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larryc94

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Posts posted by larryc94

  2. Posted · Report reply

    In that link there a banner for Wheel Vintique, I guess there just advertising for them.  Maybe there just renting space in Cokers building

     

    PROUDLY MADE IN AMERICA SINCE 1986.

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    MADE IN AMERICA
    Since 1986, Wheel Vintiques has been manufacturing steel wheels for restored classics, muscle cars and hot rods. All manufacturing processes are handled in house, at our facility in City of Industry, California.
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    TRUE O.E. FITMENT
    Wheel Vintiques manufactures wheels for many applications, and offers authentic O.E. fitment for high quality restorations. Precise sizing and single bolt patterns make our O.E. wheels the best on the market.
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    CUSTOM SIZING
    Along with direct O.E. fitment, Wheel Vintiques offers custom sizing in many of our wheels. Larger diameters and wider overall widths are available, and custom backspacing is available on most wheels.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    5 hours ago, stangs-R-me said:

    Thanks for the EPS details & pic Larry !!

    I've got 4-Speed and A/C and have been eyeing up the EPAS Perfomance kit that Stangaholics sells with the already modified Ididit Tilt column.   I like the idea of a simpler bolt in / plug & play set up and gaining the tilt function is a bonus ... plus I'd rather not modify my original column that I recently rebuilt/restored and painted with the correct charcoal metallic.    Figured I'd buy the kit with the unfinished column that way I can paint it with the correct paint.  

    I apologize for helping derail this Magnum 500 thread !!

    Doug  

    I still have my original column untouched and waited till I found a column on CL for $75 to start the project.  Figured if It didn't work out could always go back my original back..options..options

  6. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Machspeed said:

    Larry, what's up with the 69 steering wheel in your car?

    That's what came with my car 29 yrs ago.  Some guy's have cars that have a "pedigree" well that's not mine and if cars could talk it would be some story it could tell.

    The wheel was in good shape I think only 2 cracks and the pad was perfect so I restored the wheel and came out great.  Maybe I'll come across a '70 wheel for a good price. 

    On facebook somebody was looking for a great condition '69 wheel. and had '70 wheel to trade.  His was not equal to mine so I wanted $$ and never heard back

     

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I have the Equinox with the Bruno box, manual and no a/c.  It's clocked about 3:30-4:00.  I had to remove the dash brace that connects to the right booster stud and has a sheet metal screw to the lower dash.  It's like above the gas pedal.

    I don't think it does much because the lower dash is strengthened by the column.  Be honest didn't think it would fit there but it does. It's the only place I had

    I think on a '69 you may have more options because the column to dash bracket I think is a little smaller.

     

    Right now I'm lookin at '80 to maybe '91 Bronco/F-150 tilt columns w/floor shift that I think I could mod to fit the EPS.  Our car's are not very ergonomic and and I did the TMI first version of sport seats.  I lessened the distance from steering wheel to seat.  It has a very slight larger bolsters,  If I didn't tell someone they look stock.  TMI came out with Sort seats II because the version I have is just a slight difference from stock

     

    May sound stupid but I can't get into the mustang like most new cars.  If I do my right leg gets jammed between seat and steering wheel.  So I sit sideways in the seat with my both legs outside the car and the swing my legs in.

     

    Getting out I put my left hand on the sill plate and pivot out

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  9. Posted · Report reply

    On 1/4/2018 at 3:22 PM, Machspeed said:

    Larry, I think I may have spoken to you in the past....do you have electric steering on your car?

    BTW, owned a 70 Grabber Blue Mach that was loaded with every option you could have put on the car back then.....351C, Toploader trans, shaker, spoiler, slats, folddown rear seat, dual gauge console, etc. Regrettably sold that car to my brother whom  ended up trading it off for an old Ford truck and a Mustang II. Jeez, what was I thinking.     

     

    Yes to EPS

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Drilled and tapped the hole.

    Line is black but did check it one time after car was shut for 10 min and popped gas cap and see fuel spitting  out into the filler neck

    The "P" trap thing was perpetrated elsewhere and yes fuel will be in the line, but you have pressure or vacuum acting on it.

    In your house the P trap doesn't impede flow because of the pressure pushing it, same here but you can have vacuum too.

    The CC vent is not an atmospheric vent.  If it was then the P trap scenario would affect it

    The problem somebody had was they tried to repurpose a vent line back to the tank that had a built in restrictor.  And every time he got stuck he blow the line through pushing fuel pass the restrictor, and it worked till the line filled again.

    Some of the GM cars do have a line you can use but you have check it for restriction.  If you can blow thru it free it's good to use, if not you'll end up with the problems he had

    One thing he posted his problems on many forums so hence the wide spread problem

  12. Posted · Report reply

    4 minutes ago, Vicfreg said:

    Hi Larry, thanks a lot for your insights.  I have a couple questions about the FiTech install.  The first one is easy, which is where did you put your O2 sensor?   I am using shorty headers and am thinking I can put it in a transition pipe downstream of the collector.  The second question is about the darn vent.   I have seen endless opinions about if/where/how to run the FCC vent line.  I plan to do that, and was thinking I would run a line parallel to my fuel supply line, back to the tank, and install a threaded bung on my fuel filler neck to run it to.  What was your approach for this?

     

     

    I have the O2 right after the bend where the H pipe is horizontal.  The vent line I ran is  1/4 nylon fuel line with these clips http://www.quickclips.org/home/ and used a 1/8npt x1/4 barbed fitting screwed into the filler neck

  13. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    I agree that's a beautiful car Larry, with a perfect ride height.  I reviewed the CJPony video about the 4.5 Scott Drake mid eyes. He says they are intended for light duty use on 64.5 to 66 six cylinder cars, or on V8s for a softer ride. I'm just wondering if you get  wheel hop? Of course we need to know more about your drive train also- are you making good HP or is it more of a cruiser?

    My Mach is currently completely stock and only a 351w 2V, but it lights up the tires and hops all over the place in second gear. I intend to improve the HP considerably and will need to stiffen-up my rear springs. Your help is greatly appreciated. 

    It's a 351c with 4v CC heads, rpm airgap manifold, Fitech EFI, Crane 222/234 duration, .534/.539 lift, roller rockers and Sanderson shorty headers.  I'm thinkin 350 hp at least.  Yea will light up tires pretty easy.

    The SD  mid-eye rear springs are 4.5's, the half leaf in on top and in front to prevent wheel hop, Opentraker sells the exact SD spring.  Also the 3.70 rear is a trac-lok and frame connectors

    Probably could have got reverse eye and wouldn't needed the 1" blocks.  I felt if I got the reverse eye and was too low I'd SOL.  With the mid-eye I could add or remove blocks to get it where I wanted.  Have  KYB Gr2,s all around.  I can't stress enough how the front handles and takes bad washboard roads

    Mach1 Driver reacted to this

  16. Posted · Report reply

    22 hours ago, shelbyshelby said:

    Larryc94, with 235/60-15, is rubbing an issue front or back? Do you remember the the back space and the rim size, 15x7?

    They are 15x7 and 4.25 BS.   I have a bit of unusual set up, the front springs are "620's" for a 65-66 which are 1" lower than a 67-70 spring.  So 1" shorter  because 65-66+ 1" shorter because 620's are 1" lower+2" lower.  Guy's usually end up cutting the 67-70 spring because it's to high, with setup no need to cut springs and springs works as designed.  Use 3/4 poly spacer on top spring to tower.  If I used 1/4"poly spacer the springs became loose when jacked up or put on a lift.  The 3/4" keeps spring in place.

     

      Springs are not cut and have roller perches, it sit's as low as it can with out effecting ride or bottoming out.  It rides really well can take speed bumps at like 5-10 mph.  fenders not rolled and and no hint of rubbing.  The tires front and rear are tucked

     

    Have the Shelby drop with  -0.75* camber and  3.2* caster

     

    Rear have SD 4.5 mid eye with 1" blocks.  The back only has  about 3" clearance between rear and bumper.  The back will hit the stop on good dip but not touching 1/4 or wheelhouse

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  17. Posted · Report reply

    I have a RPM airgap on 351c with a command center for 2 years, I've been in parades , stuck in traffic in 90* temps and never had a problem.  The command center is not modified.  The dual plane runs fine and with a 3.70 rear and 5 sp it's always in the power band and just pulls.  I also have the dreaded 4v cc heads, if you run the correct cam it has ton's of low end

  19. Posted · Report reply

    On 5/13/2016 at 7:27 AM, larryc94 said:

    It's not a question of over or under thinking, it should be vented back to the tank.  Them calling it a vent is a poor choice of words.

     

    This has been discussed on different forums,where it's been reported that guys have attached a catch can and gone for a ride and collected a cup of fuel.

     

    The needle and seat in the CC is the Holley adjustable type.  What happen when dirt or what ever reason they stick happens.  Well in your case you'll have fuel pouring on the ground under your car, you won't know till you smell it or some one points it out to you.  With a carb it usually starts dumping out the vent and down the venturi and the engine stalls.

     

    Like  I said I've seen fuel spit out the vent after the car sat for 10 mins or so popping the gas cap and peering in where the vent enters the filler neck.

     

    FiTech is giving you the warning about the "vent line" to protect you and themselves.  If you have a mishap and your car burns your insurance may not cover you losses because you installed it improperly according to the manufactures instruction and warning

     

    Larry

     

    On 5/13/2016 at 8:51 PM, larryc94 said:

    Just make sure you have fire insurance.  

    I stand by what I posted

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Your right about Coker buying Wheel Vintique and Specialty.  Last year I replaced my 28 yr old Specialty Mag 500's, I got the Wheel Vintique mag 500's from CJ's with new tires mounted and balanced.  They ride good and are smooth to 95-100 mph.

     

    I also looked at the aluminum version and the features and shine are different. I know I wouldn't be happy because they just don't look right. I know everybody has the chrome mag 500 but it is a great looking wheel IMHO.

    Also I'm not a fan of the "wagon wheel look" on a classic, I have to see some tire.  I have 235/60-15 all around and my car is lowered so the wheels are "tucked"

     

  25. Posted · Report reply

    One of the problems with the setup is there are too many connections (I count about 9 and your allowed .2v each).   I had 11.5v at the horns and they would not work.  If I jumped direct to the battery they work.  Solution is to install a relay which it should of  had in the first place and use the horn circuit to activate the coil side of the relay.

     

    Power the relay with a fuse off the positive battery lug of the soleniod

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