    No, the "620" springs are a stiffer than stock.

     

     They're called "620" because the wire size of the spring is 0.620", they are rated at 560 lb.  They also lower 1" and by using the 65-66 spring which is 1" shorter than the 67-70 spring you get 2" lower stance.

     

    They're other springs for a 65-66, GT and I guess standard.  I can only answer for the springs I used and are very happy with the outcome.

     

    I took a gamble with this setup and usually stuff like this doesn't work out.  The only problem I had was originally used a 1/4" poly spacer and the spring would become loose when on a lift or jacked with the wheel hanging.

     

    That I couldn't put up with every time you lift it you have to make sure the spring is seated (this no ricer).  By switching to a 3/4" poly spacer it was just right that spring stayed put

     

    Larry

  11. Posted · Report reply

    That's what I have on a '70.  using 65-66 "620" springs which are 560 lb uncut, 3/4' poly spacer with roller perches

     

    Like the stance and it rides great, can take speed bumps at like 10 mph no problem.  I wish the rear would absorb as good as the front

     

    Soaks up wash board roads

     

    Don't understand why this combo is not more popular, I discovered it in a Mustang plus catalog a couple of years ago.

     

    Lot of people say "620" springs are harsh, they usually cut coils to get the right stance.  They ride great if you don't cut them

     

    Larry

    post-38071-0-84384200-1488330647.jpg

    post-38071-0-61403700-1488331111.jpg

  16. Posted · Report reply

    From the pix the shaft is not collapsed because the rub mark on the shaft line's up with the end.  It shows the column was not centered.  The firewall plate is adjustable to center the column

     

    Your problem is the mounting for the column is slotted a the upper clamp  and there is a clamp at the fire wall plate.  Loosen  the column upper bolts and fire wall plate and slide the column down.

     

    If the inner collapsible shaft slides the pins are broken and a future source of play and or knocking/rattle.

     

    Larry

    RPM reacted to this

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Hi LarryC, can you describe how well your electric setup drives and where you got it/type? I have heard that these setups can also have return to center issues because of the way they function, however since newer cars come with them maybe this is not true. Anyway I have been thinking about electric steering for quite a while as I am unhappy with my Borgeson. Too bad no one makes a manual steering box with a quicker ratio, that would be awesome.

    I did the Equinox-Vue conversion, I like it, it's much tighter than the factory P/S.   Underhood and steering linkage is cleaner looking and no leaks.

     

    The return is not bad, one thing that helps is to use a stock idler with the rubber bushings. You have to install the OEM rubber bushing idler with the wheels straight ahead, as you go left or right the bushing twists and wants to go back to center.  Ford designed it that way and if you use a roller arm you change the way Ford designed it.

     

    Larry

  20. Posted · Report reply

    For a 1969 Mustang, look under the dash of a car with a manual trans.  There is no room for an electric setup. ons slight

    There is, may not look like but does fit, I have a '70.  Also have clutch to deal with, one piece has to be omitted, the brace from lower right booster stud to bottom of dash that has 3/8th sheet metal screw in the bottom of dash.  Motor clocked at 4:00.

     

    Had factory P/S, gone are the leaks and the slop of the control valve.  Have assist at idle and in fact have assist with key on engine off

  21. Posted · Report reply

    I used Grabber-trac springs in my car and what I did to get poly spacer to fit upper shock tower was to heat them up with a heat gun.

     

    Originally used the 1/4" ones and switched  to  3/4" ones and both needed heat to fit

     

    Removed them a couple months later to do other work and where fine and fit without any extra work.

     

    Larry

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I'm going to guess they dipped it in a solution that dissolved that piece.  It's pot metal and will not come out unless you open the tabs to separate the latch

     

    That latch is ruined.  Only way to fix it is find another latch to harvest that part and bend the tabs back to install.

     

    I just installed a Scott Drake electric remote release kit.  For 2 reasons, my fire extinguisher is in the trunk and don't have to worry about keys scratching the gas cap, works great

     

    Larry

    Raven R code reacted to this
×
×
  • Create New...